GJM85

5k upgrade!

Cheers mate. If I haven't heard back in a week I'll go and pick it up.

The Gearbox Shop, where I dropped the 5 speed for a rebuild, have changed their tune from a week ago. I was told they'd contact me within a few days and hadn't so I dropped in to see what the go is. Old mate is sure ke70's only came with 4speeds and is sure it looks like a 4 speed. Despite the fact that I pulled it from a ke70 and used it for 18 months.... He's not sure if he can even get parts for it anymore and reckons no ones going to make any shafts for it if they're worn out. They'll need a week to look at it. What the actual ʞ©$ɟ? Bit like Pedders listing ke20 suspension part numbers on their website, but not actually stocking anything, haven't for years and have no intention of doing so.... On a lighter note, Tighe Cams turned my camshaft around inside of 24 hours so I've got that. I've got new Chev solid lifters and a gasket kit. The head and flywheel are underway. Suspension stuff should be here by the end of the week. Now chasing chasing a set of leaf springs. Ke55 set would be ace! It's going to be a busy Christmas break.

Was a struggle to get any shock absorber cartridges for the struts. No love through Pedders or anything decent so I've succumbed to the Monroe GT Gas. I can't find any bump stops or dust covers either. I dropped a cam in at Tighe Camshafts today and they've recommended the 154 for this application as opposed to the 104 I was after. So that's that. I also posted my bosch electronic distributor to Performance Ignition Services in Melbourne for a reco and recurve accordingly. Tomorrow will be picking up a gasket kit and new Chev solid lifters I've ordered and dropping some gaskets at Yatala Headworx. Also taking my spare flywheel in because it looks like it could lose a few pounds.

Don't you say things!

I've acquired a set of stock struts from a quiet member here. In the process of bringing the front end back up 25mm give or take. The plan is to give me some options in the way of bigger and wider wheels. New strut tops, KTFL28 King springs, Ford Blue strut legs and hopefully a quality short stroke insert. Any ideas? Do they even exist? This is the expected difference after the reversion. This is proving to be an expensive 25mm.

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Apparently they can get synchros. They reckon it'll be done before Christmas.

Put the 5k head in at Yatala Headworx for some love. The ke70 5 speed is in at The Gearbox Shop. Got new temp and oil senders, strut tops, ignition and lock barrels, fuel pressure gauge, windscreen washer kit on their way.

4kc pushrods are 182mm is there not enough adjustment in the rocker?

So you've got a 5k with dished pistons and accompanying head. But you converted it to solid lifters and now need pushrods to suit? Am I correct? Wait no. Gutted 5k lifters?

Because I'm a pirate. Buy this book.

My ke20 with 5k has seen $1.60 Effectively the car itself doesn't move at all. The tyres are spinning the earth beneath them making the day go faster. That's how fast the 20 is.

My money is on a cactus pump. I went through two pumps in two years and that was enough for me so I went electric.

I know the 5k carbs are the same size as the 4k carbs. I don't know about the 7k ones. The fuel jets inside the carb are larger which means more fuel. This is not necessarily a good thing if other areas of the engines performance haven't been addressed. You best bet is a 4k carb on a 3k.

New seats for the chariot. They're direct bolt in with standard rails but nowhere near enough leg room so I made adapters and moved them back 55mm. They are Autotecnica Adventurer 4x4 seats. Dimensions are almost identical to original seats.

There are a great many variables when it comes to distributors. Condition of the distributor being the biggest. The short answer is not likely.

You'll likely find a lot of people have done a lot of modification around these parts. I use a Capacitive Discharge ignition in my corolla. How do you find the ignition?

Ok ok. Here's the sore spot. I thought I had a twin carb manifold nailed a month ago on eBay. Came down to the last seconds at 8 am and someone sniped it out from under me at $51. I was willing to go a whole lot further for that manifold. No carbs. I was ʞ©$ɟing pissed off all day. Just ask my subordinates. I'll tell you. I am die hard. But I'm dead shit broke. Always will be. Its a family curse.

My offer still stands. $10!

I'm actually surprised you ninja'd that right there. I was relying on a mod to take the initiative there and scope that initial post. If you had any idea you'd wouldn't be asking your customer base how much it's worth. It's actually only worth what someone's willing to pay for it. I'm not willing to pay for it at all but I'd sure use it on my ke20 if you gave it over. Purely for the nostalgic value.

What was I thinking? I mean 'oh jolly good ol' chap'. Worth big dollars. $600 at least! I'd ebay starting bid at least twice that. Sure to fetch a fair price!

To start with tuning cannot be done with poor or inferior parts. It is impossible and will only lead you to complete and utter failure. FAILURE!!! Follow the destructions before you and your path will become clear. Key phuck up areas are distributor out of sync and vacuum leaks. Distributor/ignition: Make sure all distributor leads are in awesome condition. As well as the rotor bottom and distributor cap. Spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm. All must be awesome. Coil must be good as well as your ballast resistor if you've got one. Set your awesome condition breaker points gap to 0.45mm with the rubbing block on the high point of the distributor shaft as pictured. Carburettor/ fuel system: Again, all in top condition. Fuel filter, pump and carburettor. New fuel lines are awesome, as are carb rebuild kits. Home brand filters and regular unleaded are not awesome. Don't use either. In the below image you will see 2 screws. The screw on the base of the 'item' pictured is the idle mixture screw. It's base setting is 2 turns out from seated. Screw it in till is seats softly then back 2 turns out. Unless you've phucked around with the idle jet inside the carburettor this setting will not change. The screw at the linkage is obviously the idle speed screw. This base setting is 1 & 1/2 turns in from contact with the throttle linkage. Warm Up: Get the car running making sure your distributor in correctly. It's easy to be a tooth out or even 180 degrees out if you are not awesome. Much Iinformation for this available. http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor#Ignition Get it warm. This is necessary. Turn it off. Valve clearances: Too hard to explain here. Much info elsewhere. Make sure to get it right. http://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Valve_Clearances Timing/Idle Speed: Engine running again. Turn the idle speed screw down if needed until the engine is under 1000rpm. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose of the distributor and block it. With a timing light rotate the distributor till you've got it right at 8 degrees on the timing cover. You may need to white paint pen on the notch of the harmonic balancer so you can see that shit. Reconnect that vacuum advance hose. Check your idle speed and adjust with the corresponding screw. You should have tachometer or your not awesome. Most modern multimeters have tach settings so this may be an option. Being an automatic transmission your idle speed should be like 850-900 rpm. Recheck the timing and idle speed. That will be 150$. Photos are upside down and will be rotated once money clears.

Usually only found at exaust shops. Most shops call them extractor gaskets.