oke020

SR Rolla, You 'should' be able to see 280 RWHP with a black top running standard management and standard turbo, i have a standard s13 SR20DET in my wifes datsun 1200 ute, with factory ecu and 15 psi, decent IC and decent pipe work it ran up 238 RWHP, a 50 zex nitrous kit pushed that to 248 rwhp but really made the difference to the torque (hot side just physically cannot flow anymore i think) the s13 engine has the tiny t25g standard. With 238 RWHP in a 780kg car it runs consistently into the 12.6s, with more potential as we only use falken 205x45x16" tyres and 60' times are in the 2.2s, i scored a set of used 16" low profile circuit slicks, using the 50 kit from 2nd resulted in 11.9 @ 116, 1.9 60', this is still a factory engine, running factory management, starts first time every time and never misses a beat which i think is bloody awesome :) I would expect an 850kg car with 50 or so rwhp more would run similar numbers. You will need atleast a bosch 094 pump, i have tested a vl turbo pump but its not up to the job with anything more than 10psi. Also make sure you tap a barbed fitting into the shifter housing on the gearbox, i have found that they need a bigger breather as without one thay leak past the rear seal. Here is a Video of the 1200 ute in action.

Doesn't BLCJET use a 7M

Ouch man, just had a squiz at the pics :D You know you want to build a ke1x or ke2x wags with a ported 12a next :)

Yeah on the video the wheels do look huge, quite strange might be somthing to do with the dress rims? yep still uses ke30 front disks, at the moment it crosses the line at 200km/hr i usual keep accelerating for a bit after and it has no problems pulling up, would not like to try it more than a few time in a row though :)

yep it only did a 1.75 60' once on the second pass on the vid, probably due to running less boost as i forgot to hit sp2 on the eboost that run hense the boost peak recall only reading 14.7PSI for that run. Teddy, you can't thats why it is still the mustard colour and has 'authentic looking' steel wheels on it :) it is blue plated though i don't think it would hold much value if shit ever did happen.

Thought i might post up a vid of last time i ran it, full street trim, street tyres, first run i attempted to use the gas from 2nd gear, it ran 102.9 MPH to half track but the bloody thing spiked over 20 psi in 4th and cut out about 150ft from the line (you can see it pop out the exhaust) and only ran 121 MPH still a 11.2 though :P, next run was no gas and 14 PSI almost a perfect run, 1.75 60' and no missed gears still ran 11.2 :D OKE020 Video

Yeah i'd like to get told that its to fast then wave as i drive it home :P i will always drive it to and from the track. 135MPH is the parachute cutoff if you have drum brake rear, 140 MPH if you have disk brake rear as i do so no chute required yet, next upgrade (fund permitting) should see the need for one :D I will be running an auto from now on so will need a ballistic blanket on the auto to meet andra approval too, aswell as 1/2" wheel studs, harnesses, cage, andra approved seat (attached to cage somehow i've heard), 2 layer race suit, helmet, boots, all sounds like to much dollars and will wreck the car. Might just put street tyres back on it after this and try for a 10 again. Felix, i bought the KE10 from pro_ke, i have no pics yet but here are some from when alex owned it

Jamie - No panhard bar but i have everyhing pretty tight, the slicks are obviously only for straight line stuff and i will probably upgrade to 225's toyo ra1's for the street. I am happy that the 10mm shims won't cause to much extra loading on the bolts holding the springs in, would not like to go any further though and moving the hangers is not an option. I am off to the wreckers next week to find some econovan 4.5" rims for the front. Grimwolge - My jatco and convertor arrives next friday. Putting a tial 44m external gate on so i can control boost better as before with the nitrous on i was getting a 21 psi spike that would cause the microtech to shut down (20 psi max base unit) so i have never had a pass with the 50 gas kit on. So this time out i will have an auto, transbrake, slicks, better boost control and the nice cooling effect of n20 Previously the car managed an 11.2 @ 126 on street tyres in full street trim with a manual, you could say i am a tad keen to get this thing back to the track if it doesn't break in half it should achieve my goal. :P

sorry links fixed

Hey all, finished moving my leaf springs in 10mm today, a friend has changed the offset of some 14x7 ra40 celica rims and tacked them together so i can trial fit. It took a bit of messing around but i finally have them in place. Slick are 24.5 x 8 x 14, the buldge is the widest part at 258 mm wide, i should be able to get a 255 street tyre on the rear now too :D I have about 3 mm clearance to the leaf springs now, do you think i should change the offset by 4mm more and slightly scallop the springs? i am un decided of whether they still stick out to far? as it sits i should be able to roll the lips and not get any tire scrub, opinions please? last thing i want is a car that looks like the precise automatics corolla :P Modified shackle Modified front spring seat

Yes rotarollas are fun and yes they can surprise people :P , not any more trouble to fit than a piston engine conversion, ok maybe slightly more as depending on what car the tunnel may have to be raised a few inches. $$$$$ yes, depends how Fast you want to spend? :D

Easy problem to solve, put a rotary in your corolla :P

Jamie, was running the standard nikki 4 bbl, pretty good fuel economy actually, dependent on your right foot though, i had the usual conversion to mechanical secondaries so as soon as you buried the foot to much it started to chew. Had a play with a 5 series BMW one night on the highway, the driver stuck his nose up and tried to accelerate away from me, to cut a long story short i ended up in 5th at 8500 still sitting next to him while me and my mate where in fits of laughter :P i don't know what speed that equates to but at this stage the car was still 12a, had 155x12" tyres, standard suspension and standard brakes so it felt like warp factor 5 :D

I had a 253 KE20 Corolla once, i bought it from a friend as a roller, it used to have a pretty stout 308 in it, won archerfield burnout comps a few times. I had a fresh 253 bottom end and trimatic lying around so chucked it all in, i did not believe it all fit until i had it together, no firewall mods no tunnel mods (was auto body originally) the only thing i had to do was remove the factory bump in the firewall as i was using a vh-vk style distributor and they are bloody wide. It also had a shortened 10 bolt salisbury diff in it with 4.44:1 locked centre. i finished the car to the stage where i could start it (through 4-1 collectors :D ) and drive it back and forward, with a solid mount engine and only a measly 253 it was easy to get the car rocking hard on a throttle blip :P pretty cool but the neighbours didn't think so. The radiator was a shortened WB statesman unit and sat where the grill would sit normally, the grill was then spaced out and sat slightly beyond the end of the bonnet. Any way sh#t happened and i had to strip it for parts, never got to drive it so can't report on how bad it handled, it did however rip crazy fast donuts when my mate owned it so i guess it was a tad front heavy :) A friend bought the rolling shell from me, poor little thing has an RB20DET in it now, all mounted up and running as far as i know, just has to paint and trim it. It can't believe i don't have a bay shot :(

I'd go the 1G, its different, cheaper, sound better (in my opinion), on the money you save buying the much cheaper front cut you can afford aftermarket ECU, turbo upgrade etc. more gearbox options, more wow factor when the bonnet is up :(( I have seen well tuned 1G's make 350 + rwhp on standard internals reliably, that is more than enough power to get you into trouble in a ke55 :blinks:

13BT all the way, can add up in price, then there is always the engineering hassle :(( , i put a 12a 6 port into my KE20 when i first got it, good running engine and box cost me less than $500, i made the exhaust, crossmembers etc, tailshaft cost $90 to get modded, chuck in a holley blue pump and your away for less the 1k, it ran 15.3 @ 96MPH with the standard diff and 12" rims and 155 tyres so rotaries can be cheap too. Must say though the 1G looks the goods in that pic.