oldeskewltoy

actually I was measuring for getting the client 1SZ buckets for his 4AGE... I have a set of the thinnest 1SZ buckets, I install them, make my measurements, rotate the cam 2 or 3 times, re-check all my measurements so I order only the appropriate buckets needed..... In the USA the 1SZ was not available, so screwing up a measurement means a 30 day wait for parts coming from Japan

Any of the OHC engines should be easier... you just point the lobes away from the valves you are adjusting.... Here is a 4AGE (similar architecture to 1G). Note the cam lobes are pointing toward the camera, and are facing 180 degrees away from the bucket/shim. Here is where to measure. Here I'm measuring valve clearances to .0005" I measured to this extent when I'm swapping 1SZ buckets... @ $12 a bucket you need to be accurate! PS - there is enough information in that photo for a smart, observant individual to tell me how much that particular bucket is out of spec.... anyone care to take a guess???

4AGE pistons - left = 9.4 to 1, right = 10 to 1 4AGZE pistons - left = 8.0 to 1, right = 8.9 to 1

This head is now done! intake and exhaust valve clearances have been set. Now to get it boxed up and on its way to its new owner ;)

Thanks for the nice sentiment - I've sold ported heads all over the world... OST-008, and OST-013 each went to clients over seas - both in Europe. Right now I'm working on an SR20DE head for the purchaser of OST-008, he's now moved on to a Primera (G20) SR20DE powered, and I'm looking into ways to improve flow - http://www.sr20-foru...otainement.html But that's another thread....

Not even a guess?? (excluding altezzaclub, he's been playing....) Even a quick view @ the pic title gives MOST of it away.... "disassembled_exhaust_valves_for_tipping.jpg" How much easier can I make it??? :lol: alright.... what is seen above.... the intake cam is in, the exhaust cam is not only not in, but all the exhaust valves are out in box-stock type cardboard, each marked with two series of numbers (1-8), and a second series that appears to be measurements (apologies for not marking the type of units used). So the story.... The new cams were unpacked, and I began on the exhaust side. I used all 2.9mm shim to begin, and once the cam was tightened into place, and I checked... I managed to get 3 readings... all .0015" (spec on exhaust is .25mm, or .0100"), the other 5 were just too tight to even get a measurement. So, I removed the 5 shims, and fitted 5 of the thinnest shims I had, remeasured and found to get proper clearances I'd need to order 7 shims ranging from 2.5mm to 2.70mm. To make a LOOONG story much shorter... the second series of numbers that appear to be measurements are measurements of how much each of the exhaust valves need to be tipped. Tipping the valves will get their clearances back to a range were special ordered shims are not required(2.8-3.1). It will also allow for a 2nd valve job to be done on this head and still be able to shim it, something that would not be possible if I didn't tip the valves today. Now the good news... the intake side was set just fine, no weird things there. 5 valves are set @ .008" and the other 3 are @ .009" more to come.... :D

So last "quiz" on this head.... What's up? more to come..... :D

It shouldn't be too difficult.... Keiichi Tsuchiya's 180hp 4AGE powered AE86 was reputed to use stock cams. The engine had been put together by legandary TRD tech Mr. Sakurai... from this article.... http://www.farmofmin...legendary-ae86/ (180hp = 150-155 @ the wheels) I'm no TRD engine guru... but a stock 4AG is so detuned it approaches ridiculous. Make a near detonation proof chamber (piston crown is PART of the chamber), raise compression, improve flow in and out and its plausible for that kind of power......

Owner: Dan Username:oldeskeweltoy Location:Oregon, USA Vehicle Name:Surreptitious Vehicle Model:AE71 Body Shape (# Doors):2 Door coupe, aka sport coupe Date Made: VIN: JT2AE72CXD2000077 Colour: white Engine:originally 4AC, now 170hp 4AGE

Please excuse this "Merican"... 4k - 72#/ft of torque (plus or minus) 18R - 108#/ft of torque (plus or minus) an extra 36#/ft of torque makes for a totally different car........ :kiwi: if he is going through the crap to go from auto to manual anyway(cost), how hard is it to source, or build the few bits and bobs needed to swap and get the substantially added power??

As I alluded too, the cams have arrived. They are a pair of Catcams 7105136 exhaust cams. As the box labels, and the cams indicate. Since I'm setting the valve clearances, and the cams are more or less identical, I've labelled them "I", "E" so there can't be any mixing of one to the other. This will also help my client get them back in the right places once the head is bolted on. These are a MILD bump in duration and lift over Bluetop cams. Just a reminder... early TVIS cams are 240 total duration, 204 duration@ 1mm lift, with 7.5mm cam lift. Ok, why go with such a "mild cam" a few reasons: 1) California emissions, that on its own can make or break this build. 2) My client is keeping the stock 9.4 to 1 pistons - he will be adding a thinner head gasket, and the chambers are smaller, but this engine won't be breaking past 10 to 1, so keeping as much trapped compression (DCR) is important. The ramp on this cam is pretty aggressive ("foot" is only 13 degrees) so even though the cam is "mild", it isn't as mild as the numbers appear... The intake timing @ 1mm lift for this exhaust cam used on the intake side would be 4ATDC to 36ABDC. Now add in the head cut to the cam timing (albeit not a huge amount) will move cam timing closer to 2ATDC and 34ABDC... all with 8mm lift and all the "extra" duration from 1/2 lift on. Only time will tell, but this should bring a nice LEGAL smile to my client :D More to come...... :D EDIT - not thinner headgasket, so only compression bump is from 1cc smaller chamber (about 9.6 to 1)

The valvetrain is now assembled.... Cam caps buffed.... Just waiting on those new cams..... More to come...... :wave:

