rob83ke70

I would like to apologize for my deleted remarks, this is perhaps not the forum to vent that particular rant.

What is your idle speed? too high an idle, and it will want to keep running when the ignition is switched on (too much momentum of engine keeps drawing fuel in after ignition switched off). Have you got any sources of unmetered air? eg vacuum leaks. spray a small amount of carby cleaner or similar on manifold between cylinder head and manifold and around base of carburettor. Check for freeplay in the throttle shafts and wear in the butterflies as well. How much initial ignition timing advance are you running? what heat range spark plugs are you running? what fuel you use will also affect it. If the car is running correctly, it shouldn't idle without the cut off solenoid being energised. In my experience, these aren't usually the CAUSE of the problem, they can help the SYMPTOMS though. lean mixtures and too high an idle speed are the two main causes of running on. Fairly rare to see something so carboned up that it runs on but it does happen too. Go to your local subaru dealership, and buy a can of "Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner" and spray in the manifold, down the carburettor throats etc, let it sit a little bit, then spray it down the carburettor with the engine running after a few minutes. Wipe any extra off. This may improve the situation a bit as well. Robert.

Censorship grinds my gears, if you know what I mean...

I dunno, the weather in Orange is really skitz. It's giving me the craps lately. It goes: hot, hot, hot, humid, rain, storm rain, cold, warm, fecking cold. ETC ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is why I got so many colds this year!

if you get an infrared thermometer and check the temperature of the radiator top and bottom hose, the top should be around the temp of the thermostat and the bottom should be up to 20 degrees cooler. If that is the case when the temp gauge is reading funny don't stress too much about it. if you go with the plenum of the liteace, you will need another air filter to fit the pipe and it probably won't be any easier to get it on or off.

oh and worst of all, narromine-ism!! narromine is a small hick town west of dubbo in nsw. I was unfortunate enough to grow up there. Now its is really clicky place and if you don't have the right number of fingers and toes on each hand and foot respectively, ie more than 6 or less that 4 is considered pretty normal, or if you weren't born to the right family or some other such rubbish people decide they hate you. and they make it their business to hassle you over everything. the other key feature of narromine is that everyone supports everything that comes from narromine and says it is really good regardless of if it is good or not. Really shit things are still really good because they come from narromine and they have to support everything that comes from narromine. I really really hate that!!!! if it is shit, then say so, if it is good then say so!!!

*shakes head* first year apprentices!!! where have hiring standards fallen to!! either that or its been in there a LONG time with no antiseize at all... We had a toyota tarago the other day with a 2.4 2azfe engine in it with a cracked cylinder head leaking coolant into the spark plug tubes causing a misfire..... Plugs weren't real good to get out on that either...

you can get a snorkel type attachment off another toyota, probably a van. I'd leave some sort of standard enclosed air filter on it, one off another toyota would be ok, and put the intake to the filter somewhere where it will get cold air. The best thing about this is that if everything says toyota on it and it takes standard filters/parts, it starts to become really trippy looking under the bonnet.... make it look factory, and see how many people you confuse... If you put a pod on it, it needs to be securely mounted or else it is a defect. By the very nature of a pod, it will be hard to get it to suck air that is not hot from the engine bay.... put it in the guard maybe like a wrx thats been modified properly? if the radiator is brand new and the thermostat is brand new, then you may have a dicky temp sender, would be worth measuring the temperature and working out if it is hot or if its just the gauge.

I've woosed out and got the spider spray and spent a good 20 minutes cleaning under the bonnet of at least three cars in my career.... I can put up with a bit but these cars had more spiderweb/spiders than automotive componentry and I had to replace a starter motor and pull a gearbox out of another one and I just was not in the mood for spiders crawling up my arms.

for the love of god please be careful if you are using one of those pullers!!! you really really do NOT want to put a scratch on the crankshaft or the outer housing because it will leak oil. I would reccomend that you be VERY careful and use a seal pick/screwdriver/seal puller, if that doesn't work, or you can't get a swing on it, I would get the shits and drill a small hole in the face of the seal, then screw a self tapper into it, which will then push the seal out when it reaches the hard surface behind the seal. multiple screws on the one seal if its really stubborn. I did that on a front crank seal on a 3.5lt v6 magna, worked a treat!! If you put a scratch on the crank its probably not the end of the world, you can buy a speedi sleeve which is an interferance fit sleeve that you tap over the scratch and provides you with a new surface for the seal to run on. If you put a scratch on the outer case, smooth it off as best as you can, clean it, and I'd reccommend aviation sealant around the OUTSIDE of the seal when you install it. These things you find out when fixing other motor mechanic's stuff ups... Robert.

