rob83ke70

I haven't been hassled by the police since I owned a commodore... something about that magical combination, P plate plus Commodore, seems to set them off somewhat. I've never had omg fully sic chromies, canons, front mount intercoolers, bov's (never owned a turbo actually) and I normally attribute that to why I never get hassled. I reckon a grumpy little n/a motor is much more fun than a turbo engine anyway... Robert.

wouldn't want to go bigger than 1.5" su carburettors on a 4k. maybe bigger on a 5k? Robert.

You should put a 2gr-fe 200kw aurion v6 converted to rwd in your rolla.... all toyota :dance: Robert.

i'd be keen on the side draught carburettors. If you drive it on the street the hitachi su clones would probably go really well when set up correctly. if you race it, the dellortos would be the go. pull the solenoid out of the standard carburettor and put a shallow bolt and a washer in to plug the hole. Robert.

If I had have upgraded the carburettor before I did anything else (ie camshaft regrinding and engine rebuild) then I'd probably have persisted for a few months and bought a faster car... rebuild the engine and put a different spec camshaft in it before you put a larger carburettor or exhaust on it. Robert.

I second that. rebuild the engine you have, you will learn much more and appreciate it more when its done. 4k's aren't slow if they are built and set up right. that being said it will take some time and some thinking to get it all right. Robert.

long time since I played with these things, and I've moved into the world of SU carburettors and thus no longer have all those pesky jets and circuits and twin butterflys to worry about, but all that being said, I've just had a moment of realisation there as to exactly what that adjustment on the secondary butterfly on a dgv is... Yes, I can be a bit slow!! :dance: if you drill a hole in the butterfly, make sure its a very small one to start and you will have to adjust the mixture richer to get it right. Robert.

traditionally you use one of the bolts to bolt the rear exhaust flange to the front flange but off centre so it isn't hooked up. makes it sound like a saddlefrigger exhaust.... not something I'd be proud of... if you want a nice sounding exhaust, run a muffler. I suppose it all depends on your definition of nice though. Robert.

350 holley would be best suited to a 202 or a 253 in the holden world or maybe a 250 crossflow in the ford world?? I don't think you'd find it that great to drive. I'm sure you could make it work, but probably not as drivable as other things. You'd be putting it on a tiny little inlet manifold on a tiny little engine anyway it seems pointless to have something that big. now, the bigger the diameter of the barrels the slower the air speed. what you want to make good power is high air speed so you can cram lots of air in and compress it lots and then get it out as quick as you can. People often make the mistake of going too big with carburettors and exhausts, when their engine would go better with smaller items and faster flow. you have two massive butterflys on that opening at the same time, which is huge for a K motor. When you mash the throttle it would "bog" down and die as too much air would get in. Combined with a very lumpy cam, very high compression, a balance/lighten and some careful attention to detail engine building you could make it work, but you'd be making a 10,000rpm monster that wouldn't last long, and you couldn't drive on the street. with a standard cam I think you would lose a lot of power and drivability, and you'd get eaten by someone with a healthy stock engine. Robert.

if you are running a standard engine, get a triple flow rear muffler and run no bigger than a 2" tip. It will sound nice enough to get attention but will not be too loud and you won't get booked for it. You DO need to run a muffler or else it WILL be TOO loud!! Robert.

kylie's 4k with a 280 odd degree camp will idle at 600 revs all day if tuned right :dance: but it has huge carburettors... I'd look at your cut off solenoid, make sure the fuse (labelled "engine") isn't blown. I'd definitely run 12 degrees of ignition advance as well if you have a different cam. My suggestion here though, keeping in mind its been a long time since I played with standard carburettors is that you physically cannot get enough air through the carburettor to keep the engine running when the butterfly is closed far enough to run on the idle jet. solution: fit a larger carburettor. I can't reccommend side draught carburettors enough either as the manifolds seem to be the biggest improvement. but as I said, its been a long time since I played with standard corolla carburettors. Robert.

I was under the impression that a correctly working egr setup will help with fuel economy under cruise conditions. soundsl ike you have a vacuum leak or blocked idle jet, or something weird happening :dance: Robert.

its been done before!! don't expect it to be very drivable especially down low! wasn't the holley 350 a twin barrel thing that opened both butterflys at the same time? reminded me of a stromberg fitted to a red 253.... Robert.

