Jump to content

Kebin

Region Leader[RL]
  • Posts

    610
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Kebin

  1. {In With The New (finally)} With the AE101 4agze motor bolted up to the AE95 gearbox I was ready to fit it back into the wagon. Easy really just slide it under the raised car using the skateboard then lower the car back down on top of it. Then lift the engine to the engine mounts and bolt it all up…. Done!
  2. {Steering Rack Solution} The AE95 has a power steering rack with a vacuum assist incorporated to the original pump on the 4afe motor. The 4agze power steer pump does not feature this. The ae101 vacuum assist is like most other motors where it is fed into the actual steering rack. It then feeds to the idle up valve on the rear of the throttle body. The hydraulic lines are routed differently between the two motors. Below are AE92 4afe steering racks same as AE95's. My solution was to fit an ae92 sx steering rack or similar as they have they vacuum assist on the rack itself. Scouring the forums I scored a leftover steering rack and front brake setup from an AE111 20v blacktop front cut. Quick measurements came up with the AE111 rack being the same dimensions as the AE95 rack. Straight bolt in. Be sure to get all the hydralic lines too as they bolt up to the AE101 steering pump. Everything just fits perfectly! Thanks to GBC_069 for the parts.
  3. {Diff Lock Solution} Once fitting the 4AGZE motor you will find that the sc12 supercharger body takes up the space that the factory diff lock actuator mounts. The actuator is largish in size and is vacuum operated to push and pull a shaft on the side of the transfer case that in turn locks the rear diff. It mounts in the same area which the supercharger occupies. The only way to keep the original diff lock setup is to remove the sc12 and turbo your motor. Otherwise in keeping your sc12 as I have done, you lose the factory diff lock setup. While my motor was out I thought about how I could get around it esp. with space constrictions. I needed something motorized that would move back and forth about 20mm. Amongst my junk collection I found a couple of central door locking actuators. The stroke of the actuators was perfect for what I wanted. I made up brackets and a plate out of aluminium to mount the two actuators. In theory a motorized actuation isn’t really suitable due to wear and tear on the motors. Most diff locks are air operated too. Door actuators are cheap enough to replace. I haven’t finished wiring up the diff lock yet but have tested its operation with a 12 volt battery and it works fine just have to test it on the road. Its not the ideal reliable setup but it could work. Sooner or later I’ll make an air locker. EDIT - I later worked out that this will not work. An air operated 2way ram would be the most ideal substitute for this application! Although ditching the SC12 and converting to turbo would by far be the most beneficial upgrade.
  4. {Fitting the Gearbox} Now the major part of the conversion is bolting up the original gear box + transfer case to the new motor. The 4afe has a cut out on one section of the ribbing on the block to allow the transfer case to wrap around the side of the motor. This area is on the inlet side just before the flywheel below the starter motor. I have heard that silvertop 20valve motors have this required cut out in the block. The 20v conversion is a lot more common due to this fact (apparently) I’m yet to confirm this. (EDIT: confirmed 20V motor requires grinding). Now from research on the forums the mod required to fit the transfer case is to cut/grind out the excess ribbing. Now this may seem dodgy but it’s the only way it will fit. So away I went grinding away at the ribbing slowly bit by bit. I ended up trial fitting the box on the motor about 15 times each time removing it to grind a lil more till it fitted like a glove. I also grinded down some of the gearbox housing to help with the fitting process. Home made skateboard in conjunction with engine crane FTW! What a pain to fit and remove gearbox to motor so so many times though….. It took me almost a whole day to mod the motor enough till I had about 5 mm clearance between the block and transfer case. Remember the sump pan seal as been weakened so just make sure plenty of gasket maker is used to reseal sump pan to the engine and you should be right.
  5. {Out With The Old} With the motor so fresh and so clean it was time to remove the boat anchor 4afe that was still running strong in the engine bay. This time I did it the right way and dropped out the motor with gearbox/transfer case. Pretty easy really: jack up car> unbolt everything> lower motor to the ground> further raise up car> slide out motor from underneath car> done!
  6. {ABV Modification} Whilst cleaning the throttle body parts I decided to carry out the common mod done to the air bypass valve. It supposedly stops the bleed off of boost at max boost. I made up a small plate to block off the section where the abv was. Sufficient use of gasket goo all round J Alternatively the diagram below shows another mod to keep the abv closed allowing higher boost levels to be achieved. I chose to just plate off the abv and remove the blue abv vsv.
