rob83ke70

money

anyone know the size of the valves in a 3k bigport head and/or the size of the valves in a normal 4kc head? the tosco manual says 37mm and 30mm for inlet/exhaust valve diameter but i'm assuming this is larger than a 3kb? Robert.

I think she meant an UPRIGHT k to upright t bellhousing, as opposed to a normal slanted k to upright t bellhousing, if that makes any sense? Robert.

vacuum leak or throttle nudger actually doing its job. probably vacuum leak though. spray hydrocarbons (brake cleaner or carby cleaner) around the manifold/head joints with the engine idling (not too warm though) and see if it does anything, if it stalls or picks up revs then you have a leak. best way i've found to seal manifold gaskets is to clean both surfaces thoroughly, and put a new gasket on coated both sides in silastic of your choice (the more expensive the better generally) and I used allen headed bolts (the O.D. of the bolt heads are the same as the genuine automotive spec 14mm head bolts, and they are readily available. this way (assuming bolts are correct length) there is no risk of the nut bottoming out on the stud or the bolt bottoming out on the thread and not squishing the gaskets tight. ignore the last paragraph if you don't have a vacuum leak. robert.

assuming a 4k is under the bonnet, my dream exhaust would be extractors, flex join, one or two perforated tube 2" resonators, a 2" straight through perforated tube muffler and a 2" angle cut chrome tip. people walk right past it without noticing, and when you take your car to a mechanic for registration they don't laugh at you behind your back :hmm: Budowski, I do like the look of that exhaust though :dance: Robert.

hear hear!! The first thing I did in terms of modifications was change the cam, and if I hadn't have done that, I probably would have been sorely dissappointed with both the exhaust and carburettor(s) upgrades. Probably still would have been happy with elec dizzy but not as dramatic an improvement. the 104 has 270 degrees of inlet duration, and not as much overlap as kylie's, hence the smoother idle. I like how it is described in the tighe cams catalog, "strong midrange". Pretty sure that would be what i'm after. Most of your driving in a daily is midrange, and even racing, especially motorkhanas and khanacrosses the midrange i'm pretty sure would be better than the outright power. I had a fella who raced speedway tell me that rather than pick the full race cam when he built an engine, he put a milder cam in it, and not only was it easier to tune and more reliable, but he was heaps quicker than other guys with the same size engine. They were all quite stumped and wanted to know what he did to his engine! Robert.

that explains why kylie's cam has a lopey lumpy idle, and the 104 has a relatively smooth idle. 104 has more lift though. shouldn't be too hard to tune a 4k with a 104 and twin aisans i hope :dance: Robert.

the thought of a single system scares me somewhat. I've only driven the one car without vac assist, and the brakes weren't overly brilliant on that, it was a morris 1100 sedan. I'm going to be the proud owner of a ke11 in the not too distant future, and I'm going to put ke70 front brakes on it, and probably a twin circuit system. The vac assist i will make up my mind when I get there. On the other side of the whole vac assist argument, I find some cars with too much vac assist somewhat scary as well, a peugeot 407 coupe fitted with a dt17bted4 twin turbo common rail v6 diesel has huge vacuum assist, and if it fails, you CAN'T pull the car up, I've tried, at 20km/hr you swing off the steering wheel and STAND on the brakes and it doesn't really pull up... Robert.

.050" valve timing inlet opens: 6 BTDC closes: 42 ABDC .050" duration: 228 exhaust opens: 47 BBDC Closes: 7 ATDC .050" duration 234 advertised valve timing inlet opens: 32 BTDC closes: 68 ABDC advertised duration: 280 exhaust opens: 73 BBDC closes: 33 ATDC advertised duration: 286 inlet lobe lift at TDC on overlap .070 crow cams 740 is what it was called. quite a few years ago now :D at 0.050" lift i have a whopping 13 degrees overlap, if i look at the advertised specs then i have 65 degrees overlap. visualising it all in your head is a bit confuzzling but possible. try visualising the valve/crank timing events of a four stroke inline three cylinder engine in your head and working out when the exhaust pulses happen!! Robert.

