GJM85

It's certainly a neat little rig.

You should use a gasket on both sides of the heat plate(insulator). You shouldn't need any vacuum hoses connected to the dizzy with that camshaft. Although the engine appears to idle smoother with manifold vacuum to the distributor, it's actually just idling faster and makes it difficult regulate idle speed. With 10 degrees base timing and the manifold vacuum on the distributor it will have about 20 degrees advance at idle. 10 degrees advance is good base timing. Idle would be ideal around 1000rpm. No higher. Possible vacuum leaks aside, I believe your biggest problem will be fuel starvation at idle. A cam with 280 advertised duration will have considerable overlap, poor compression, low vacuum and an uneven idle so keeping the keeping a rich idle mixture will help a lot.

Brilliant. I just spent the last hour reading up on making my own kit. I couldn't make it myself for less. Cheers Reed!

They're just a cheap 160mm 100w h3 lights. I had them on my ae92 seca about 8 years ago. I'm gonna swap to the Narva 150mm spot beams as soon as I can. Keeps it looking tidy. Options are quite limited with space restraints on front bumper. I'd like a spot and spread beam combination in a 6" pair but they just don't make them. Any smaller and there's no real lighting gain. Any bigger and they interfere with grill and you can't tilt them up enough. LED's are an option but the price isn't right and they just don't look the part. It's been recommended the I get the headlights on relays to brighten things up also.

I think they were just trying to drive me away from the recore and into buying a whole new unit from them. Just too damn expensive. On a side note, my brother bought one of those Chinese ebay alloy radiators for his patrol. It lasted 5 months before it split at one of the welds. He had a 1.1bar cap on it because the 0.9bar cap kept letting fluid out. And the radiator popped. That's what we think happened anyhow. Now he has an ADRAD.

I think they were just trying to drive me away from the recore and into buying a whole new unit from them. Just too damn expensive. On a side note, my brother bought one of those Chinese ebay alloy radiators for his patrol. It lasted 5 months before it split at one of the welds. He had a 1.1bar cap on it because the 0.9bar cap kept letting fluid out. And the radiator popped. That's what we think happened anyhow.

I was quoted $550 to recore my ke20 rad to 3 core. Just went with a ke70 ADRAD unit from ebay for 285$ from memory. It's worth upgrading the radiator cap also.

New tune. No vac advance at all. Just 10 degrees base timing. Carb is tuned with 55/55 idle, 165/160 air & 150/145 mains. Idle mixture is turns out and idle speed is 1&1/2 turns in. Idle is lumpy but relatively even with moderate manifold vacuum at 1000rpm. I think the camshaft could have been fitted with about 2 degrees advance instead of just fitting it straight up but maybe next time. Today I fitted an old set of 6" Monza spot lights I've had for years. One lense is cracked so I'm on the hunt for another set. At least the wiring is done now. With the on set of winter and dark morning runs to work on Kangaroo hazard roads I could do with the extra visibility.

Beautiful car mate. I'm all jelly.

Flywheel. You have to lighten the flywheel!

Initial advance of 10* + 25* mechanical is 35* all in. If you have an initial of 18* & those 4k dizzy's have about 30* mechanical advance, your heading up to 48* all in which is likely too much. If you are getting detonation at 5000rpm you likely won't notice or hear it over the engine noise. How you determine the correct rate of mechanical advance is done through trial and error. Unless you have the correct equipment, like the shops do.

I'd say it's definitely a timing issue. Though, cams with that duration need a bit more a advance earlier on and a bit less over all. For instance, my camshaft is pretty close to those specs. Static timing is 10*, it advances quickly and is all in at 35* by 3000rpm. No vac advance. Peak is about 6500rpm but it does keep going. Distributor was reco'ed & regraphed by Performance Ignition Services in Vic for $270.

Toyota is funding a new cup next year utilising the new 86. It will piggy back on a number of V8 Supercar events. "Neal Bates Motorsport, owned by the four-time Australian rally champion, has developed and tested a race package that includes suspension, brakes, extractors and exhaust, ECU, oil cooler, rims and tyres as well as mandatory safety gear." http://www.toyota.com.au/news/toyota-and-v8-supercars-pro-am

Yes. Yes it will. It'll be a tad long though.

