oldeskewltoy

NOT that many owned by little old ladies here in the states... although the low mileage ones in decent shape ARE probably owned by the few little old ladies who do own them. Long door, or frameless door models tend to get a few more dollars from them. When I picked up mine I paid $1200, without an engine... and I over paid because I've gotten some cool perks over time from the seller (he buys/sells on YJ)

Sam has it correct.. rod strength is most important when it comes to RPM levels... if you have a concern a set of aftermarket rods should be more than enough. Just for point of fact I'm twisting my engine to around 8200, and I'm using the "whimpy" early "small" rod (40/18) With these engines now approaching 30+ years old... you may have any number of mixed parts. I wouldn't count on anything till you have it apart. NOT all 7 rib blocks carry squirters... at least not in the USofA... squirters were only available on the high comp engines - so after 1990. Either block (3 rib or 7 rib) can be machined to accept squirters... btw... did I mention I'm NOT a fan of piston squirters... PLENTY of oil spraying out from all the rod journals, and with the engines rotation the rod journal itself sprays the entire piston/cylinder all the time.

nope it doesn't... that is why we replaced that head....

I'm running a bit softer then 6kg, I'm at about 5.3kg/mm front and I'm running 3.5 kg/mm rears. Dampening by Tokico HTS112

I've restored a 1970 Mustang Mach1 428SCJ, and I've restored old Toyotas... the aftermarket parts availability is a problem... and an opportunity.... for someone/company to begin supplying restoration parts for old J-Tin.

Many of my clients don't fully understand the effects... in many cases the detail I show in the headwork goes a long way to educate them. Remember MANY 4AG powered cars are in the hands of low budget, or first time owners....

Back to OST-030.....

Shiney is a bit mis-leading... yes it is shiny... but much of what you see is the lighting I used. The last frame in the gif showing the intake port above actually shows the deshrouded chamber, as well as the ports... the chamber is suppose to be shiney.... as is the exhaust ports. The intake ports are brought to a consistent finish with 125 grit Matching the gasket doesn't "fix" the problem inside the 4AG head, it just tend to mask it. So what is the problem in the exhaust ports of a 4AG head? The taper inside is all wrong..... Here is what I do inside.... Notice the inside wall has been significantly changed, while the outside hasn't.... How about a positive view of my work.... After is on the right..... A straighter path lowers pumping losses.... Problem with gasket matching... if the engines installer doesn't hang the exhaust correctly, the top of the matched exhaust port can be interfered with because the gasket tends to have about a millimeter of slop on the studs... so I port the roof so that when the gasket is hanging on the studs, the roof is less than a millimeter from the gaskets edge. As to "opening" the floor of the port exhaust... I've only done it once, to an O/S valve head I made a few years ago... As to improvements while keeping the outlet nominally @ the stock opening

4 down...... Next stop valve job and resurface... and then we set chamber volume.... More to come....... :D

further progress... 3 down 1 to go.... this time the intake view - first short radii... followed by the view down the ports The exhaust... And the chambers... 3 panel this time so you can see the progression More to come..... :D

2 down.... 2 to go..... Chambers..... exhaust ports..... More to come....... :D

#1 is almost finished... Here is #1 exhaust bowls/port in transition And a closer view of the short radius, and the port in the background More to come....... :D

not ignoring you... not quite ready yet to show that part of the process :)

A similar build planted around 150whp, or about 170 @ the crank

I recommend to NOT use the tensioner spring... its an accident waiting to happen... It is even worse if you have the belt correctly tensioned. Once the timing belt is set to the above spec, I've found that the tensioner spring typically is a bit loose on the mounting pin. With vibration the spring can fall off, and shreds the timing belt. If you have the correct belt tension, and the correct torque on the tensioner bearing, the spring is not needed.... kinda like an appendix.

