nikctime21

I'm working on it, I'm hoping thats the problem. Ill have a bit more of a play tonight. The thing is i can't even change gears on the box by moving the selectors at the end of the gearbox when the extension housing is off. I'm guessing thats cause i don't have enough leverage force though. Ill mess around tonight trying to locate it and hopefully that should be the problem. Cheers

Hi, Ive recently done a swap from a KE70 to a KE55 extension housing on a 5 speed, no problem lining it up or anything. The problem I'm having is that before i changed the housing it all changed gears nicely, no problems, no I'm putting the KE55 one and i can't manage to change gears any more. Ive tried aligning the gear shifter to the correct gear and everything, but i still have no luck, i can't even change the gear using the control inside the extension housing. Any ideas Cheers

http://www.transdirect.com.au/ I used these guys a couple months ago to send a gearbox from SA to VIC, 30kg big parcel and it was only 35 dollars door to door. Very reasonable price considering the cost of other places, and you don't need an account.

So do 34adm webers have the same top as a 32/36? I just want a setup where i don't have to have the throttle linkages etc running through the inlet. Ill make a trip to pick a part this weekend and see how i go finding one!

Yeh thats what i found so i think ill stick to using my mig. Ill try make something similar to a gas hat or just get something from pick a part and modifiy it as best i can. I would of though that it wouldn't be to hard to get a gas hat type fitting for a 32/36 as they are a common carby

I planning on building a turbo onto the side of my 5K with a blow through setup onto a 32/36. I just wondering if anyone has done this before and has any advice, also I'm looking at the moment for ideas on a turbo hat for the top of the carby that i can put the piping into. I'm really looking for some good blow through pictures and hat ideas, ive read through the big turbo thread but want some more ideas if anyone has them At the moment its probably gonna be a bit backyard with a j pipe and a small turbo running about 7-8PSI as I'm not touching the head yet. Cheers :P Also just quickly does anyone know if a 32/36 shares the same shape for an air filter as any holleys or something as this will give me more options

The six wires will be for three things, if it the same as my holden i just switched. 1 - Reverse lights 2 - Park kill switch 3 - Kickdown You'll just need to figure out which ones do which, you obviously wont need a kickdown anymore, but the other reverse lights should have a connection somewhere. Park kill switch is optional aswell, but as mentioned above you could turn it into a normal kill switch by inserting a switch! Cheers By the way, the kickdown wires should be easy elimanate as they will go to a microswitch near the accelerator pedal

Holy crap, 1200. You can pick up a decent setup from ebay for about 300 or a bit more. Got to aussiev8.com.au and check they're for sale section. They're should be someone on there upgrading and wanting to get rid of they're old motor. I guess it depends on how long you want it to last, but if its just for a burnout car it should be no trouble. If 253's are worth 1200 ill be laughing when i swap mine out! Maybe follow up the one below if its still for sale! Shift kit would be awesome in the Rolla! http://www.aussiev8.com.au/sale-items/2301...-auto-sale.html

Good point, am i missing something here!

You know what you should do, save your moneys for a 308 in your ute. Then you can get a shitty cheap ecotec and auto, which should make more power than a stock 308 anyways, plus is shorter and easier to fit. But it wont have that sweet V8 grumble. You could pickup a 253 tri combo for about 200 probably cause no one wants them, or even dumby the whole setup with the 253 then slot a 308 in later. 253 has the same shape mounts everything.

Get a gigantic 5 inch monster tacho. Really what does your car look like, classic, streetmachine etc and what look do you want? Are you asking for brands or style of tacho?

Rewinds for sure, black centre rims with chrome bands are the tits!

ok all sounds good. I guess a compression ratio up at about 10 should be pretty good hopefully, just as a query, what is the stock compression I will be running this with a mild cam and 98RON all the time so i hopefully wont have an issue with detonation if i raise the compression. What cam are you running Philbey?

Yeh could be that also. Its hard to diagnose diff problems from in the car, you really need he car on axle stands and get some on to drive it while you listen to where its coming from. Wheels bearing could be something to replace first, and see if it remedies the problem. If not have a look at the diff centre.

Yep sounds like a bearing is gone. Check the bearing hasn't started breaking apart by removing the inspection cover of the diff and looking at the oil (no idea if they have inspection cover someone else will be able to tell you) If there are sparkly bits then something is serious, if not do an oil change and run a heavier oil and a bit more full than normal and this should reduce the noise a bit. The simple answer is yes it wrecked so either get the centre rebuilt (expensive) or go pick up a new diff from the wreckers. Cheers

What sort of compression can a 5k run, or is best suited too? given that i will be running it on optimax or a similar 98 octance fuel. Given that how many thou should i get skimmed to achieve that?

Oh man, if you got it that cheap PM details to me. I want some that cheap :bash: . Lol But as the others said it is a very good price considering the individual price you might pay for just the gearbox.

Sweet, thanks for the help. I reckon i'll do the head for sure then, just to get some better airflow with the exhaust and bigger carby

I presume valve springs would be something that tighe would be able too supply aswell? I was considering taking the head of just to give the head a clean and suss the condition of it. If it was looking a bit ratty i was considering getting some head work done i.e porting, shaved head and also bigger valves if there is a standard sort of big valve upgrade.

I'm after some opinions on a setup I'm thinking of running and what you all think, i.e performance whether something isnt suitable and whether I should think of additional changes. Currently i have a stock 5k in front of a 4 speed and this is my plan. Use will be a bit of a weekend fun car, not a cruiser or anything. Bit of fun action in the dandenongs on the weekend! Engine Tighe 104 or similar 32/36 Weber rejetted to suit other mods. Get some extractors at some point after this also Driveline Getting the flywheel lightened with a HD clutch k50 behind this just for the overdrive So if anyone has suggestions of anything else i should do or not do that would be appreciated Thanks

don't get those, they'll have fwd offset and look shit. Go find an early saab 900 as they had 15 x 6's with the right stud pattern. They look like interceptor rims. I think they have to be pre 89 as after that the stud pattern changed.

Rolling Along has his facts wrong then. 253 has a 3.625" bore and the 308 has a 4.0". I have a 253 in my other car, and a 308 for a rebuild and i've researched it enough to know. The minor difference in mass between 4 inch pistons and 3.625 inch pistons has no real effect on the revving of the engine. Its all about the condition and the parts anyway. But seeing as so many parts are interchangable between the 2 engines your better of doing mods to a 308 as it will have more effect than trying to make a powerful 253.

Definitley get the 308. 253's and 308's have the same stroke and rev just as hard plus you can't go wrong with more cubes! A well tuned 308 will always out pull a 253, plus if you wanted to you could also go down the path of a 355 stroker and some VN Efi heads, turbo etc etc, go crazy! Some thing along the lines of this beast Blown Corolla

I'm after some performance parts for my 5k, just wondering if anyone can recommend some place to look around Melbourne. I'm after a new cam with a bit more performance as I'm sticking a 32/36 weber on. Also interested in getting some extractors and a new exhaust. What size would be best when running a mild cam and a weber? Cheers

For the above post yeh i do use photoshop and pretty much taught myself, its just a matter of tracing mostly, but the text manipulation took a while. Luckily the text they use is very close to Arial so i just manipulated those to get the almost spot on. I'm gonna have a go at getting the comma right and finding a more suitable comma and M.