GJM85

No wucka's!

The decision where you set your cam is really yours. A general rule of thumb is, the more advance you set, the earlier the cam comes on. Effectively increasing low end power but if you've a lot of overlap you lose efficiency The more retard you used, the cam comes on higher in the rev range giving greater top end. Would you be willing to share the cam specs with us?

I'm at work so I banged this up real quick. Unless your cam grinder gave you specifics to advance or retard the cam, you'll need a degreeing wheel to set this properly. NB: In this hastily scrawled diagram, the cam gear is 180 degrees out.

Pretty sure each hole number is a value of degrees. Not in relation to the centred hole. They relate to the teeth on the cog. If you want 2 degrees advance then the 2's on outer and inner rings on the gear should line up with the marking on the crankshaft gear.

It is a weber 32 DAR. Probably off a Renault.

You don't really need a lot of camber for road use. My ke20 came down 55mm with custom springs, modded struts and T3 RCA's. Camber has ended up with something uneven in degrees with no way of adjustment. The local tyre guy recommended elongating the holes on the strut towers so the whole strut to lean over to make up the difference. Then use larger washers to cover the holes. I still haven't done anything about it. You might want to pass on the big camber if you want your tyres to last longer than 3 months. You might say it's only a weekender or a track car.... But we'll see. We shall see!

I've been looking at an AEM gauge kit on eBay. It's pretty cheap @ about $170. I'm thinking of using one to tune the carb properly once the cam goes in. But as Altezza said, once it's tuned, it's done. But knowing myself as well as I do, I'll never be done...

Exedy HD is a good clutch. I've got one behind my 5k.

I'm thinking of buying a digital wideband for the Ke20. I've read a little about them on the intergoogle but I'm still a little unsure if it's money well spent. Are they worth the effort and coin? Should I get a data logger? Is there anything I should consider before I run out like a doodle berry and blow some of my tax return?

Yes. You just have to add a wire.

Also when you turn it around, it's easier to fit if you've got studs in the manifold instead of bolts to keep the carby on. That ding dang in the 2nd photo should go to the exhaust recirculation valve, which you don't have. You need to block it off some how before you'll get going.

The carburettor is on backwards. With it that way, fuel in the bowl will move away from the fuel circuit under acceleration and towards it under braking . Despite what some say, it just ain't right.

I read that the LPG switch triggers off a number pulses from the coil. A ten pulse trigger wouldn't take long to prime with an msd ignition due to the multi-spark feature.

Today I mapped the ignition curve of my Denso distributor. The brass bushes on the centrifugal weights are a bit warn out. This causes the weights to move out immediately upon rotation despite how much I play with the spring post. I guessed there'd a small loss of advance as a result, which actually shows in the graph. According to the manual, this distributor should have 15 degrees of mechanical advance with an initial setting of 8 btdc. I use 10 on my engine. So it should have 25 degrees btdc when 'all in'. I do have a Denso electronic dizzy with the internal ignitor. Could be 5k or 7k. I'll map that one day. At the moment i've got a cdi running with the points and couldn't really be farked messing around with the wiring to hook it up.

Perhaps they didn't ignore anything. I don't doubt they're different. Near on 50 years of automotive technology separates them. But if Toyota sees fit to name them in the same series, who are we to say different?

Today I mapped the ignition curve of my Bosch distributor. I'll be putting in the Tighe 104 25/65 .423" cam I have soon and I'm looking at re-graphing the distributor. From the information I've gathered its already pretty close to what is required.

Just thought i'd share a couple of photos of the Toyota Sports 800 that has been at the last couple of All Jap days here in Qld. What a neat little unit! This series of car produced between 1965 & 1969 and only 3131 unit were manufactured. The engine is a 2U-B flat 2 cylinder 790cc twin carb engine. It is actually the predecessor to the 4U flat engine manufactured by Subaru for the Toyota 86.

If reshell you must, Find a 55 with no rust. For ke70's are taboo As young drifters have made poo!

When you die, can I've you carbs?

Structural rust is one thing. This car has rust blooms coming out everywhere now. A mere 4 years since the rebuild. I'm not game to touch it. I reckon there's about 3mm of high fill over the whole body.

The LPG certainly looks like the easiest option. Thanks guys!

Turns out that extra hole is a pressure relief valve. So that ain't gonna work...

Installed a Facet solid state pump this arvo. The mechanical pump was a never ending oil leak so it had to go. So its 132L/ph @ 4-7psi pump, 5/16 fuel lines throughout, Holley red regulator and an Aeroflow pressure gauge. Drawing through 2 filters and pushing through 1, I can get just shy of 6 psi at the reg so it does quite well. I haven't wire it up yet but I'll run it off a relay until I can get an oil pressure switch. Luckily I have this little gem. An oil pick up with an extra hole.

So this spells the end of the structural rust. Thanks again to my brother Nic for his fab fab skills.

Today some structural rust repairs. Lower section of the radiator support. Purchased the panel from the New Old Car Company in Lawnton for a very fair price. Made the epic journey from Beaudesert yesterday and picked it up. Front end off. Lots of cutting and grinding. Drilled a few holes in the new part for spot welds and it's in. Benefits of brothers who are fabricators. Tomorrow will see a couple of chassis sections cut and plated.