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ok dude my bad.

stop using 98 O and octain tablets and the pinging should go away, if you havent done damage already. your fuel is about 100 O atm and its only ment to handel 95 O at most assuming it is a stock 4k-c motor with 9:1 compression to 9.5:1 compression but if its a 3k than you have really gone and done it because a 3k-c only has 8.5:1 compression so don't even use 94 O. 8.5:1 to 9.3:1 comp use 91 O. 3K 4K. 9.3:1 to 9.5:1 comp use 94/95 O. NOTE 94 O IS SHIT, ITS CUT BAD. 4K 5K over 9.5:1 to 10.1:1 use 98 O. 5k over 10.1:1 use 100 O and a heavy foot. :S well faced 3k 4k 5k 11.5 and over you will need to fill ap at the local airfield, AV GAS YEAAR. :) crazzy k 19.0:1 and over use nitro and a fule shut off valve. :) stuffed if i know, man with death wish.

i don't know if any use are from the south of adelaid hear but i live in a plase caled seaford SA and there is this little area full of sheds that people rent out, like a home, you come and go as you pleas no mater what time and these are no small sheds, I'm talking you can park 6 city busses in 1 of these f@$kers. they don't have a hoyst just about 6 R32/33/34 skylines and a few USA V8 monsters. don't have a clue what it would cost but 1 like that devided by 6 or so people and you do the math. if all six payed $75-$125 a week i don't think an empty shed would cost more than $500-$600 a week. it would be sweet to do, just bring tools and split the bill and have new people each month or so as the cars get finished and moove on to the road. :S

my eyes hurt mummy :S. na thats really really good shit that is, that would silence a lot of people i know about the turbo bit just near the end and well i guess about the whole thing would too. thats the most interesting thing iv been happy to sit through and reed and not be pist off about at the end. GOLD. shane'0

if i can lay the paint down in time I'm IN.

what are you porting, what part??

YEA like me, i don't know if the orange i found is the same as the ke55's used but it said "from 1978-1981" in the TOYOTA modle paint, so it helped me out heaps but it would be good if it had a pick of the colour to see if the shade of it is right.

may i sugest cutting out the old rusty bits as you might know, pressure clean the f@$k out of it and spray the whole thing in that spray tarry stuff, if they do check it what would be the chance of hitting one of the newly welded up bits lol. your from adelaid right, is the car defected or somethin? or is this a first time through moto rego dick people place at beach road lol.

sweet now alls i have to do is buy a new valve clamp, my old one was left outside for a few weeks when i lost it and it rusted up and went all shit on me lol.

i also have a cracked 4k-u head, the dished piston type head, would these have 5k spring in them cos a 5k sometimes has dished pistons so does anyone know the fact behind this? point is if they are the same than sourly the 5k springs will fit in a 4k.

Yes, i will be ceeping a work loge of my work, essentially for my own future reference, not to be shared with the disorderly, chaotic aregance of those people from last nights episode of "dip shits guode to the universe", followed by "lets all shit on the little guy because we can". Do any of you people from last night even have the slightest clue who Chip Foose or Boyd Coddington even are?. You can take your SR20DET and all that other shit, and re-convert it to your asswhole, its not even a toyota after you do that, you just did a heart transplant on it tool, you just plebbe rapped a perficty good and soon to become a historic toyota corolla, go buy yorself a bloody holden and leave the good rolla parts for those who really need them, and be done with it ok and leave the original idea work to the people who have A CLUE about whats been done over and over and over an choose to brake out of that f@$ked up little box you people call, "SR20DET into Ke20 or CA18DET into Ke30", but clearly arnt that smart to find the way out of the box through the dam door, so i come along with mi ideas and you all have a f@$k fit for hours and get nothing foe it. so my answer after all this is NO!. This is my work, I'm doing it my way and I'm not going to post a full loge of my work for use to pull it all apart infront of my eyes. and when its all done il sit back, light a smoke and say "to those of you hwo ever doubted me, f@$k you all" and lough my nuts off ok. I tried to be reasonable about all this but use pushed the wrong button on me so now you don't get S F A... I'll reply when its done. Shane'0

unless you have something to say about the real topick at hand, get off of this post and just PM each other and stop flooding it with irrelevant talk about irrelevant facts...

suit your selvs, there is nothing stoping me from doing this, and making a few more kits, as for when its finished i might consider posting a pick or 2, but with no real info of course. :no2: consider this post closed with no further information from me as of now. there will be no finished product info on this when its done, just a cupple of dodgy pick of me working. :yes: good day people. :poke: shane'0... :D

you think this is easier than a sr20det ah hahaha what about all the engeneers reports and everything needs to be worked. leest my way looks stock and cops wont pick on me! FYI! I'm NOT DOING THIS FOR THE POWER DUDE. f@$k me six ways from sunday don't you get it yet and its for the people who might like to put the twin side drafts on later cos they don't have that kind of cash. shit if you aint got nothing good to say don't say nothing at all, pleas, you just make it so negative + i don't have $2000 for a nissan front cut + a new diff and suspension units. and you say my way is harder. noobe! as for the diagram from felix that does help me out so thanks i can see the position of the oil pick up so i only have to drope that an inch of so. and careful what you say about the K motor, you will upset a lot of K lovers so yea...

