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Kebin

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  1. Kebin
    Its been over two years since the last update. Not much has happened, i have put the wagon into storage while i sidetracked and concentrated on other things/cars. Recently i picked up a 3sgte manual box from Ichiban in Moorebank. They reckon its from an ST185 GT4. To my surprise when i compared the 3sgte box against my spare ae95 box, there was so many similarities that its not funny! Even brackets/mounts appear to interchange. Heres my ST185 VS. AE95 pics: With the ae95 vacuum difflock attached: Without: st185 transfer case: ae95 transfer case: ae95 gearbox mount: st185 gearbox mount: ae95 speedo drive and gearshift cable bracket: st185 speedo drive and gearshift cable bracket, note the electric speedo drive attachment:
  2. Kebin
    Added a pinstripe between the two tone: Out cruising with the Radrollaz crew:
  3. Kebin
    A couple more random pics from the Air Suspension build: The wrenchman…. couldnt of done it without him Some guard rolling: For everyone that kept telling me to lower it… is that low enough? ;) Wheel alignment:
  4. Kebin
    Cont. I was able to tuck all the electrical and air fittings under the the front of the back seat in between the frames. Surprisingly the back seat base fits over everything snugly. Next thing to do was test the air compressors and the pressure switch making sure they cut out when the tanks filled up. Initially all was good until the compressors cut out and all the air leaks could be heard. Another hour spent re-tightening all air fittings and checking for leaks. Finally it was time to test the system. I was surprised at how quick the car moves up and down. I had a feeling the sway bars would resist the airbag force but the bushes must be worn or something. Now all to do was fit the interior back in. Video: [video]https://photos.app.goo.gl/EB7CtaeyTSJOcGSi1[/video] [video]https://photos.app.goo.gl/MBDE78fK7VnXKQCv1[/video] And there you have it.... Height adjustable suspension at the flick of a switch.
  5. Kebin
    Cont. Mounting the valves for each corner was the next mission. For the rear valves I tucked them under the car beside the fuel tank. The airlines come up through rubber grommets in the floor and continue to the airbags and air tanks. To mount them I had to drop the fuel tank. The front valves were a little more trickier to fit. I mounted them behind the front bumper in front of the tires. The fittings I got were identical so I couldn’t make a left and right side set so I had to make do with what I got. Wiring up the interior:
  6. Kebin
    Cont. After some adjustments while up on the hoist, we were able to determine the lowest point the suspension could sit without causing “too” much damage. After Tuckshop was finished modifying the suspension I brought the wagon home for me to finish off the plumbing and electrical… pretty much the rest of the job. They plumbed up the airbags and filled them with air so I could drive home. Most kits come with a single 5 gallon tank but I wanted to keep my boot space so I sourced a couple of smaller 10L steel tanks. Between them they added up to just over 5 gallons. I first had them acid dipped to clean them up. I then had to weld stands onto the tanks to mount them where I wanted them in the rear foot wells. I spent a week designing and installing the rest of the setup in the wagon. I tried to hide as much as possible as I could so I wouldn’t lose the cargo area in the rear. I’m running twin viair 480c compressors and mounted them inside the side walls of the boot to tuck them out of the way.
  7. Kebin
    ok ok i know many have been waiting for this..... {Pop, Lock, and Drop It} Next up was Suspension. Since my wagon is technically a 4wd, I might as well try to use it somehow, You know have the best of both worlds and stuff. Height adjustable suspension is where its at these days being more affordable to the average car enthusiast…..Not me though after searching and searching for a suitable height adjustable coilover the end result was nothing available. To custom build a height adjustable suspension setup would cost way too much and I might as well fit air suspension….. So I did :p I emailed all the airbag businesses around Sydney and the only shop that was helpful was Tuck Shop Customs in Seven Hills. They were able to explain and answer all my questions and were all too happy to help. I chose to go with a FBSS setup using ½” airlines. The wagon runs a live axle diff in the rear and shock/struts in the front. Fitting the airbags required multiple modifications to the existing suspension. The rear diff required both the bump stops and spring perches cut out. The bottom perch wasn’t flat so a flat plate had to be welded to the diff where the original perch was so the airbags could be bolted to the diff. The bump stops also had to be drilled and cut out as they were the wrong shape. A spacer was made up so that the top of the airbags could be mounted without fouling on the body above the diff. The front suspension required complete struts to be made up. They come as a pair in a “build it” kit and they incorporates a 9-way adjustable shock absorber.
