Victim

Go for it mate. Nothing wrong with a Honda (we'll all grudgingly admit) in terms of a car for your daughter... It's not like she'll be concerned with things such as FWD understeer or torque curves. Other than that, they've got power when they need to, they don't look too bad, and as long as you treat them well they'll last a fair while, although finding a CRX, like Redwarf has pointed out, that hasn't been riced up to the nines is usually hard, but if you've found one that defeats that problem. But as someone above pointed out, they can be a bit annoying to problem solve (i had one of those 96 EK hatchback ones for a while)... Went ok, but i found them a bit fiddly and picky to work on. Nothing you couldn't overcome with patience, but just worth mentioning.

Yo all. Building me up a straight ghetto AE71 for 90% daily work, 10% possible drifting practice. So in this case, i have a few questions in regards to surge tanks. - Does the AE71 standard fuel tank have no baffling as standard, designating the need for an external fuel pump + surge tank setup? - If i was to place the surge tank in the boot, is it ill-advised to have my battery relocated to the boot as well? A hypothetical situation i was thinking was spark from battery into enclosed space of boot + petrol vapour = bang. - If that is not / should not be a problem, are there legality concerns in regards to the above setup on the street? Would this then make the car unroadworthy? (I am in NSW). Thankyou kindly... - Alex.

Very nice, big fan of the old-school 2-door wagons. It's like a bastard lovechild between an adub MR2 & a station wagon. All the fun, none of the impracticality!

Haha nice, that's sick. That + the sidchrome spanner set are sick scores. Yeah i haven't ever found jack in the cars i've bought, although i did score my AE71 with the previous owners e-tag (took me many a day trip over the Sydney Harbour Bridge with that one) and in another car i found a CD of random Pakistani music pronouncing it "PAKISTANS GREATEST MUSICAL ALBUM EVER!". (i listened to it, it was shit.)

pimp spec brown! mad props.

Whilst i usually avoid anything FWD (nuts to understeer i say), that is probably the hottest AE82 i've ever seen, big props for that one. That's the goods, been done proper. Oh and this whole 'voted best car' idea is great, but along the same lines as the december = paddock bashers idea, i'd like to see some gritty project / drift missles that look like arse but are obviously built for a purpose. i.e. a shithouse looking patchy paint / surface rusted AE71, pop the bonnet, immaculate engine bay with a gorgeous polished 4AGE, real sleeper styles. (shameless self props there, but you get the idea, doesn't have to be my ride, i'm just a big fan of workhorses where more attention's gone into the engine than paint jobs).

Not personally, but you could've just jacked it up + propped it on stands, unbolted the engine + attatched it to a shed roof of some description, then kicked the stands out?

I managed to pick up one for $10 on eBay, in great nick too. Didn't even need to be rechromed / polished. I think mine's the concave one though, with the red painted centre? A bit different to the ones you've got here.

I would have sex with that engine bay. I'm not even joking.

AC no doubt. but Kiahn hit the nail square on the head. Don't bother changing it to a 4K when a 4AGE is easier and will return greater divedends in the long-run. Just revel in it's crap carby power and ability to laugh off anything like valve knocks and nitrous till you've saved up the $$$ to swap the the 'ol 4AGE. And when that time comes, this forum's great for technical advice + write-up's on such a build as it's common as, on account of it being so easy. Everyone has done it. Everyone. Or you could go my way of wanting something a little different, and dropping in a 4AGZE, upgrade the supercharger to an SC14 + twincharging it... but hey, that's just me. 8/ Best of luck yo!

AMEN! Haha... and whilst you're at it, get a boost gauge. And don't give me this "my car is NA" crap, you don't go fast unless you've got a boost gauge. And the best places to mount them are always the most inconvenient ones. Matter of fact, my cuzzin cut a hole through the windscreen of his VL turbz to mount his gaugez. He even altered the shift light to change it to a Dolphin torch with a red globe for maximum shiftability! pssssssshhht flutterflutterflutter. And stock up on BOV's. hahaha... ahhh... VL turbz. But on a serious note, what exactly are you asking? Do you mean what kind of tacho will be compatible with the KE30? Or just a general aesthetic question? I'm assuming you're asking what brands will *work* in your KE30 as you've placed this thread in the 'general mechanical' questions area, so in short pretty much all aftermarket tacho's will work for you as long as you install them correctly. If nothing else / for peace of mind, ask wherever you're buying it from if it'll work. I.e. "mr. repco, will this AutoMeter Pro ShiftLightWank Ricer 3000 work in my KE30?" At the very least you'll be able to take it back. And just a tip, having a tacho that measures to 12,000rpm automatically enhances your engine to actually rev to 12,000rpm, it's a fact. Actually it'll make it rev to 13,000rpm because if you don't hit the redline regularly you're not a real racer. For lyfe!

p.s. sorry for the essay post, but i wanted to get cracking on this as soon as possible. It's hard to just look at the old girl sitting in my carport in an undrivable state!