butchering a neat tidy little car and making a FUBAR of it. bad paint jobs tarting cars up, ie taking something already fast and making it fully hectic with 20" chromies and a sound system and pod filter. BRAKE FLUID!!! FOR THE LOVE OF GOD WHY CAN'T PEOPLE CHANGE IT WHEN ITS BAD!!! Police vehicles running around with bald tyres with wires hanging out of them, only servicing them ever 20-40 thousand km's, and somehow getting away with making their own service schedule but still having factory warranty!! VE commodores with a non maintainence free battery in the boot where you can't get to it properly to check electrolyte level Oh and garden rocks. I can't stand them! There we go, thats what grinds my gears!! Robert.

How much of a difference in power are we talking about? I'm not a huge fan of the EGR single pipe outlet exhaust manifold on a ke70, nor the air injection if it has it. Disgusting thing, makes it pop through the exhaust... would drive me looney. Ke70 had something weird happening with vac advance, would only get it in fourth and/or fifth gear? Its been a long time since I read the emissions booklet.

I bet that would be fun to drive!! What sort of tyres are you running? Does it break traction all the time? Robert.

you are talking about the oil return from the turbo on a 7a-fte, I'm sure it was a 1.8 litre engine, I know the part and what you are talking about. A spare parts place that knows what they are doing should be able to get it for you. Failing that, I know at least one person on this forum has this engine with this part in their corolla, because I serviced it at work, if they are nice enough they can get you their VIN number and then you can order the parts from toyota :) Robert.

You had mag wheel valves originally fitted. Any tyre place should be able to supply you with mag valves again, they are a bit more expensive than rubber valves. I can't remember how much, and the hole in the rim can be slightly different although if they were originally fitted then they can be fitted again. Scum around my way seemed to like knocking off the nice chrome hexagonal valve caps..... Robert.

I'd suggest that you take the radiator out and get it professionally cleaned out by a good radiator repair person. My old ke70 used to sit around 1/4, but if you left it idling in 40 degree heat it would come up a bit over half. flogging it along the road at 110km/hr with four or five people in it and heavily loaded with eskies and booze also got the temperature up a bit too. If you put a thermo fan on it, get a shroud made. it will make more of a difference than anything else you do. But get the radiator cleaned out first. To drain the coolant from the block, there should be a drain plug on the front of the engine down near the alternator on the block, this will drain the coolant out of the block thoroughly. oh and with your air intake, I think you should find a snorkel attachment out of a km20 liteace or km36 litace fitted with the K engine, and bolt that on top of your carburettor, then mount a small remote air filter probably out of another toyota such as a hilux maybe, somewhere in your engine bay and make it suck cold air from inside a guard or similar. This will actually make your car gain a little bit of power. A little bit.... if you put a sports filter with open sides on your standard carburettor it will suck hot air and lose a little bit of power. sound cooler, and look cooler, but will not go quite as well... Robert.

Shouldn't do anything too tight... wheel nuts, spark plugs, engine components... I'd say you are lucky you got it out with an easy out, because those ones are tapered, all the stress is placed on one part of the easy out and more often than not they break, leaving hardened steel easy out stuck in the middle of the thing that was stuck in the hole in the first place.... I normally put a small amount of antiseize on spark plug threads, particually platinum plugs which get left in for 100,000km or commodore plugs which get left in until they are worn so bad it misfires... and never do them up tighter than they should be!! Robert.

uh... NEWSFLASH!!! My mummy and daddy did not pay for my car. I started out with a ke70 too. Paid for it myself. It was a shitbox!! But I fixed the problems I had with it, and it wasn't too bad of a car when I was done. And I don't think that I've been asking stupid questions, if you don't know something, its always a good idea to ask. Why do you think I have workshop manuals at work? Why do you think that I talk with other motor mechanics at work? I think that it is appropriate to offer opinions whether they be positive or negative. I really really really do NOT like your car and what you've done to it. I'm happy that YOU like it, but I never will. Please don't EVER butcher something more collectable such as an earlier model!!!