  8. Kebin
    {Throw Sum D’z On Dat Bitch} Finding wheels to suit the shape of my wagon was difficult in two ways. 1. There are a lot of shit looking wheels out there and 2. All the good looking wheels only come in a 5 stud pattern. (ae95 being 4x100) I found 5 spoke design wheels to suit the shape of the car best. I researched new styles of wheels that I didn’t mind and got a friend to photoshop them on. I found out later that the wheels I chose only came 5 stud L Ended up settling for some Tempe Tyre specials:
  9. Kebin
    {Blacked Out} To match the black paint I had the windows tinted by All Style Automotive in Seven Hills. I had 5% limo style tint done all round and 17% on the drivers window and passenger window so I could still sort of see out at night time.
  10. Kebin
    (cont.....) Since the motor was running sweet, it was time to strip it down and prepare to say good bye to the faded red paint and hello to a new car J Over a few months of mucking about (inappropriate rain), my wagon eventually made it to the painters where it only took a week to get painted. For the colours I chose Subaru Obsidian Black and Mitsubishi Molten Red. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out. After getting it home I began the process of putting it back together. I couldn’t justify putting old window moulds over fresh paint so the search for part numbers came easy with the aid of the Toyota EPC sourced from peter (InfoTech) I contacted my friend at Castle Hill Toyota (what can't they get?) and a special order was made to Japan. In a couple of weeks my order came in. I think they had to remake everything hehehe. Now the wagon was looking brand new and my pocket feeling super sore.
  11. Kebin
    {Hide That Back Window!} The faded red paint would never appeal to me even if I lived in denial and called it the “sleeper” look, no matter what the ae95 will always look shit :p It took me a while to decide a colour that would stand out and also take attention away from the ugly rear window. After a couple of quick photo shopped designs and colours were put together by a good mate of mine (hate you Chris :p) I decided I liked the two tone look and the red/black scheme was final. On the plus side the ugly arse rear windows wouldn’t look so hideous and out of place with the black paint on top.
  12. Kebin
    {Exhaust} Since the car was running it was time for the exhaust. Took the car down to Performance Exhaust Center in Northmead and got them to fit a 2 ¼” mandrel bent exhaust, 2.5” Cat and a new flex joint below engine cross member…. Pretty straight forward
  13. Kebin
    {Bonnet Scoop} My old AE101 scoop had seen better days and now sported various cracks and abuse. Instead of finding another second hand bonnet scoop I opted to find a scoop that wouldn’t be so obvious. I found that the scoops off later model Nissan Patrols were a tad smaller and looked the part. Straight forward fit: measure twice cut once.
  14. Kebin
    Body loom plugs: The ae101 wiring loom has two extra left over plugs that reside alongside the main ecu plugs. One plug being black and the other being grey. These two plugs are body specific circuits such as instrument cluster and reverse lights. I found this website after I figured out each circuit L http://www.soniccreation.com/electrical_main.htm This website is very helpful in determining which wire is which. The below chart I have drawn up shows which wire goes where: If my memory serves right that should pretty much be it. Actually at first the car didn’t start I checked all the vitals like battery feeds and fuel pressure. They were good but I had no spark. I eventually found that the coil packs had no earth J I forgot to bolt down the igniter to the chassis. Once that was done it started first go. YAY. Tacho: Like all later generation 4agze motors the tacho outputs don’t work with the original dash’s in ADM corollas due to the waste spark ignition setup. I researched for a solution all over the net and I found the easiest fix was to build the following tacho booster circuit. Here I just piggybacked off the coil packs negative wires:
  15. Kebin
    12 Months On.. Absolutely love this wagon! Everything about Gezza has far exceeded my expectations and has proved to be so much fun in both off-roading and urban exploring as depicted by some of these photos. New roof basket fitted with side and rear LED floodlights.
