GJM85

This is something that, in hindsight, I should have said at the very beginning. I feel it's very important for everyone who has purchased a set of spacers or intends to. Please understand that I am not responsible for your engine. What you do to your engine is your responsibility & I am in no financial position to be warranting this product or your engine should you choose to use it. In saying that, I am using these spacers, the exact same I have offered to you, without complications. Rocker spacers may or may not be a necessary modification for your engine. It's up to you if you choose to use them and if your unsure, Google is your friend. I After this post I will do my best to explain how to install these spacers and the rocker gear to avoid complication in valve train. For those who have already payed for a set of spacers and are now concerned that these spacers are not for you, please contact me and we can organise a refund. Many thanks Gavin

Today was a very busy day. Over 10 hours straight on the lathe. I'm ʞ©$ɟed, but I got all I planned plus all the extras done.

Well at least that makes 2 of us.

Hey Stuart, Thanks you for your condolences. Hardest part of life is losing family & it's something we all must endure at some point. I looked at the brass tube and the closest size was 3/4 16G (19.05 ODx15.79 bore). This would have definitely been cheaper and easier to put out the finished product. But the design I've chosen put the overall diameter of the spacer at 20mm with a 16mm bore which gave me the extra wall thickness to cut chamfered inner and outer edges whilst maintaining good contact area on the ends. Smoother and larger contact area means the cast iron and the brass are less likely to form friction points and the chamfers should still allow plenty of lubrication between the 2 surfaces. The magic of brass. Resistant to friction, self healing, soft yet durable.

I finished the first official set today but i didn't get as far with the rest as I'd hoped. I sorted out a bit of a production method with the help of my brothers so hopefully I can get the other 9 sets done for next week. This is the finished product.

Well it is a good mug!

First 10 sets are cut and will start spinning tomorrow. I'll finish at least one set to show the finished product. At that point I will open for orders on the sales page. Taz will get the first set. Id just like to say a few things here about where this all sort of started. I'd like to give recognition where it's due. I was reading a article from '09 about a KP starlet a few weeks where the owner had purchased a good bit of original TRD KE series parts including stainless rocker spacers. Just like what's described in the TRD manual in the forum wiki. Then more recently I picked up on a comment made by TOMMYS Ke 11 on Springersrolla thread about stupid questions. That's where I got the idea to make my own. From here Taz_Rx suggested I produce a few sets and offer them out. So here we are. My dad past away on the 1st of the month after battling prostate cancer for the last 6 years. He was 68. He was an engineer and a machinist just like his Dad. He built chassis and drag cars and countless other things and I can thank him for my interest in corollas and combustion engines large and small. He started his apprenticeship in his Aunt's fabrication shop back in '63. And he has kept the lathe he learnt on. I'm going to be turning each of these spacers on his lathe. Just a drill bit, a few cutting bits, my vernier caliper and basic math. No special machines, no expensive tools. Just one at a time with what Dad tought me. So, now you know these spacers aren't some easy money gimmick. I intend to produce these items the grass roots way for a reasonable price in reach of the people who will appreciate it most.

I've sourced the brass and will pick it up tomorrow along with a few other bits to make the job bit easier. Production will likely start on Thursday and I plan to have the first 10 sets produced by the end of the weekend. I'm offering these first sets to Rollaclub.com forum users exclusively. Cost will be 55 gold coins posted.

The spacers that are in my engine have about .5mm (.020") hot clearance total between one rocker and the spacer when the corresponding pair are off load. That clearance reduces as the rockers come under load but the spacer can still rotate. I personally thought I made that lateral clearance to large so I intend to reduce that clearance to 0.2mm (.008") which will reduce the rockers lateral movement off load. But possible to much...? The shaft I measured at 15.8mm or 5/8 of an inch and the spacer bore is 16mm which allows oil clearance and clean fitment over the shaft.

I'll still make you a set if no ones interest Taz.