3rd time! the oil pick up will be cut ra ra ra ra and extended ra ra ra ra on a 90deg angel ra ra ra ra to reach the bottom of the sump ra ra ra ra. next question. pleas. and if you think I'm doing thr the extra power than I'm sorry but your sadly mistaken as the info that i have read and i highly dought it said "10-30hp increas WITHOUT THE TWIN SIDE DRAFT CARBS". I'm expecting something like 1.0 or less hp not bhp ok. my next and main point is i don't like my engine bay and love the idea of a vertical engine, i look at a slant engine and its just so 40's style, time to bring the old age into the new age, it don't have to make you happy love.

felix could you pleas read my post from the start, it is full of detailed info. i said i would face the intake manyfold 90 deg to the carbie port!!!! "custom, custom, custom". and the good reason is to stop the pistons from trying to shoot 30deg through the block at 8000+RPM and grinding the rings away. also and i quote cos it happened to me doing 360's, oil is forced to the back of the head and sump so you do the math:owned:

all this has been calculated people. the oil pick up pipe will be cut of from the lowest point if it is 1 of the newer types, and will have a stiff rubber hose and 4 clamp on it to extend the unit to reach the oil. if it is one of the older types that i have 2 of with the 2 pipes that are curved and have a little filter on the end, just cutt it all off and extend it all and put the little filter back on the end of it with a few hose clamps and silicon. the sump itself wont have to be moded in any way, shape or form. i did explain all this first up 2 times people. the extractors, well thats a little problem, not hard, by what i know the extractors themselvs will clear the fire wall but the exhaust pipe might need to have a little bend put in it. when i was first working on my car with the stock system i noticed that with your hands you can lift the whole lot up and twist it on a 45deg angel and it would only just hit the curve of the fire wall and the carbie was nearly as high as the bonet line without a filter so this wont need a lot of work. hence why this is all called "custom work". i can suply all mounting units for a good price but little things like that you people will have to do, and keep in mind not every sport exhaust system is the same. give me time and i will describe every little detail with a heap of picks and mm measurements for the people who are able to do the DIY. keep the questions coming...

my cross memberes will be twice as strong as the original ones + you wont have the room to have both options on the same cross member, too much re-enforcment. this kit wont cost a lot as well. between $100 and $150 promiss. and it will all be a bolt on thing that will take half a day to do. these are all good questions use are asking me so keep em coming, there are no bad questions on this post. :D

incorect. what do you do with the clutch cable it wouldnt go in a straight lint it would kink. or you would have to re-weld something like a new braket on to the engine block so hold the cable. my way you just bend the shift stick at the lowest point at a 30 degree angel so you can use 1st and 5th gear.

:D If all this does go as planed for me I was thinking of making a bunch of these kits witch would includ the 2 engine mounts that will bolt on to the cross member + rubbers and a full gearbox cross member with a 30 degree slant for the gearbox. MY DESIGN IS ONLY BASED ON A KE55, K50 STOCK GEARBOX!!! These parts will be all cleaned up and painted in matt black or gloss black. :P: Stand up and be counted if you would be interested in these parts just for an idea of interest. :) A price wont be decided untill i can gather all the info on the cost of steel, rubber, second hand and re-enforced cross member, other materials and the complicity of the build (labor). The price wont be too hi... :)

iv looked everywere for info on this. 4k have valve springs that are 70lb and 5k use 77lb springs, i can get 5k ones for free but want to know if they will fit in the 4k and 3k seats?. :D

I'm expecting all those things on my path.

like i said pice of piss even if i have to carve the rubber...

this is really sng do draw atention to you la ay. so tell me a little more about these engine mounts. are these the ones il need to coppy? do they use a rubber on it? why is one differant to the other? my plan was to make total custom mounts left and right and keep the engine as low as posible but 1/2" gap between the sump and the brace under it so as i don't damage something under reving upand down. my mounts will be simple and adgustable, just a little...

well just for giggles il just do that. il dyno a 4k stosk slant 30, than il do the 0 degree mods than dyno that without doing anything to the motor and il post that info up along with all the steps that i will take to make it stand upright. might be valuable info to some others in the future... il be starting all this work in about 4 weeks from now...