I'm suddenly having strange urges to flush my head in the toilet too.... I wonder why that could be? In the grand scheme of things boring your engine out will make a neglible difference and will cost you more that what it is worth. The things that make the biggest difference are camshaft profile, cylinder compression, and how big your sparks are. You also need the gasses to flow smoothly with high velocity in and out of your engine. You need to have everything set up right to make your engine run its best. I really thing that you need to get yourself into a non collectable non toyota car that goes reasonably well so when you slow it down by modifying it the performance loss won't be crippling.

we just sat here reading the whole thing and winced every time we read something new. I'm a motor mechanic, and I really love cars, anyone who knows me can vouch for that. This is just all wrong. You deserve a crappy pranged rusty smokey rattly old n13 pulsar with at least 300k on the clock. I won't mind so much about the loss of one of those.

disgusting. If I was desperate for a car I would pay you $200 for that IF it ran, and had some rego on it!!! Whats with the bonnet scoop and nissan bluebird looking body kit!!! The more a car looks like its been stuffed with, the less money its worth, and that looks incredibly bad. It started out life as a tidy respectable looking car, and you've killed it. You realise that every time you take it to someone to get something done to it, they roll around on the floor laughing at you as soon as you leave!! If I was a police officer I'd probably book you for something. or a lot of things. especially the way that you are talking about "p plater spec" and all this "drift spec" talk!! Do you actually go racing it? Have you ever been racing? I mean legitimate racing, not tearing around on public roads making an idiot out of yourself!! Its no wonder that P platers especially red P platers get picked on and have such a bad reputation!!! I mean, I'm all for doing cars up, and I'm all for being different, but really, every man and his dog have tried the half assed "OMG fully hectic body kit" look since the fast and the furious!! If you really want to be different, you should get a car that is different to begin with, and look after it!! If you are going to do that with a car, start with a old crappy car, not a neat tidy one, the neat tidy ones should go to people who love neat tidy corollas. The ONLY reason why you should have a bonnet scoop is because you have a top mounted intercooler or a carburettor air intake directly underneath it... I mean, what does it do other than that?? I'm a huge fan of cars in general, I love working on cars, thats my job, and I love modifying cars, but this does absolutely nothing for me at all other than wince. I hope you've had a lot of fun with it, but trust me you are not going to get anywhere near the money you spent on it back... If you do get $4500 please let me know how to contact the sucker because I have a tonne of stuff to offload for an unreasonable amount of money too!!

bummer.... I suppose the easiest option then would be to buy another one out of a carburetted hilux? I kind of like the idea of injecting the 4y but I'm not sure its feasible due to time constraints and/or money constraints... Its a LPG/Petrol dual fuel engine in a toyota dyna yh81r..... what a thing to work on!!!

Someone gave me these bits. I've never had a chance to play around with more than one Y series engine. Pics are attached. the cable joining the igniter and the distributor has two wires in it. seven other wires come out of the igniter. the other pieces i have no idea what it is... Robert.

not quite sure i understand. I have three items sitting here, a distributor/coil assembly, a box that has 9 wires going in/out of it, two of which are hooked to the signal part of the distributor, one of which is a case earth, and another box that has three wires going into/out of it, with nothing intelligible written on it... i need positive power to the coil when ignition switch is on/start position, and i need switching earth to the negative side of the coil from the ignition module, and a pulse signal going into the ignition module. the rest of the wires i have no idea at all...

hey not quite a corolla, but pretty close, i've got a 4y toyota engine with a points ignition in it, and i've got a electronic ignition system out of a hilux, and talk about wires everywhere!!! i've got the distributor which has the coil inside it, which has a two wire plug coming out of it, and another two wires going to the igniter module (it says this on the box) now the igniter module has 9 wires all up going in/out of it, including the two that connect to the distributor. i've also got another box which appears to be an igniter module with three wires coming out of it... now i thought that signal from distributor goes to ignition module, then switching goes to coil, coil fires spark.... where does an igniter fit into this?? Robert.