The knock at idle is likely bottom end. Possible the big ends have bit to much side to side action on the crank journals. My set up is almost the exactly the same. I also have knock at idle that disappears once revs increase. As for the miss fire or stumble, I'd say carby and ignition timing. What carb do you run? Is you dizzy graphed to suit the camshaft?

More resistance in ignition components creates a higher current draw on the vehicles electrical system. The theory being, the higher the current requirement, the shorter the part life. Taking away the 'fine tuning' concept, spark plugs & leads will either work or they won't.

Something in regards to the electronic distributor with inbuilt ignitor. They've got two ding dangs on the vacuum advance unit On my particular distributor which is a Nippon Denso original recently rebuilt by Performance Ignitions, the dinger on top pulls 10 degrees advance and the dinger on the front pulls 15 degrees advance. Which do you use & where do you source the vacuum? Manifold or ported/timed vacuum? On a stock or slightly modified engine with good idle vacuum the vac advance unit can be used to boost take off and low end throttle response. Increasing low end torque and fuel economy at cruise speed. For this ported vacuum, also known as timed vacuum, is tapped from a lower vac port on the carburettor just above the primary throttle plate. As the throttle begins to open, engine vacuum pulls the advance unit diaphragm adding timing degrees at take off or part throttle. On highly modified engines, with larger camshaft profiles and poor idle vacuum, the vac advance unit can be used to boost idle vacuum by adding degrees to the engines idle advance. For example. An engine with a 270 advertised duration camshaft, or more, will suffer a dynamic compression loss at idle causing inconsistent and unreliable idle or engine hunting, excess engine loading and poor fuel economy. Using the vacuum advance to pull extra timing at idle will do amazing things for you. Here's the benefit of the two ding dang advance unit. I use manifold vacuum on the front stem to pull an extra 15 degrees assisting at idle, 10 degrees static +15, and I use the ported vacuum on the top stem to pull 10 degrees advance on take off and cruise assisting with throttle response and fuel economy.

My 5k eats hyundai's all day.

I've been having trouble with idle and take off. I've spent the last month trying different jets and settings but no getting no headway. I'll get it running good then the next day it's piss poor and so on. Really poor vacuum below 1500rpm due to the camshaft profile. It was idling like shit, would stumble off the line then she'd eat all her lunch at once and go like blazers. I finally cottoned on the the vacuum advance today. After reading a fair bit on the V8 forums I decided to run it from the manifold vacuum instead of ported vac off the carb. Big difference. With initial timing @ 10* it pulls an extra 5-10* at idle which increases manifold vac and smooths out the idle. As soon as the throttle starts to open vacuum drops away as the mechanical advance comes on. Happy days. On another note. More backyard engineering. I balanced my tailshaft with hose clamps. I fitted 2 clamps loosely at the gearbox end and ran it up to 120km/h on stands with the wheels off. The theory is the lock screw of the clamp will move to the point on the shaft where it's countering the heavy point on the tailshaft. Then you just lock them up where they end up. I'm not sure how accurate this is obviously but for me it's has dramatically reduced the vibration that comes on at around 110km/h.

It usually runs to the fuel pump. Some fuel pumps don't have a return spout though. If that's the case you can just block it off.

I've got the mec723 with my 5k dizzy. It works fine. I'd say aost anything off a 80's-90's toyota with an electronic ignition will work. If you search on ebay you'll find the Fuemiser CC215 electronic coil suits a very wide range of cars. And it's only about 35$.

I like them. Had a few chances now to change wheels but I just can't seem to part with them. That and I can get 175/70R13 series tyres for less than 70$ fitted and balanced. The super lite is just one of many imitations of the Mini lite designed in the 60's for competition use. But that's not really the point, considering another Australian company has but the dust. And one that makes sweet wheels makes it so much worse.

Kids these days. Where's the parents? The discepline? Decent role models? Your either born into, you learn or you pay. Pay with your life or someone else's.

If your running hydraulic lifters then yes, that is how you maintain the correct valve lash. For solid lifters there should be enough adjustment in the rocker to take up the difference.