  16. Kebin
    The Rough Stuff Slowly did some light road testing to see if anything would break. Summary - Gezza loves it!
  17. Kebin
    Toyotafest #13 The goal was to get Gezza to Toyotafest 2016. I pushed and achieved. The final touch was the roof top light bar. Had both wagons there for the show! I even managed to meet up with the last owner who previously owned Gezza for 21 years! He came to Toyotafest to see his old trusty Corolla wagon that slowly perished in his drive way for the last 5 years get a new lease of life. He was amazed and very appreciative. Great guy.
  18. Kebin
    Diff Mods Since I raised the suspension by 3" the diff sat over to one side. I was able to center the diff by modifying the panhard rod using a bolt and two nuts welded in so I can adjust the length to suit. The future adventure plan may include aquatic activities. The standard diff breather would not be suffice. A remote setup was easy enough to achieve by methods of extension into the cabin using hose and and carby fuel filter.
  19. Kebin
    Front Brake Upgrade I had some leftover slotted discs and calipers from an AE111 Corolla 20V Blacktop kicking around. They are slightly bigger than the original AE95 brakes and require minimum 14" wheels to clear. After a quick sand blast and coat of paint they were fitted up with no dramas. The only tricky part was swapping over the back plates on the hubs. Swapping over the AE111 backing plates onto the AE95 hubs. I did some research on bigger tires and worked out what would be the widest diameter tire that would still fit comfortably within the wheel arches. Standard tire size diameter: 175/70R13 = 575.2mm Larger tire diameters: Winter retread tires 185R14C LT = 648mm (195/75R14) 205/65R15 = 668mm 195/70R15 LT = 654mm I settled for the 185R14C truck tires so it should be interesting to see how these go and how long they last! Also got some Honda Jazz 14" steel wheels painted up to go with the fresh 185R14C retreads. Brake upgrade installed with fresh brake hoses. Straight forward bolt on. Tyres fitted and rego established. The new tires together with the suspension mods measures about 4" of lift over the standard height
  20. Kebin
    Wiring in the 7AFE My favorite part of the swap but usually the most hated part of everyone else's build... go figure. Some good friends at Toyota were kind enough to lend me the AE112 Corolla workshop manuals to gain all the wiring diagrams I needed. I pinned out the AE112 engine wiring harness and found that it was not laid out like the AE95 harness. The easiest way to make it plug and play was to strip both and graft the main AE95 body wiring into the AE112 harness. This would make it plug and play into the AE95 chassis. The original 4AFE engine harness. The 7AFE engine harness stripped down with most of the unnecessary circuits stripped. The final 7AFE engine wiring harness plug and play into AE95. The plug connectors in the cabin. The lower three plug connectors are the left over unused AE112 wiring left there for future use if needed i.e. gauge wiring. The AE112 engine ecu has a factory immobilizer built in. It needs to be wired in so that the engine ecu see's a valid key or else the engine won't run. I wired in the immobilizer unit with key+reader and tucked the lot under the dash. I mounted the engine ecu as high as possible for those times of aquatic adventures Wiring harness installed and majority of engine bay finished.