I'm going to turn out a few sets of these brass rocker spacers for the trusty K series. They're a straight swap for the springs and will stop your rockers from floating off the valve at high engine speed. Cost to you estimating $20-$50+ pst depending on numbers and and my costs. Any interested?

That's a good idea Si. When I turned these out I think I through more brass in the bin then what's in the spacers. 25mm solid bar. I'll get a price on some better sized material and get the ball rolling. It won't be expensive.

I machined brass rocker spacers. It's always handy to have spare stuff to test fit with.

Yeah I didn't account for your 3f lifters. 150mm would be with chev lifters.

You should not need to adjust rock post height. The cams base circle difference can be compensated with your adjustable rockers and even custom pushrod length. I can tell you right now though.... You will need a cup and ball pushrod of 150mm.

Australian's. We are among the most peaceful, honourable, labourable, loveable and caring people of the world. Yet, that makes us the weakest.... But we' are milked for it and put on show for the rest of the world as a pure display of conformity, submission and powerlessness under the guise of unity.

Stu put me onto the gastec lpg switch. It's the easiest and cheapest by far. Ebay for about 50 coins. Ignition, neg coil and then to the fuel pump. http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Safety-Switch-LPG-CNG-Gastec-/331606028232?nav=SEARCH

With ego, greed, misinformation and general incompetence it's difficult to find any satisfaction in the aftermarket car industry in general.

It really was a generous thing you did Taz and it's much appreciated. So the last couple of months I've been having issues with my clutch slipping. It's an Exedy Sports Tuff($300, 5 year ago) and it's seen about 3 years of full use and I checked it in December when I put the lighter flywheel and rebuilt 5 speed in. It looked good. I figured it'd just worn out fast so I bought a Clutch Industries R47NHD($230) and set about fitting yesterday. To my dismay it was the front seal in the gearbox leaking that fouled the clutch plate causing the slip. So a simple clutch swap turned into dismantling a good portion of the 5 speed to reseal the front bit. All done now and I'm actually really impressed with the CI heavy duty kit. It's quiet, firm and smooth and it can slip or grab hard. It's significantly cheaper & makes the previous kit seem cheap.

Unbolt and hold the pump while it's running. If the noise goes away it's the mounting. I found these pumps vibrate like crazy if they're in contact with anything hard. The soft mounts aren't fantastic either. It's been recommended to me to mount them on a slight incline so air passes through easier. I tried using a strip of rubber under the pump and it was noisy. Thus I discovered, the less the pump has contact with anything the quieter it is.

It's a copper manifold gasket. I think Taz_Rx had about 25 made and sold a few on here. I had it annealed and this is the third time it's been used. I used high temp sealant with it and it seals perfectly.

New head is on. Looking at the old head gasket there appeared to be a slight blow through between cylinder 2 & 3. The likely source of the odd knock it developed recently with combusting gases in cylinder 3 igniting compressing gases in cylinder 2. Firstly a comparison of ports. The first is DIY from 5 years ago. The second is professional. A marked difference at $110p/hr for the port & combustion chamber work. And just a few from the day. I'll fire it up tomorrow.

Today I set about swapping over to the new head. I cleaned the piston tops in the engine and did my best to cc them. With 5mm in a ceringe and a small fish tank lid I managed to fill the piston top with fair amount of leakage so I'm calling it a 4.5mm dish. With that I measured the combustion chambers in the head coming off at 35cc, measured the old gasket at 0.9mm and confirmed the zero deck clearance and bore size The total displacement is 1533cc. Previous compression was 9.54:1 & the new comp is 10.63:1

I'm hoping to come in around 10.

I measured 2 4k heads here and both had 35cc comp chambers. The 5k head I just got back from the shop is 30cc. I have a used set of factory aisin pistons from a 5k and came in at 4cc. The Nason Automotive pistons currently in the engine could be larger. The gasket I measured is an unused Fuelmiser item and is 1mm at the ring. I deducted .25mm for compression. When you put oversize pistons in an engine compression naturally increases. But you are right. It will likely be lower. I haven't yet had the chance to measure my pistons or a used gasket.