GJM85

I consider myself a patient man. 9 months of harassing and I finally got my 5k head back from the shop. Little over priced, but what can a man do. It needed some work. Blasted, 5 welds, surfaced, port matched to extractor gaskets, bowled, tapered valve guides, valves cleaned, finished, reseated, combustion chambers deshrouded, springs seats machined and assembled with Performance valve springs. Combustion chambers are 30cc, over the 4k's 34cc, giving me an estimated compression ratio of 11:1.

Well that's telling me I'm correct. The current head has comp chamber of 35cc so I'm currently at 9.9:1 When I put the new head on I'm going to elevenseez. Oh dear

I am trying to establish a static comp ratio for my 5k. I am getting 11:1 as an outcome and I'd just like to confirm this Cylinder volume Bore 81.7 & stroke 73 = 382.7cc Add comp chamber 30cc Head gasket 3.9cc Piston dish 4cc Deck height is 0 Total is 420.6cc Divided into comp chamber, head gasket & piston dish. Total is 37.9 420.6/37.9 = 11.09

Is it possible the idle jet has a blockage?

I just received a coffee mug I bought on ebay. http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-KE20-COROLLA-COUPE-QUALITY-11oz-MUG-/171465558099?nav=SEARCH To my utter amazement the image on the mugs resemble an image taken of my ke20 a few years back at All Jap Day. With obvious computer alterations, close inspection shows identical image angle, shape through the windows, alignment of the headlights, bumper and grill. I'm 100% certain this is an image of my car and I'm excited.

As for the p/n I've got no idea but I just buy packs of O rings. There's usually 2 or 3 that fit in a pack.

Well it only took 3 weeks out of Austria. But today I received a throttle shaft bearing kit for my weber. The standard bushes are so outdated.

I had mine re-curved. Much faster super rev machine.

That hose that hoops around from one side of the engine to the other needs to be removed. Thats where your heater hoses need to connect. From the firewall the lower hose connects to the water pump on the carny side of the engine. The upper hose connects to the lower thermostat housing on the distributor side.

Where on the South side?

I converted to solids. Just did it. Don't regret it. I couldn't be bothered messing around measuring cam lift, head height, blah blah blah, to determine lifter preload adjustments. I built the engine myself with only machine work done in shop.

http://catalogue.nason.com.au/listing?engineId=5358 Nason Engine Parts lists this item Lifter/Lash Adjuster/Cam Follower RHT7300 Nason Hydraulic Lifter - -

Its straight forward really. They wire up exactly the same as the MSD ignition controls I believe. I think they even have the same wire colouring. No modules required. I have a Streetfire CD ignition control (MSD 5520) with 5k internal ignitor dizzy and Bosch mec723 on my 5k.

Won't make it. I've got 9 laps in a boat at Queensland raceway at 9am.

If your looking to run a cdi type box like msd there's a little issue with the internally regulated distributors for k motors It's common knowledge we use the original dizzy wire and we add a coil positive wire for the electronic distributor. If you use an alternate ignition source for that added wire then you can use the cd box with the same wiring configuration as for a points ignition.

The alternator although under powered shouldn't be the problem as I can turn the wipers, headlights, reverse lights and hazards on and the charge light only just starts to glow. If I flick the blower fan switch on the charge light is full on. I had a look at the fuel sender unit last week and pulled the cover off. The copper coils look at little worn and black but I'm not touching it because a ke20 fuel sender is rocking horse shit. When I check the voltage at the sender unit I get fluctuation between 0 and 9v.

So after years of suffering a bodgey fuel gauge I'm over it. There's an issue with the circuit I believe bug cannot pin point it. It works but only half of what it's supposed to. When the tank is full it reads half. It worked properly for a few days when I had a bad earth connection from the loom to the chassis but my head lights didn't work. Has anyone experienced this phenomenon? Just before I commit to an auto electrician. Also the battery light comes on if I turn on the heater blower. Could these be relAted?

It's likely the accelerator pump plunger is cactus.

I just thought I'd put up a few pics of my brothers corona. He got it running yesterday. We finished a few things up today. A little more work and it's off to the dyno. It's a stripped corona with 8 point cage, 4 link rear & an unopened 1j with all the bolt ons.

I had some punks throw a fart bomb under the rolla once when I parked opposite Beenleigh High School. I'd have been pissed but it smelled like something if have done back in the day... Damn sulfur.

Extractors are recommended but not necessary.

5k

Damn Facebook fags

I have a pretty solid set if struts if your interested. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70840-the-20s-front-legs/#entry691201