A delicate dance... titled as such because OST-031 and OST-030 will be built almost simultaneously. As you can see... OST-030 in the background, with 2 heads in front Clients head on the left.... anyone see an issue?? How about if we isolate the two sets of chambers.... clients head on top It's replacement on the bottom See anything now?? Closer?? I've dismantled the replacement and I've sent it on to get cleaned and pressure checked.... So with it @ the shop to get cleaned, the delicate dance proceeds as I move back to OST-030 More to come... :D

Got this via FedEx yesterday.... I've gotten heads in all kinds of containers/packaging. But this one is unique, and lead to the title..... :) It has very interesting latches.... I wish all clients would be able to do this....... Safe and secure with plenty of protection around it the head is clean, and it comes with all the hardware.... ..... along with a set of Pon cams!!!! More to come....... :yes:

thanks... this is what I do........ ;) examples of what I mean by sharp edges Top panel shows full sharp edge, lower panel shows partially removed area The green arrow in the lower panel (photo above) points to where the pick was hanging from in the photo below

1) Chamber shape and quality didn't change much from 1983-1992 - means largeport and smallport chambers similar size and shape. Same is true for smallport and largeport exhaust port shape. 2) TVIS used either 9.4 or 10 to 1 without knock sensor, high comp did have knock sensor @ 10.3 Assumption therefore is you can raise compression a 1/2 point + and still not require knock concerns (may require higher octane fuel) but... the more perfectly shaped chamber the better* An uncut head can be machined as much as 1.5mm this will lower the combustion chamber volume from 36cc down to a marginal 32.5cc-32cc. A 1mm cut will get volumes to about 33cc-33.5cc. 1/2mm cut will get you to about 34.5cc-35cc * Can you work a Dremel? If you can work a Dremel you can significantly improve the chambers resistance to detonation - ping - only work around the valve seats with a pair of old valves installed to protect the seats Notice how the chambers edge doesn't move, yet I've removed the "sharp" edges in the chamber that can promote detonation. the above work adds less than a cc to chamber volume which if the head is machined 1/2mm gets it back to stock, or a 1/2cc smaller Speaking about sharp edges... I like to run my hands around all 4 of the chambers feeling for anything sharp - frequently this is caused by either miscasting, or the heads initial run through the machining equipment. From the TRD Bible... remove the "joggles" As to 3 angle valve jobs... also from the TRD Bible.... The valve angle should be 1/2 to 1 degree less(44.5 to 44 degrees) providing a slight taper between the seat and valve. A 30 degree back cut on the intake valve also helps improve flow. Exhaust back cut not really worth it at this stage Finally as you well know, there is only 7.5mm of cam lift... get all your valve clearances as close to the minimum as you can, this will provide you the most lift, and duration from the stock cams....

You can measure the heads thickness to determine if it has been machined. 116mm, or 4.567" is uncut Chamber volume should be 36cc - info measured by me many times, confirmed in the TRD Bible

below are the 2 Toyota TVIS pistons. One on left is 9.4 to 1, one on right is 10 to 1 This photo shows on far left high comp 10.3 to 1, center is damaged 9.4 to 1, and right is TRD Group A piston Visually, they(your pistons) are low comp 9.4 to 1 pistons.. Basically if the center dome section is below the edge of the piston, it'll be low comp, piston in top photo on right is the not catalyst 4AGE 10 to 1 piston and you can see the dome rises above the edge. Same is trrue with the 10.3 to 1 piston

are the washers under the headbolts??? Once you get the head out I'd love to see some photos of the chambers and ports ;) OEM Toyota head gasket seals the best, especially if the block deck has not been machined.

simple check for injectors if you don't have equipment is swap 2... and see if the problem moves with the injector....

very nice "little" ride. Tweaked 4AGE is also nice. edit - btw... how far did you fly, and then return drive? Back in 1999 I was driven 2 hours, to take a 2 hour plane trip to drive an AE86 home... another 7 hours.

1982 - the upper strut mounts should(may be) the same as AE86 that way almost all of the AE86 performance bits should work. - not sure about the springs) As to short stroke... Tokico likely still offers the HTS102, it is an adjustable short stroke shock. Some may recommend to swap in AE86 strut housings... (I did this), but do to the shock towers being 12mm differently spaced, to use AE86 struts you must compensate for the 12mm. I compensated with adjustable lower control arms...