Good point, although i know the bloke flogging it so it's not a random trying to flog shonky parts, and i'd take his word for it that all it needs is to be reassembled to be put back to good working order. Hence my interest in using it, considering the $100 price tag, even with the price for reassembly + mounting point fabrication would work out cheaper than buying one complete. But that was before i heard about this large-scale IRS conversion... So my two options are basically thus: buy disassembled Supra diff, pay to have reassembled + mounting points fabricated. Then pay for this IRS conversion & fabrication, which has been mentioned to be hella large ammounts of the $$$. Anybody got a rough figure or an idea on what that would set me back? Or, door two: R31 diff... possible shortening (although i doubt i'd go to that extent, to be honest) which entails positive offset wheels then flared guards. Ah, for sure. Cheers for that, i wasn't aware they were there. I shall keep my eyes out for threads over there for some knowledge + vendors flogging such parts. You (or anybody) wouldn't happen to know what types of Supra's have the required W-series boxes? I found an '84 Celica Supra for wrecking on the heaps cheap, and it would be good if those parts were compatible / that model had the correct gearbox... I'm not too sure where to check these things. Yeah... more $$$ sucks, in short. So to be honest, i doubt i'd go to the effort of shortening an R31 diff. Which leaves me with the alternative of really positive offset wheels, and then flared guards...? In that case, by how much does the R31 diff extend length-wise over the stock diff? Is it a large ammount, or just enough to be noticible, or only a slight ammount? If it's not that noticible, would it be feasible to get away without shortening it? And following once again on the R31 diff front, how easy is it to install? A matter of a bolt-in job, or is it going to be a real prick? Hahahaha... ahh, you've got no idea the ammount of people that say that. To be honest, i want to keep it as stock looking as humanly possible. As little attention as this car initially gets from a glance is what i want to achieve (especially from the 5-0). Plus i like the stock rims for some reason. They've got old-school gang bangin' corolla cred, and i also can't justify spending money on things that look nice over hardXcore engine bits. I've never put much chop in showy cars, i like the sleeper look. And any money i save from bits like wheels and the like goes into usefull things like what i'm trying to do here, which i feel is a better use of it, but i see your point. Ah, derro spec. Hahaha, great call. Currently though it does look a little 'derro spec', primer spots all over the shop. That'll change once all the surface rust has been removed and primed + painted over, but i can't really be shagged to find the proper colour paint so i'm eye-balling paint matching (and getting it hopelessly wrong might i add... Bunnings has very few paints that match faded silver). Cheers for the continued help guys, very very much appreciated. E-beers on me. - Aleks.

Ah, fair enough... So, even with my dirt-cheap $100 supra diff, it still won't work out in my favour, taking into account the fabrication needed? Yeah, looks like the Supra W box is a winner. Would you happen to know a rough price figure i'd be looking at? And who, if anybody, sells these custom parts to make it bolt-in? Lovely, disc rear's is definately a plus. One of the boxes i wanted to check in the upgrade. Hahaha... yeah... maybe you're right. But even so, i'd like to do it. Call me crazy... I have a few reasons for wanting this as inconspicuious as possible, are we talking about the R31 diff and it's length making it more conspicuious so that it's poking out the sides? Or the overall engine? And i want to keep the stock AE71 rims which are pretty positive offset as changing the wheels screams 'modified car', something i want to avoid at all costs, but some slight flaring we can do. Bolt on SL/R 5000 looks ftw!

Yeah, i have seen many people go the Hilux option of diff's, i presume just for their rugged toughness. So in saying that, is the Hilux diff going to stand up to such power and be a reliable option? I'd rather not go with a band-aid solution and have to keep replacing them, rather do it right the first time and then forget about it. On another note, when you say IRS conversion, what exactly is needed to complete it? What is needed to change, and how big of a job is it? Yeah, so i've heard haha. But it seems a waste of a good SC and it'll be something a bit different. If all else fails i'm going to set up the system for the overall power of the upgraded SC14 and the turbo initially, so if it's still an option later down the track there'll be minimal work required to bung the turbo on top, if not, no harm no foul. Haha yeah, that's what i'm getting the impression of. Kiss my cheap project goodbye haha, although i've been blessed with finding much of the crap i've needed so far for good deals, and i'm patient if it means doing it right. You mention it's not the option to go down if you're after the cheap, would the cost be offset somewhat by already having the SC12 and using the deal on the diff i've been offered below? Or where would the majority of the money be going even after said options already being in my posession? Just looking at my options and where i'm going to need to focus. I've been offered a W series Supra diff for $100 from the same guy as mentioned above, although it's in pieces. So i'd have to take it to a diff shop and get them to reasemble it, then presumably take my existing diff and get them to fabricate some mounting points using the original one as a template. I'm giving it some serious thought, as it will work out nowhere near as expensive as a working Supra diff to begin with. So, assuming i'm going to run with the R31 diff (to keep my options open), when you say it's not as strong, would it be strong enough to perform reliably for an extended period? Keeping in mind this is going to be my daily, so i'm not going to be punting it around the track. Maybe the occasional bit of drift as i'd like to get into the sport, but it'll be a daily first and foremost. As mentioned above i'd rather go for an option that provides me a long-term solution, rather than have to keep replacing the things which'll end up a costly headache and be time consuming (and time's money homie!) And lastly, is the W series Supra box my only real feasible gearbox option? Ah thanks guys, you're both legends. I would have no clue if it wasn't for you two. Much respect and e-love. - Aleks.