i'm slightly confuzzled still, kylie's cam has 13 degrees overlap but has a mad lumpy idle to it, but the tighe 104 seems to have a smooth idle (a bit more interesting than stock, but definitely not lumpy) and it runs 50 degrees of overlap? kylie's cam starts to work properly at 2500rpm with max torque probably around 4000rpm and max power around 6500-7000rpm. with the twin carbies on it (and 4-2-1 extractors) it is quite streetable and smooth to drive. with the downdraught weber it was lumpy under 2500. I'm not after a really lopey idle, and I want something with really really REALLY punchy midrange. Robert.

specifications are confuzzling.... the tighe 104 theoretically has more overlap than kylie's does, maybe kylie's idles funny because the timing is advanced a degree (in the grind)?? the 104 doesn't sound very lumpy at all compared to kylie's cam. kylies is at least as lumpy as nick's, but in the specs i mentioned above it doesn't seem to have that much overlap? I have my suspicions that kylie's car may perform a lot better with a different cam. Crow cams seem to make things that sound lumpy but don't perform quite as well as other company's grinds. Anyone else have thoughts on this? I'm thinking i'm going to go with the 104 for my 4k. A 5k still seems to be a bit much hassle (engine capacity, engineering cert, and the whole hyd lash adjusters and dished pistons) whereas a 4k is a nice simple thing (to me anyway). Robert.

the wrong brake fluid apparently eats things in master cylinders, toyotas seem to run a dot 3, NOT a dot 3&4 compatible fluid. seems pedantic, but we have been using either toyota genuine (dear as sin, as are all toyota bits) or valvoline dot3 (blue) fluid. We had a grj120r prado with the same problem, couldn't get an aftermarket master cylinder or rebuild kit, and genuine one was poisonous, around $780 i think, if i remember right. Robert.

only what i've seen in photos, vh44 remote booster mounted on passenger's side of firewall seems to be the go. thats about all the info i'm good for at the moment though. robert.

Can I start the whole camshaft discussion up again? what camshaft are you running in your 4k and why? what does it idle like, how does it drive, do you race it, what carburettors/exhaust/cr are you running? I have noticed in the faq that the tighe 104 apparently does not have an agressive or lumpy idle. I'm assuming that this is because the inlet opens at the same time the exhaust closes rather than having them overlap? anyone running this cam who can shed some light on the subject? Kylie's cam is quite lumpy sounding, it runs 228/234 inlet/exhaust duration at .050" with the inlet opening at 6 degrees, closing at 42 degrees, exhaust opening at 47 degrees and closing at 7 degrees, 1 degree advance ground on cam. not quite sure why this idles lumpy when the inlet opens a degree after the exhaust closes? lift at valves is .4007" and lash is set at 0.014/0.016", if I go any less, the compression at idle drops really badly. I'm planning on building a 4k with twin aisan 3kb carburettors, and its going to be a daily driver and race car, and I'm trying to work out what cam profile to use. Thinking about the tighe 104 but I just want some input into the matter. I want something with really really good midrange. Its going in a ke11 and going to be as light as I can make it as well :D Robert.

hey I've been poking around the wide wide web for a little while, and I haven't really come up with anything conclusive. I'm going to be building another K motor, in all likelihood another 4k, which will be going in a ke11. I have a set of 3k-b twin carburettors and manifold sitting on the shelf in the house, and I'm intending on using these, which brings me to my questions: I know a 3k bigport head has bigger ports than a standard 4k, and a smaller combustion chamber (higher compression ratio). I haven't come across anything conclusive about the valves. Does a 3k bigport head have bigger size valves than a standard 3k/4k cylinder head? I'm told the combustion chamber is a "canted oval" instead of a "wedge" as well, what exactly does a "canted oval" look like? basically, is it a huge drama to machine a 4k head to 3k bigport specs? what exactly are the specs, what exactly do I need to get machined? I have the twincarb manifold sitting next to a single carb manifold on the shelf and I can see that the ports are noticably bigger :D I would assume the exhaust ports would be bigger as well. I'm more than likely going to have to get a set of 4:1 extractors made as well, as soon as I work out the correct length. Seems like a bit of trouble to go to, but based on how kylie's 4k turned out, its definitely worth it to put a lot of thought and planning into how it will all go together. Robert.

and... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELUeGaXRGqM

a bit of a blast from the past! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHfHs2qpaSM

We do have that option in NSW. One of our mates went for it and he didn't make it, now he's lost his licence for either 6 or 12 months. Red P's are 3 points, green are 6 and fulls are 12. And you can sit on 0 points

Anyone out here who is a bigger nerd than I am? Just wondering if anyone can explain to me how to tell the difference between a mercedes vito 109cdi and a vito 115cdi? Can't find it written on the vehicle anywhere!! I'm normally pretty good at finding out these nerd type things such as model numbers and variants but this is a bit beyond me!! :hmm: Robert.

Speaking of oil filters... has anyone changed an oil filter on a Daihatsu Copen?

I got a nikon d60, it's sort of bottom to middle of the range and good value for money, but hey I don't have a tonne of cash to splash around. It's 10.2 mp, and has that vibration thingo that gets rid of the dust off the lens. Why's tafe lame? Where do you go to tafe at?

From what I can gather, I will need struts off a celica/supra ra60 or ma61, and modify the spring mounts/stub axle angle to suit. Then I will use the standard celica/supra ventilated discs and calipers, and get the bore size increased in the master cylinder to 13/16", and THEORETICALLY all this will work... I will need to use the steering arms off the celica/supra as well, and the tie rod end should fit it? Are the steering arms the same for a corona as they are for celica/supra? how much different are they to the corolla ones in terms of length/shape? Robert

Hey Anyone out there with an rt142 corona, can you tell me if the brakes are solid disc or ventilated? I was looking at an ra65r celica the other day and it seemed very very similar to the rt142 corona, and it had ventilated front discs. My thoughts were that I should get corona/celica discs, calipers, struts and modify the strut to take the ke55 spring platform and springs and strut tops, then fit them to the ke55 (the ball joint should be identical) so I have ventilated front discs. Are the steering arm holes to mount on the strut the same on a ke55 and rt142/ra65r? I would like to keep the ke steering arms. I may need coilovers and adjustable strut tops to correct the camber, or failing that it is possible to bend the stub axle a bit to correct the camber I am told. There seems to be a distinct lack of specific information out there on this particular brake conversion. There are a LOT of brake conversions out there, but none exactly the same as what I had in mind. The idea is to get ventilated front discs a little bit bigger diameter, and keep all standard toyota parts. I can have my master cylinder rebuild with a slightly bigger bore size as well to compensate for this, and the rear drums I can either put a compensator in the line, or resize the wheel cylinders etc. I will be installing a line locker as well :P Robert.

3k pistons do NOT fit in a 4k block the cut out on the bottom of the piston is shallower and they hit the counter weights on the crankshaft. buy a new set of acl pistons, you won't regret it. I re ringed a 4k when I was back in high school on a strict budget, and found a piston cracked, tried to fit a 3k piston and found this out. I ended up getting a 2nd hand 4k piston and fitting it. Now this is where I would like to bring up another point that is very important: If you are using 2nd hand pistons, or re using pistons, measure how much the ring grooves are worn!!! I didn't do this and they were worn excessively especially the 2nd hand piston that I put in, and all of my compression rings snapped 10,000 km later, with pieces of ring working up the side of the piston and mashing up the combustion chamber and piston badly. They were all broken and had been for some time, you could tell because the car was down on power and not sounding as crisp as it ought to. If you are rebuilding an engine, I would strongly reccommend that you buy new pistons. If the lip on the top of the bore is not too big, and the bore is not overly worn, and your budget is very tight, I would buy new acl standard pistons and fit them. The acl pistons are miles better than the standard repco pistons that came in the car. The repco ones were prone to cracking as well. Robert.

I do sincerely apologise for my previous remarks, and my commenting on censorship. I have lumped too many bad things in together. And I definitely did not mean anything bad towards you yourself or your family, and I am sorry about my rascist remarks, they were directed at the scum that lives in my immediate area. I refer to these people as scum because of how they act, which has nothing to do with their race. I'm turning into a grumpy old fart.