GJM85

Well it only took 3 weeks out of Austria. But today I received a throttle shaft bearing kit for my weber. The standard bushes are so outdated.

I had mine re-curved. Much faster super rev machine.

That hose that hoops around from one side of the engine to the other needs to be removed. Thats where your heater hoses need to connect. From the firewall the lower hose connects to the water pump on the carny side of the engine. The upper hose connects to the lower thermostat housing on the distributor side.

Where on the South side?

I converted to solids. Just did it. Don't regret it. I couldn't be bothered messing around measuring cam lift, head height, blah blah blah, to determine lifter preload adjustments. I built the engine myself with only machine work done in shop.

http://catalogue.nason.com.au/listing?engineId=5358 Nason Engine Parts lists this item Lifter/Lash Adjuster/Cam Follower RHT7300 Nason Hydraulic Lifter - -

Its straight forward really. They wire up exactly the same as the MSD ignition controls I believe. I think they even have the same wire colouring. No modules required. I have a Streetfire CD ignition control (MSD 5520) with 5k internal ignitor dizzy and Bosch mec723 on my 5k.

Won't make it. I've got 9 laps in a boat at Queensland raceway at 9am.

If your looking to run a cdi type box like msd there's a little issue with the internally regulated distributors for k motors It's common knowledge we use the original dizzy wire and we add a coil positive wire for the electronic distributor. If you use an alternate ignition source for that added wire then you can use the cd box with the same wiring configuration as for a points ignition.

The alternator although under powered shouldn't be the problem as I can turn the wipers, headlights, reverse lights and hazards on and the charge light only just starts to glow. If I flick the blower fan switch on the charge light is full on. I had a look at the fuel sender unit last week and pulled the cover off. The copper coils look at little worn and black but I'm not touching it because a ke20 fuel sender is rocking horse shit. When I check the voltage at the sender unit I get fluctuation between 0 and 9v.

So after years of suffering a bodgey fuel gauge I'm over it. There's an issue with the circuit I believe bug cannot pin point it. It works but only half of what it's supposed to. When the tank is full it reads half. It worked properly for a few days when I had a bad earth connection from the loom to the chassis but my head lights didn't work. Has anyone experienced this phenomenon? Just before I commit to an auto electrician. Also the battery light comes on if I turn on the heater blower. Could these be relAted?

It's likely the accelerator pump plunger is cactus.

I just thought I'd put up a few pics of my brothers corona. He got it running yesterday. We finished a few things up today. A little more work and it's off to the dyno. It's a stripped corona with 8 point cage, 4 link rear & an unopened 1j with all the bolt ons.

I had some punks throw a fart bomb under the rolla once when I parked opposite Beenleigh High School. I'd have been pissed but it smelled like something if have done back in the day... Damn sulfur.

Extractors are recommended but not necessary.

5k

Damn Facebook fags

I have a pretty solid set if struts if your interested. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70840-the-20s-front-legs/#entry691201

The classic jap vehicles are harder to restore. Quality replacement parts are almost impossible to source. We've all seen the ebay crud from Honk Kong. So it means parts must be restored by hand or customised to get the quality finish. This is expensive. For muscle cars, the market is huge and there are heaps of suppliers of quality replacement parts at home and abroad. That competitive market means parts are are reasonably affordable and easy to acquire. It is definitely harder to restore a Japanese classic to a high quality. The problem is they're not as fast or eye catching as a big American muscle car.

Cheers mate, that was real help getting the wiring sorted. So I spent last night and today rewiring the loom and fitting the Denso alternator. I used starter cable as the charge wire from 'B' pole & linked it to the starter motor. I ran some 15 amp wire from the battery for 'E' pole, I used the red/white tracer from the original loom as the ignition source for 'N' pole & I used the yellow/white tracer from the loom for the charge light 'L' pole. Well it all seemed good at the battery getting 14.2v at idle but the charge light stayed on. So I checked the wiring again, checked the wiring diagram and checked everything else again. Second go. This time no charge light with ignition on, engine not running. I fired it up, 14.2v all good, I gave it a rev, 17v and not dropping. ʞ©$ɟ. Alternator is throwing sparks.... Shut her down. I'm guessing that the voltage regulator is fooked and is allowing current to earth into the body because that bitch got hot. It took me an hour to rewire the old loom over the top of the new bit and refit the old external reg alternator. 13.9v at idle, 11.9v with everything on. But only a 0.12 voltage drop in the charge circuit because of the big charge cable. So now i need to find another internal regulated alternator......

Yep so the 20 amp fuse has done the job. For now I'll leave the lights as the are. My next hurdle is going to be an alternator upgrade. I have, what I believe to be an early external regulated bosch alternator. The book says 14v & 19-27 amp at 1800rpm. I getting 13.7v with running engine at 1800rpm. I linked the B pole to the starter cable with 40 amp wire few years back to maximise charge voltage. So at best I'm likely getting around 25amp from the alternator. I'm using 9amp for the ignition at idle, 1.5amp for the fuel pump, 1-2amp for the stereo and 22amp for the head lights on high beam plus all other tidbits. I guess it's no surprise the charge light comes on when I hit the high beam. So, I have a Nippon Denso alternator, it was on my ke70 from way back when. Internally regulated, I think 14v 40amp. Correct me if I'm wrong. Still has about 7mm on the brushes. I'll need to make a new mount bracket and rewire it. Still have to figure that part out. Is it worth the conversion or is there a better option.

So I ended up drilling it out. It's a 7mm plug. I'll just turn some brass on the old mans lathe when I get the chance. On another note, I received the relay harness, Blzbub put me onto. I decided to integrate my own ground wires into the loom to the battery instead of using the earth ring things the supply for each light. As was said noticeably brighter light. But I think running the 100w spot lights off the same relay as the high beams could possibly be drawing too much current as it fried the 15 amp fuse within 5 minutes. I've fitted a 20 amp fuse. I'll see if I get to work tomorrow with out it popping.

So after a week of trying to find a mischievous fuel leak from the carb. I discovered a crack in a brass plug in the idle circuit. This leak has been a nasty bitch of a thing, leaning out my idle/progressive fuel mixtures, vacuum leak, fire hazard... I swapped all the bits over to the spare weber I have. The issue is the throttle shafts are worn pretty bad so I'd like to fix this plug. Can I just drill it out and make my own plug or is it more complicated?

I don't even hear my facet pump. Rubber mounted in the boot and positioned so it passes air easily.