GJM85

Really not necessary mate. Many thanks any how.

Pm'd

I could never get my 5k to run right with a 4K carb. Not enough air or fuel at idle. So I went with a DGV Webber.

Cut out or missing under part throttle is usually associated with lean or short fuel supply. This can be a direct fuel supply issue in relation to a faulty pump, blocked filter or some such. This fuel starvation is usually more prevalent under full engine load or heavy throttle. Or as before a vac leak will cause fuel ratios to lean out as air gets it where it shouldn't. And vac leaks are most prevalent under idle and part throttle when the manifold vacuum is greatest.

Vacuum leak around the manifold or carby.

I reckon it's the old denso points dizzy and the mechanical advance mechanism is all worn out.

20 degrees is like a lot of ignition advance. With a stock 4k dizzy all in would be around 48*. I run a Tighe 154 cam which is not as aggressive as yours. I had my dizzy regraphed it's set at 10* initial and 32 all in at just under 3000rpm.

Mine runs 10.6:1 and always seems to blow between cylinders 2-3. Not bad enough to cause engine failure but enough to create a knock and some uneven idle vacuum. That's how I know when it's gone.

All engines and running condition differ to greatly to be able to say. I'd start with the carbs base setting and go from there. Main- 140/135 Air- 165/160 Idle- 55/50 Power jet is a constant, as is the pump jet. You'd be hard pressed to find any different sizes for those two. I have a hot 5k and use pretty much the above setting with the only alteration being the primary main jet at 145.

I'd say a collapsed or locked lifter.

Yeah around there is safe. Peak power is probably around 4800rpm though.

She sounds tough. I reckon those wheels will look pretty good on the ground.

If it's EFI I'd leave it stock unless your going with a tuneable EMS. If it's carburettored, you could keep it standard hydraulic gear. Get your original cam reground with a midrange hydraulic profile, get the stock lifters surfaced and have your rocker posts machined accordingly to maintain correct valve lash. This would avoid the pain in the arse head/pushrod/lifter nightmare so many find themselves in. Keep the rest of the engine standard with the exception of a decent set of headers and exhaust. If you have all the pollution spaghetti still intact, keep it all as original as possible. "Pollution gear" as its referred to is like a self tuning vacuum operated computer system. Contrary to popular belief these spaghetti systems self regulate fuel mixtures utilising temperature and dynamic vacuum pressures and 90% of the system is enrichment device. The only real detriment is the EGR system which you'll need to blank if you go with extractors. If your not having any of it I'd suggest getting a tuneable carb. Weber DGV for instance. Last recommendation would be having your distributor recurved to suit the new application.

These shims are something that really should be supplied as part of the set. And after fitting shims to the trial head I'm very very satisfied with the outcome. For the 15 sets that I've made, I'll pretty much break even and cover materials to produce another 15 sets. I may increase the price slightly for the next batch to cover some labour. Although I have had no further interest to justify making anymore. 4 sets remain sold pending payment.

80 brass shims almost there.

Can't buy it. Gotta make it.

The spacers I’ve made are not guaranteed to fit perfectly in your rocker assembly. There are literally too many variables for me to be able to turn out the perfect set without having your head and assembly on my bench to work off. The big issue to look out for when using spacers is binding. Binding occurs when the pushrod/rocker/valve move out of alignment. The camshaft and the valve spring apply load to the rocker which is transferred to the shaft. True alignment will minimise resistance, wear and valve train noise. Poor alignment will cause the rockers and shaft to wear unnaturally & will also create a friction point against the spacer. With that, the rocker spacers should be shimmed to minimise lateral movement of the rockers on the shaft and to maintain alignment. Firstly you need a mark or datum where your rocker posts sit naturally before you remove assembly. Remove the assembly and dismantle it making sure to maintain the order of the components on the shaft. Reassemble the whole lot with the spacers Refit the rocker assembly with the rocker posts in their original positions. Use a feeler gauge to measure the total clearance at each spacer. This will determine the shim size you’ll require. As an example, I had .023” @ 1st spacer, 0.025”@2nd & 0.025” @ the 3rd. So I’m using a 0.020”(0.5mm) brass shim at each spacer. I understand shims are bloody hard to find. Especially 20mmOD/16mmID shims at varying thicknesses. So I’m going start supplying 0.5mm shims with spacer sets. A number of sets have already been posted so I’ll get the shims out to you as soon as possible.

Cheers mate. It was a bit of an after thought. The old, what if's? I just spent almost an hour writing up a bit of a 'how to' and the bloody page refreshed. So I a bit devo about that. The first lot are packed for post any how and I'll have the mrs at the post office tomorrow. I'll have another go at the little write up tomorrow arvo.

This is something that, in hindsight, I should have said at the very beginning. I feel it's very important for everyone who has purchased a set of spacers or intends to. Please understand that I am not responsible for your engine. What you do to your engine is your responsibility & I am in no financial position to be warranting this product or your engine should you choose to use it. In saying that, I am using these spacers, the exact same I have offered to you, without complications. Rocker spacers may or may not be a necessary modification for your engine. It's up to you if you choose to use them and if your unsure, Google is your friend. I After this post I will do my best to explain how to install these spacers and the rocker gear to avoid complication in valve train. For those who have already payed for a set of spacers and are now concerned that these spacers are not for you, please contact me and we can organise a refund. Many thanks Gavin

Today was a very busy day. Over 10 hours straight on the lathe. I'm ʞ©$ɟed, but I got all I planned plus all the extras done.

Well at least that makes 2 of us.

Hey Stuart, Thanks you for your condolences. Hardest part of life is losing family & it's something we all must endure at some point. I looked at the brass tube and the closest size was 3/4 16G (19.05 ODx15.79 bore). This would have definitely been cheaper and easier to put out the finished product. But the design I've chosen put the overall diameter of the spacer at 20mm with a 16mm bore which gave me the extra wall thickness to cut chamfered inner and outer edges whilst maintaining good contact area on the ends. Smoother and larger contact area means the cast iron and the brass are less likely to form friction points and the chamfers should still allow plenty of lubrication between the 2 surfaces. The magic of brass. Resistant to friction, self healing, soft yet durable.

I finished the first official set today but i didn't get as far with the rest as I'd hoped. I sorted out a bit of a production method with the help of my brothers so hopefully I can get the other 9 sets done for next week. This is the finished product.

Well it is a good mug!