Hello hello all... If i had a RollaRides thread, i'd point you in it's direction. But i don't, so i shall just explain my intentions haha. Picked up an AE71 off eBay for the grand total of $325. Have the intention to learn as i go, have some fun, do it on the cheap etc etc, common story. The car itself has a great interior, clunky as hell automatic trans, couple of deep rust parts that have now ben repaired... overall not as much damage as expected, mostly consisted of surface rust + a bit of a dented front which is to be cured with my newly acquired apron bar. Furthur down the track (once i get it back registered and with a year to kill) i have been offered a 4A-GZE engine in good nick for a cheap-as-chips mate hookup, that comes with an SC12. My future plans are, in a nutshell, to install the 4A-GZE, replace the crap automatic to convert it to a manual transmission, upgrade the SC12 to the SC14 for a bit more low-end kick, twin charge by adding a medium-sized turbo (nothing stupidly sized and there shall be no BOV's around here psssssht flutter flutter) and upgrade the rear diff for a disc diff to get rid of the drum brakes for some increased stopping power (as well as obvious things like suspension, big brakes upgrade etc etc). But my original plans for getting hold of a T50 gearbox and possibly a sprinter disc diff and just bunging those in were cut short when a man more knowledgable than me said the T50 wouldn't be able to handle that much power from a twin-charged engine for anywhere near long enough, and the current diff / a sprinter diff would probably shit themselves as well. He then suggested the S / W (i cannot remember) series of Supra gearboxes & diff's, but a new Supra diff alone nudges a thousand bucks... So my question stands in two parts as thus: 1. If anyone knows, what would be the best kind of diff and manual transmission to withstand the power of a twin-charged 4A-GZE in an AE71? 2. If the answer is a Supra, would the diff + tranns from an 1984 2.8 Supra Celica be up to the challenge? Thank you all for your help, i'm constantly impressed with this site's community atmosphere. :yes: - Aleks, aka Victim.

Hahahahaha, what a site. what my AE71's always needed! A car to tank kit! Why bother with twin-charging a GZE when i can just blast opponents with surface to air missles??? and the best bit:

Nah mate, valid question. I was toying with the idea myself, because ever since i saw some ad for a Subaru where the needles in the gauges kind of 'self-test' when you turn the car on (i.e. they flick from right to left and back / from 0km/h to top km/h then back) i thought that was pretty neat-o and wanted to replicate it. Although i wouldn't have a clue how to do it.

Avoidin' the law. I like your style :y:

Oh, no way! That's one touch looking ride. Extremely jealous! And that Skyline exhaust note is porn. Pure, pure porn. mmm...

Yeah i did read that somewhere... The engine's actually in the boot and they had problems fitting it all so they had to remove the turbo? Something along those lines. Have you seen the youtube videos for the trucks they use to steal the petrol? Crazy, crazy utes. Minitruckin' be damned, i'd rather have a Chev than can do duel-wheel burnouts!

On point, +1 to every point said here. On another note, i wouldn't know anything about valuing a car mate, but fingers crossed you don't need to make such a sacrifice and that your job remains on solid ground. I wish you and your fam all the best of luck for the uncertain future... - Aleks.

Rise.

Crookers mix from Coachella - 18.04.2009 If anybody is into that sort of thing, PM me and i'll drop you a link to a place to get all the latest & greatest mixes on the nix.

the 'Iron Mask' DR30 Skyline. Mmm.. two-tone & flares. I've always had a soft-spot for muscle, like any SL/R 5000. Mmm... drop fuel-tank & bolt-on guards. The Ford XB Coupe... Mmm... matt-black Mad Max inspired. The Ford Gran Torino, for it's semi-ugly uniqueness: But one of my all-time favourites is the turbo powered Buick Grand National, specifically the GNX. If i could have any car, this would be up in the list. Which was briefly featured in the latest Fast & The Furious movie (although even they didn't have the heart to wreck one, let alone several real ones on account of them being so rare these days, so they just used non-GNX models, tarted up with fibreglass & GNX bodykits: Now if anyone has these cars on hand and would like to donate them to me, please PM me, and i'll gladly reply. ;) Have a nice day!