I'm a grumpy old man (I'm 23) and I don't have any idea what a torrent is!!

we were quoted around $500 to reset the leaves, add a rebound leaf to each pack, and install nolethane bushes, including all labour.... was thinking that might be the best solution. Robert.

glad somebody pointed that out, that was exactly the point I wished to make. Robert.

what is that?

I've been told that the spark should jump a 20mm gap if it is within spec. The spark will not jump a 20mm gap, although it looks nice and blue and healthy on a 1.1mm gap (old spark plug) so therefore I have a faulty ignition coil.

four cylinders are all at 165psi and the other two are around 145psi. more than likely a sealing error rather than actual compression problem. that is more than enough squish to fire the damn car up though!! gotta be a problem with the fuel delivery, or the spark is WAY off timing. Distributor goes in only the one way, timing is controlled by computer I'm pretty sure, so maybe a faulty ecu? stranger things have been known to happen I suppose. Any other opinions?

I have a mazda 626 v6, 1996 model that will not start. It has just had it's engine replaced with a secondhand unit, and it was running quite well, for a few days at least, then it started to missfire, like it either had a bad electrical problem (leads or similar) or it was flooding really badly. it then stalled and now will not restart. it has had a new timing belt and the cam timing is correct. I have good spark. I have put 6 new spark plugs in it. Ignition timing has not been moved from when it was running, cannot see any problems inside the cap or with the rotor or distributor, although as I said before, there is good fat blue sparks happening at the plugs. I have got fuel in the tank, the fuel pump is working, when cranking I get around 220kpa. the flow is around 0.5litres a minute when the engine cranks, upon releasing the key it climbs to 1.5litres/minute before the pump turns off. The spark plugs were quite wet with fuel. I have dried them repeatedly, so I have come to the conclusion that I have injector pulse (or the injectors are maybe stuck open??). I have dried them and disconnected the injector wiring and cranked for a long time as well in the hope of getting it to clear its flood. I can't get it to kick at all however and I am starting to despair. If I have good fat sparks, and I have fuel in the combustion chambers, I suppose the next thing to do now is to check the compression of the engine... sounds normal when cranking but I will put a gauge on it and measure it, if for no other reason than to provide myself something to do as I'm at my wits end just about. Has anybody got any ideas? I'd really really really like to work out what is happening today if I can!! I know its not a corolla, but there are quite a few of you out there that are car nuts such as myself and who get interested in all things automotive and mechanical related. Robert.

car isn't lowered, not keen on lowering blocks anyway. trying to keep some ground clearance :wink: monroe gt gas shocks in rear, very very stiff. caltrack bars are too expensive. we have universal slapper bars that I haven't put on because I'm a little stressed about ground clearance. was trying to think of a more efficient way of doing the job. Robert.

I know how axle tramp is caused and all that stuff, and I've read a bit about it, I've just got a few questions. Has anybody on here ever bound the front of the rear leaves together as suggested in the faq (also mentioned on brindabella motorsport club forum) so as to make the front of the spring pack like a control arm, and the rear still acting as a spring? is it worth adding half a leaf to the front of the spring pack on top? if so, should it be a thick leaf or a thin one? I haven't got any experience with these things (was born 30 years too late) and I'm trying to walk the fine line between too stiff springs causing less traction and axle tramp, the current problem. do nolethane bushes make much of a difference? some people I've spoken to don't seem to think that it would. would nolethane swaybar bushes make a difference to axle tramp? Robert.

Is it possible to get a limited slip diff centre for a borgwarner diff in a ke55? I'm not interested in putting a bigger heavier diff into the car, just want to try and stop doing single leggers.... its running a rather healthy 4k and a k40 and it does get abused a bit (khanacrosses, hillclimbs, motorkhanas). I'd like to try and make it a bit more consistant without adding lots of weight to the car. As it is a daily driver, CIG is not an option. can anyone shed some light on how much different a ke11 borgwarner diff is to the ke55/ke70? Robert

took months and a lot of driving to start leaking on kylie's corolla, not leaking much so I keep washing it every few months. just silicone by itself i don't think would work. I didn't use a great deal of silicone on the rubber gasket when I put it together, I will be a lot more fussy next one I build. Robert.

speaking of 7pm limit and unreg permits and all that stuff, my old tafe teacher tells me that lapping the main street with a trade plate in a brand new monaro full of girls is frowned upon by the constabulary.... I'm pretty sure you are over equipped for the trip, I'd take pliers, shifter, two bottles of water and some oil.... and a bit sense of adventure. Robert.