GJM85

Man those ads make me feels.... Much dislike.

Well if I was eBay I'd change the rules so that if I bid on a twin carb manifold, everyone else can eat a dick. But I'm not eBay and I can't make people eat a dick. But I can get life insurance or house insurance or some shit in case a tree falls on me!

Yep eBay is shit.

Well, I hope he chokes on it...

I thought I had a k series twin carb manifold in the bag on ebay today. I was watching it end at 8am and some shit piece sniped it right out from under me at 2 seconds to go. I will DESTROY YOU!!!

I've got a 3k dizzy at home where the weight posts have worn out a divot in the guides. If goes full advance and stays there.

After all if your going to own one of these cars you might as well know how to work on them. It'sa so easy!

But in truth, it all depends how lazy you are as a driver. I'm ʞ©$ɟing lazy which is why I've only got 4 gears. 5th is like that step to far!

Wet weather clutch kicks.... Need I say more?

Jets aren't available for Aisan carbs. You can either pilfer jets from other carburettors or redrill the standard ones. If you haven't modified the engine there'd be no need to reject the standard carb. A rebuild kit would be ideal. The 32/36 weber will run on engines between 1L & 2.6L. Efficiency could be questioned. For about 60 coins you could rebuild your Aisan and learn much while doing it yourself.

I haven't separated the secondaries from the manifold yet but the 2-3 section seems to blend quite well down into the secondary pipe. There does seems to be the possibility of porting and fitting larger secondaries. The 2-3 runners are straight forward and open. The 1-4 runners seems to open up slightly after the flange. But just like the intake, larger exhaust runners doesn't necessarily mean better flow. As long as there isn't any obstruction and casting smooth, hot gas will naturally flow towards cooler lower pressure areas in the exhaust. Usually the exit.

I've been staring at this exhaust manifold for some time now. It's a piece of K series engine history that, in my opinion has been a wee bit ignored. And for several good reasons. 1. It's attached to the intake as they all are. And that's wee bit shite! 2. It's cast iron and prone to cracking. 3. They're not tube headers and that's not cool now is it? But I'll say they're just as good as most tube headers for few reasons. The majority of K series extractor manifolds are 4-1 pipe combinations with unequal length runners despite being advertised as tuned length. This negates exhaust scavenging in the collector because the negative pressure waves created by each runner expelling gas are not effectively timed or tuned. The dual plane manifold is in one sense a 4-2-1 manifold where cylinder 1 & 4 are linked into a single 1 1/4" pipe & cylinder 2 & 3 are linked. These 2 pipes then join at a collector some distance from the manifold. At this point scavenging does occur because the negative pressure waves are balanced out through the lengths of the secondary runners. 4-1 headers are ideal in high performance applications where runner length is equal and scavenging occurs in a single collector and as close to the head as pressure waves will allow. This improves performance in the mid to top end. 4-2-1 headers should use equal length runners between 1-4 & 2-3, then again between the secondary runners. The distance between the primary and secondary collectors splits the low pressure waves and increases performance in the lower to mid range. This is where the dual plane exhaust manifold come in. I've looked at the manifold in many different frames of mind. Twin turbos? Full dual exhaust straight through maybe? It's pretty well designed for what it is, although the 2-3 runners join just 3 inches from the head and the 1st runner is 12 inches long and runner #4 is 9 inches long. This difference is countered in the length of the secondary runners. 1-4 being a bit shorter at the second collector. All in all this manifold has my vote and I believe it to be just as effective as most off the shelf extractors? I think I'm going to use it on my big 5k build. Unless I can get a set of Colby's

The model number on my ke20 is ke3-5499. That's not a vin number.

I would kill to get one of these set ups.

Nuts to that man. Find a 5k then start looking for ways to upgrade it. The 2k is a paper weight.

I saw some lil ol' biddy driving a few days later.

This gives me half a mongrel....

Gavin Beaudesert Toyota Corolla Ke20

If it's a ke20 it likely wouldn't have a fuel solenoid as they only came out later. A misfire at idle could be caused by a handful of issue including incorrect initial timing, vacuum leaks, electrical shorts in the ignition system, a bent or burnt valve, poor compression the list goes on. So with that, spare us the details but with no information from what basis can assistance be rendered.

Spotted in Grand Plaza car park this afternoon. What a tidy little rig.

I'm at home. It's my birthday, I'm drinking beer. Just finished #14.

Go Stu!

So I got the Gastec LPG switch. Ninja fitment! It primes for about 3 seconds when the ignition switches to 'ON'. The fires up almost immediately when the ignition hits 'START'. The fuel pump cuts out again when the coil stops unloading no matter which way I kill the engine, Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Stu!

There is a big brass bung/nut under the fuel inlet of the weber. Inside is a gauze filter. This could be blocked or your needle and seat assembly could be jammed.