Installing valve #8... apologies to AC/DC... my timing was off by about a second.... :lol:

Amazing what isn't seen... A great deal... but its all there. From the top view you miss out on #1, and much of #3 but #2 and 4 are quite evident. Since this is a California head I've left the swirl generators, but managed to adjust their shapes to something a bit more uniform, one needs a bit more work - does anyone know wtf I'm talking about :lol: 3 angle with back cut intakes They shouldn't....... Nothing I've done is actually drastic. For the most part I'm just improving the original casting by port matching the seats-bowls-ports to more closely match the original design. The surface machining of .018" is not beyond the normal range. A multi angle valve job is not beyond typical. The slightly raised compression will not hurt either. The client has selected to run a pair of MILD upgrade cams. He purchased 2 exhaust cams from Cat Cams 7105136 on my recommendation. They have the same timing as the OEM cams' date=' they have a bit more lift, and a bit more duration... without it going to an extreme (emissions unfriendly) First apologies... the more common, and in this case correct term is actually "tumble generators" This kind of tumble generator promotes lower air speed performance by causing the incoming air to rotate as it approaches the valve. The theory is it helps to fill the valve area better. It also may act as a passive emissions device... to further aid in air-fuel mixing so more complete combustion can occur. More to come.... :D

Really? which Webs? My AE86 used the Web 294 grind and they passed' date=' albeit with a new OEM type cat, but they passed. And I'm pretty sure OST-019 passed using a mild cam, but it needed a bit of ignition timing tweaks to pass. Most likely my client will be running a set of the "big", or early stock cams if he can get himself a good pair. There is a Cat cam that MIGHT work, its their shortest, lowest lift cam, it measures 214 @ .040" lift, with a gross lift of 8 mm. The Web 294 cam is 214 also, but @ .050" lift. Checking chamber volumes on the cut head.... it is down to 35.1cc (tolerance = + or - .1cc) So we can move on... besides waiting a week for the machine work, that same time was used to get new springs.... 16 new OEM springs... Now its just left too assembly..... More to come..... :D

After the cut' date=' with the valves fitted... waiting for checking chamber volumes.... [img']http://ost.ebeans.ch/albums/userpics/10005/head_back_after_cut_with_valves_smaller.jpg[/img] This head was cut .018" (.457mm) My caliper can't figure out if it is .45, or .46 "Volumes" to come........ :D

Atlantic heads suffer from seal dislodging... they make two small semi circular plates and screw them to the front of the head under/around each cam. As to a better breather... see that rear most Allen plug, remove that plug and install a fitting there, that should be sufficient. OR... keeping your rear breathers... don't connect them, but splice them all into the oil separator.

Not too much obscure... mostly Toyota... 4KE, 4AGE, 5MGE, 7MGTE, and a little Nissan - SR20DE Still trying to get my hands on a 4U-GSE.... (FRS/GT86) Subaru's designation is the FA20 They are getting better... BUT as long as they are still mass produced parts, there will be flaws speaking about 4U-GSE/FA20.... Now back to the work @ hand...... exhaust #1 all the chambers More to come........ :D

BEFORE you buy any aftermarket system........ Look for tuning shops in your area. find which are the best, and what they are familair tuning with.... this gives you the option if you can't get it tuned, to have it professionally tuned by someone who knows the system you installed.... Take it from me on this one... I have a high end management system (FJO 341b), but no one around here except one place had any idea how to tune the engine with the FJO. Just something to keep in your mind

Checked the TPS setting?? Checked the TPS function?

What management are you running?? There are some in the USA who have experienced a similar type problem when running a 100kw(smallport right?), on the earlier type TVIS (largeport) management.

exhaust port #2 mid work Chambers 4, 3, and now 2 deshrouded Intake short radii on 4, 3, and now 2.... More to come...... :D

Since the last post was a brief discussion about that edge... I thought a short gif of the progression of the chamber walls.... although "polished" in the last scene, it wont be finished till after I have chamber volumes, and adjust accordingly And now for exhaust port #3 More to come...... :D

From oldeskewltoy.... The chambers edge around the right intake valve has changed a tiny bit' date=' so technically you are correct,[/quote'] Why did it change?? Chamber edge... this time cylinder 3. On top is the chamber edge before any work, you can see the old gasket, so that edge "sat" in the combustion chamber, the photo below shows after removing the half that is toward the exhaust valve (right) Note how significant a flaw the edge of the chamber actually is.... when measured... it is .48mm "tall", and it is .73mm "deep", or sticking into the chamber is a sharp edge. So how significant is it...??? see the little green arrow, that arrow shows where I placed the dental pick.... Edges are NOT GOOD, they promote detonation, and this one stick "in" like a sore thumb :( So... that is why the edge of chamber four around the right hand valve now has a bit more room to breath.... and it is likely that all the chambers will show this change as well More to come...... :D

The head this thread began with, that since has been replaced is the worst head I've seen. I've had to discard other heads because of flaws before*, but this is the worst head, at least in regards to correct chamber shape, that I've seen. * - http://www.hachiroku...771&postcount=7 A short annotated photo showing the areas of work, and the similar area before work - no "hogging" here As I did for the 7MG head above, I redid on this head, so the translucent redline shows us the port floor 1) The short radius - a gentle curve to the valves edge to promote cylinder filling 2 & 3 ) shaping the bowl to the seat, further promote cylinder filling 4) "Opening" the passage between the splitter and the guide, allowing the airflow easier passage past the guide - once again to aid in cylinder filling. Nothing drastic, just taking a mass produced part and making it better :2thumbs: More to come...... :D