GJM85

I found a CDI with a bosch points dizzy far more effective than the electronic dizzy without going to the trouble of an ignition recurve. I use a StreetFire CDI. It cost about $170. I highly recommend it. Oddly enough I have not seen anyone else use one on a k motor. The MSD 6AL-2 Digital is a programable unit you can use with points. It effectively uses the points as a cranks angle sensor and you can program your advance curve. Dwell time becomes a thing of the past with CDI so you get big spark every time, no hot coils or burned out points adjustable rev limiter, multi spark at low rpm. I recommend the shit out of it. I've now got 6AL-1 in the shed i was gifted from a mate. Its a bit of old tech and uses a interchangeable chip type rev limiter but it's like new. It's a fair size bigger than the budget streetfire unit but output to the coil is slightly higher. For some reason they still retail around the $300 mark.

Soon we will be road raging about apples icar being a bendable piece of crap.

I have one with the internal igniter that I didn't use because it didn't work. One day I just pulled it down to see what was inside. I cleaned it and lubricated it. Then reassembled it and reset the gap between the pick up and the shaft at 0.5mm. All of a sudden it was all good. Don't know what I did but it works, although I don't use it.

Holy crap!

Backyard as ʞ©$ɟ!

New tyres today. Goodride SP06. Not a bad tyre really for 69$ fitted and balanced. New rear wheel bearings. I cut the old ones off the axles with the grinder and put the new ones on the frypan till they were hot and pressed them on with a lump of wood and a hammer. I'm in need to new horns. eBay is shit but the Denso replacements are looking the go at the moment. I'm also looking at new rotors when I'm due for brake pads soon. Are the slotted/dimpled rotors on eBay worth the extra coin? Or are the regular ones just as good?

Man those ads make me feels.... Much dislike.

Well if I was eBay I'd change the rules so that if I bid on a twin carb manifold, everyone else can eat a dick. But I'm not eBay and I can't make people eat a dick. But I can get life insurance or house insurance or some shit in case a tree falls on me!

Yep eBay is shit.

Well, I hope he chokes on it...

I thought I had a k series twin carb manifold in the bag on ebay today. I was watching it end at 8am and some shit piece sniped it right out from under me at 2 seconds to go. I will DESTROY YOU!!!

I've got a 3k dizzy at home where the weight posts have worn out a divot in the guides. If goes full advance and stays there.

After all if your going to own one of these cars you might as well know how to work on them. It'sa so easy!

But in truth, it all depends how lazy you are as a driver. I'm ʞ©$ɟing lazy which is why I've only got 4 gears. 5th is like that step to far!

Wet weather clutch kicks.... Need I say more?

Jets aren't available for Aisan carbs. You can either pilfer jets from other carburettors or redrill the standard ones. If you haven't modified the engine there'd be no need to reject the standard carb. A rebuild kit would be ideal. The 32/36 weber will run on engines between 1L & 2.6L. Efficiency could be questioned. For about 60 coins you could rebuild your Aisan and learn much while doing it yourself.

I haven't separated the secondaries from the manifold yet but the 2-3 section seems to blend quite well down into the secondary pipe. There does seems to be the possibility of porting and fitting larger secondaries. The 2-3 runners are straight forward and open. The 1-4 runners seems to open up slightly after the flange. But just like the intake, larger exhaust runners doesn't necessarily mean better flow. As long as there isn't any obstruction and casting smooth, hot gas will naturally flow towards cooler lower pressure areas in the exhaust. Usually the exit.

I've been staring at this exhaust manifold for some time now. It's a piece of K series engine history that, in my opinion has been a wee bit ignored. And for several good reasons. 1. It's attached to the intake as they all are. And that's wee bit shite! 2. It's cast iron and prone to cracking. 3. They're not tube headers and that's not cool now is it? But I'll say they're just as good as most tube headers for few reasons. The majority of K series extractor manifolds are 4-1 pipe combinations with unequal length runners despite being advertised as tuned length. This negates exhaust scavenging in the collector because the negative pressure waves created by each runner expelling gas are not effectively timed or tuned. The dual plane manifold is in one sense a 4-2-1 manifold where cylinder 1 & 4 are linked into a single 1 1/4" pipe & cylinder 2 & 3 are linked. These 2 pipes then join at a collector some distance from the manifold. At this point scavenging does occur because the negative pressure waves are balanced out through the lengths of the secondary runners. 4-1 headers are ideal in high performance applications where runner length is equal and scavenging occurs in a single collector and as close to the head as pressure waves will allow. This improves performance in the mid to top end. 4-2-1 headers should use equal length runners between 1-4 & 2-3, then again between the secondary runners. The distance between the primary and secondary collectors splits the low pressure waves and increases performance in the lower to mid range. This is where the dual plane exhaust manifold come in. I've looked at the manifold in many different frames of mind. Twin turbos? Full dual exhaust straight through maybe? It's pretty well designed for what it is, although the 2-3 runners join just 3 inches from the head and the 1st runner is 12 inches long and runner #4 is 9 inches long. This difference is countered in the length of the secondary runners. 1-4 being a bit shorter at the second collector. All in all this manifold has my vote and I believe it to be just as effective as most off the shelf extractors? I think I'm going to use it on my big 5k build. Unless I can get a set of Colby's

The model number on my ke20 is ke3-5499. That's not a vin number.

I would kill to get one of these set ups.

Nuts to that man. Find a 5k then start looking for ways to upgrade it. The 2k is a paper weight.

I saw some lil ol' biddy driving a few days later.

This gives me half a mongrel....

Gavin Beaudesert Toyota Corolla Ke20

If it's a ke20 it likely wouldn't have a fuel solenoid as they only came out later. A misfire at idle could be caused by a handful of issue including incorrect initial timing, vacuum leaks, electrical shorts in the ignition system, a bent or burnt valve, poor compression the list goes on. So with that, spare us the details but with no information from what basis can assistance be rendered.