GJM85

The LPG certainly looks like the easiest option. Thanks guys!

Turns out that extra hole is a pressure relief valve. So that ain't gonna work...

Installed a Facet solid state pump this arvo. The mechanical pump was a never ending oil leak so it had to go. So its 132L/ph @ 4-7psi pump, 5/16 fuel lines throughout, Holley red regulator and an Aeroflow pressure gauge. Drawing through 2 filters and pushing through 1, I can get just shy of 6 psi at the reg so it does quite well. I haven't wire it up yet but I'll run it off a relay until I can get an oil pressure switch. Luckily I have this little gem. An oil pick up with an extra hole.

So this spells the end of the structural rust. Thanks again to my brother Nic for his fab fab skills.

Today some structural rust repairs. Lower section of the radiator support. Purchased the panel from the New Old Car Company in Lawnton for a very fair price. Made the epic journey from Beaudesert yesterday and picked it up. Front end off. Lots of cutting and grinding. Drilled a few holes in the new part for spot welds and it's in. Benefits of brothers who are fabricators. Tomorrow will see a couple of chassis sections cut and plated.

I decided to have a look at how much fuel was returning to the tank after fitting a fuel pump with a return line. I don't know how long it's been since fuel flowed back through these lines. About 100ml came back after about 5 minutes but it was speckled with silver and black shit which has obviously been flowing into my tank for the last few weeks. So in with the $1 El' homebrando fuel filter I had laying around. It will do until I figure something else out.

Pretty sure it's a factory option for the ke20. Only the deluxe models had a tachometer in the instrument cluster.

I've got a k40 from a ke70 in my ke20 with a ke55 4.1 diff. I've experienced no issues with the speedo.

So the voltage at the instrument cluster is irregular as well. I cannot see an indication of a regulator on the cluster unit. I did notice on the green film the '7v' at the gauge terminal. So perhaps I have the wrong voltage regulator all together. I bought second hand, from this forum & installed it when I first rebuilt the car. It was marketed as a ke25 regulator. Would there be a difference?

Upon closer inspection, the temp dial doesn't sit at the same point on either cluster. Still doesn't explain the varying voltages at the senders.

This is the back of a ke20 cluster.

You need a diode in the tach signal wire. It will smooth out the jitters at all rpm on most tacos. I've got about 50 of them here. I tried marketing them once but no one seemed interested, so if you pm me some details I'll post you a few or ill bring some to all jap day in a couple of weeks, you can find me there.

I've always had issues with inaccurate instruments in the cluster of my ke20. I believe all issues are related & are as follows. #Charge light glows when wipers, reverse lights, interior fan or indicators or on. When all the above accessories are on and the car is running, voltage at the battery is 12+ volts. So that rules out the alternator. #When the fuel tank is full, the gauge reads just over half a tank. Inspection of the dial shows it's in no way bent or damaged & voltage at the sender fluctuates between 1 & 10 volts. #When the car is at full operating temperature the gauge reads just on the first line. As above voltage fluctuates between 1 & 10 volts. #The handbrake warning switch doesn't work at all and voltage is less then 1 volt. I've tried 2 different clusters and nothing changed. Oil sender works fine and has between 10 & 12 volts. It's been 2 long years I've been at this and short of pulling the whole loom, I'm all out ideas. So before I call the auto electrician, has anyone got anything? Cheers Gav

I didn't end up using the copper gasket this time. I had a steel one here so I'll get the copper one annealed for next time. Pipes are now wrapped up to the collector and coated in a can and a half of ceramic flame proof paint. I've been on two 20 minute thunder runs to cure the wrap and paint. I forgot how bad that stuff stinks. Most likely toxic.

The hyundai excels are awesome run arounds. My wife had one for 5 years and apart from servicing, only ever had to replace one radiator hose. My brother just picked up a twinky one with 220000k's for 500$ Their downfall is dismal paint and cheap interior plastics.

You reckon it'd have the same effect if I put it I a 250 degree oven?

Yeah they're big ports. Kinda wish I'd done the oversize valves back in the day. But there's always next time. Manifolds aren't on, though I don't really have access to an oxy. What's the heat do to the copper? Will it seal up neatly if I don't blow torch it?

I have now changed the ignition again. It's a Streetfire multi-spark CDI, GT40, ke70 dizzy, Champion 8mm leads and Bosch SuperPlus plugs gapped to 1.0mm. I've changed to a 5k mechanical fuel pump with a return line to try and relieve excess fuel pressure build up. I've acquired a Facet solid state electric fuel pump and a Holley regulator. I made a blanking plate so I might go ahead with that soon. I've made some changes to weber jetting and igntion timing, along with elimination a couple of vacuum leaks in the PCV system. I bought 15m of exaust wrap, so once I a get another extractor gasket, the tubes will come out and be rewrapped and sealed. Timing is now 12 degrees initial @800rpm, 32 with vacuum advance and 36 degrees all in. Jetting is 55/50 idle, 145/155 main, 165/160 air. The idle mixture screw is 1 & 3/4 out but the speed screw is at 0 turns in. I can only assume the throttle shafts are worn down to the point where it's drawing enough air to idle soundly without the plate being turned open at all. All in all the car is running the best it has, ever. I really should get it on a dyno soon.

That is what you want. Shouldn't have a problem.

But can it take the heat?

You will probably find that with the running out of the 3k motors & having an excess of under sold BP engine components, engines were assembled with end of stock parts, i.e. Big ports heads. It's likely that a single carb port matched manifold was cast up to suit these heads to clear old stocks & make way for the new 4k engine.

Yes.

Yes you have the correct coil. Gt40 has a resistance of about 3.2-3.4 ohms. Gt40R has a resistance of 1.4-1.6 ohms. Add a 1.4-1.6 ohm resistor to the Gt40R and you get around the same resistance as the Gt40. I measured these two gt coils the arvo and also checked the Mec723 with a primary resistance of 1.1 ohms. My distibutor lead has a resistance of 1.2ohms and the spark plug leads varied from 1.5 to 1.7 ohms. The whole idea behind creating a powerful ignition set up is so you can increase your spark plug gap giving a truely bigger spark.

The combination worked very well indeed. Great throttle response and plenty of power all the way past 5000rpm. Looks like I won't be buying an ignition conversion for the bosch distributor.