  21. Kebin
    The Engine Swap The 7A engine block already has a notch in its design which makes it transfer case friendly with minimal grinding of the block as opposed to the 4AG blocks which need a lot 'meat' ground off the block to allow room for the transfer case to bolt up. Dropping the original engine out. 4AFE on the left, 7AFE on the right ready to go in. Rolling the new setup in. 7AFE bolted in. Some differences: A comparison of smallport 4AGE exhaust flanges compared to 7AFE. The AE95 throttle cable is not long enough to reach the 7AFE throttle body. The AE112 throttle cable fits straight in. The lower exhaust header pipe which connects the headers to the rear exhaust is distinctly different on the AE95 so that it clears the transfer case. The 7AFE secondary exhaust has to be modified to connect up to the rest of the AE95 exhaust as well as 02 sensor placement.
  22. Kebin
    Preparing for the Engine Swap The original 1.6L 4AFE engine that came with the wagon was perfectly fine besides needing a water pump. I went ahead with the plan to swap in the later model 'big block' 1.8L 7AFE engine due to lower kms and that tiny bit more torque which suited my application. A quick tidy up of the new motor was all that was needed. A major service was carried out. A new clutch kit along with the freshly blasted,painted and machined flywheel Fresh front drive shafts.
  23. Kebin
    Reach For The Sky: Next on the agenda was ground clearance. Low wasn't the go this time around so I put together a 3" lift kit on the cheap from ideas I found researching the Alltrac and Subaru forums. For the front end I took a second pair of old strut tops from an AE92 and welded a piece of steam pipe in between the original top and the second top to form the 3" lift. When reinstalling the front struts you will need to replace the top bolt of each hub with camber bolts to allow further camber adjustment due to introduced positive camber caused by the suspension lift. I had the correct camber dialed in when I took Gezza for a final wheel alignment. Standard bolt on the left. Camber bolt on the right. For the rear end was straight forward. Ford EL Falcon rear springs and 1st gen Rav4 rear shocks are 3" taller than the original AE95 parts.
  24. Kebin
    I've built another AE95. Bagging and painting my first wagon was cool but some years later I needed something less subtle to go camping and exploring in. My goal is to build an adventure wags. My AE95 Social Media Landing Page My Instagram feed with numerous Gezza photos. The Beginning: In March 2015, I happen to hear word on the FB grapevine of a corolla wagon that had been sitting on a driveway for years. A bit of investigation and a site visit landed myself another corolla wagon for the tidy sum of $150. A budget buy deserved an ultra budget build. How I found the new wagon (sitting for 5 years) Shortly after picking up the wagon, I happen to also barter a granny spec 1.8L 7AFE engine from a later gen AE112 Corolla. This was the beginning of the budget build.
  25. Kebin
    {Wiring It For Broom Broom} Now for the fun part> the wiring! Since the motor was in a previous conversion a lot of it was already modified…. Poorly. So I stripped everything till I had it all laid out as per factory spec. 6-Pin black power plug: The factory harness was almost routed the same except for the main power feed 6pin plug (or lack thereof) which ends up behind the drivers side strut tower. This plug needs to be both extended and re-routed to the ae95 main power plug (black) located under the ashtray in the centre console. I just cut off the 4afe engine side of the plug and grafted it to the ae101 loom for the factory feel ;) Fuse box: Next up was wiring up the ae95 engine bay fuse box up to the ae101 loom. Pretty much straight forward as the wire colours matched. I also wired up the thermo fan trigger (Light Green) to the temp sensor on the thermostat housing (Light Green/black). A simple clean up of the battery terminal wiring was also carried out. The a/c wiring needs to be connected to the ae95 setup. This is easy enough as the a/c clutch trigger (Black/white) is sitting in a 2pin plug beside the fuse box. The gze trigger wire to the compressor is Blue/Yellow. Don’t confuse this as being a fuel pump wire either, it runs from the engine bay fuse box to the compressor only. Also the ae95 a/c amplifier needs a return signal to confirm the clutch is engaged. Instead of running another wire from the compressor I just used the leftover wire at the fusebox (Red/white) which runs to the black gze connector in the cabin. I connected this wire (Red/white) to the clutch trigger wire (Blue/yellow). All that is left to do is change the plugs of the reverse light switch on the gearbox.
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