  7. {Engine Donor + Clean up} I had previously picked up an ae82 Corolla seca with an AE101 4AGZE conversion already in it. After using it as a daily for a few months I decided fwd wasn’t for me :P Out came the motor and all the dodgy mods to fit it lol With the motor on the engine stand I though I’d give the motor a light freshen up. The usual deal timing belt, tensioners, new belts, degreasing etc. While the motor is out I researched the common age faults with 4agze motors > dirty idles. Recommended fixes are cleaning out the throttle body. I pulled mine off with surrounding piping and to my disgust filled up with sludgy gunky oily crap (common) obviously previous owner never heard of throttle body cleaning. Stripped apart made cleaning the parts tons easier. The below pics show how grimy some of the parts were.
  8. The build thread for my 4AGZE powered AE95 Toyota Corolla 4WD wagon. My AE95 Social Media Landing Page {Intro + Purchase} I purchased my 1989 Toyota Corolla AE95 SR5 AWD Wagon in June 2006. I found it on eBay (where else :P) and paid a tidy sum of $500 for it. Saved from the scrap yard. It had a non-existent clutch, a couple of smallish dents, a/c gasless, no rego and the red paint was completely faded. Apart from those few minor things it was fairly straight all round. At that time I had already shopped around trading post etc. and I found the average price for a decent AE95 was $3000 so really I was happy with what I got. The main reasons for indulging in this form of conversion/artform was; 1. the fact it was not very common, 2. being able to take it soft roading on the beach on the weekends and 3. choosing an ugly car and doing it up 😛 {Repairs + Blue slip} First up on the fix list was the clutch. Begun was the search for a temporary clutch. Pricing a new clutch kit proved not to be an option as it would only be used for like 250kms. So I placed a WTB thread on a few forums. Toymods came through and I picked up a 4agze clutch and pressure plate from an ae92 with plenty of meat. Thanks Clint! (peter costello on the forums). Now the task to replace the clutch…. I soon realised why I got the wagon cheap. The previous owner must have realised once the clutch gave up the cost to replace it wasn’t worth it. What a bitch it is to remove the gearbox. I found out later that the Toyota workshop manual recommends removing entire motor to change clutch and gives a removal and replacement time of 12 hours. Whoa…. Silly me removed the gearbox with the motor still in the car 😛 After the clutch fitted and working all sweet I went over the car and fixed/serviced all the safety things. I then took it in for blue slip… the fellas went over it did a brake test and all the necessary checks. They ended up informing me I had movement in the steering rack -> worn out rack end. They were nice enough to let me fix it then bring it back to sign it off. Finally I had it registered and I could sink deeper into my project.
  9. Toyota Car Club of Australia Victoria presents ALL TOYOTA WINTERFEST 2015 + TRACK DAY The Radrollaz Corolla club will be road tripping down from Sydney to attend this event. PM for further information if you would like to join the weekend away.
  10. You can't go wrong with an AE95. They are bulletproof wagons and cheap to repair if you do find the slightest worn out component. Visit the Alltrac forums for a wealth of information: http://www.alltracwagon.net/forum/ Or on FB: https://www.facebook.com/Corolla.Ae95.4wd?fref=ts
  11. The Radrollaz crew will be doing the usual pre-meet at McDonald's Bella Vista, Celebration Drive Bella Vista. This is located just off Old Windsor Road. All Corollas are welcome to join our group + Display! We will be meeting there at 7.30am for an 8.00am departure. This is so we can roll in and all park together. If we don't all arrive at the same time we may not be able to park together. We will be trying to provide a gazebo and table but would appreciate it if you could bring your own chairs and eskies. Looking forward to seeing you all there.
  12. I saw this up n close at Powercruise Syd couple years back. All i can say is WOW!! you're in for some fun hehe very cool car!
  13. Hey Stephen! There will be a few Corollas representing this year among the usual Radrollaz crew. Its always an awesome event. Looking forward to seeing your Corona!
  14. More pics from Showcased 2013 (ripped from JDMST Forums):
  15. It's on again, The biggest Toyota show of the year. Toyotafest!! You guys all know the drill! This is a favorite event among all Toyota enthusiasts as this annual event showcases the best Toyota's Sydney has to offer. Once again the Corolla presence will be in full force alongside the Radrollaz club to celebrate Toymods 10 year anniversary of their ever so popular Toyota car show. All Corollas welcome! Write up from Toyotafest 2012 Copied from the Toymods thread: Toymods car club is proud to present TOYOTA FEST 2013 Car Show 10th Anniversary Show! WE ARE BACK AT CASTLE HILL HOME HUB CASTLE HILL Cnr Victoria Ave & Showground Rd, CASTLE HILL South Roof Top Sunday, 6th October 2013 Long Weekend don't FORGET DAYLIGHT SAVINGS This year brings us to show number 10! That's right, we've been doing this for a decade, and we're back at our favourite venue - Home Hub Castle Hill. If the weather is kind to us, we'll be on the rooftop enjoying the sunshine. So far we have DBA and Zen Garage on board as event sponsors. Should be looking at a few more within a month. We'll keep you posted! So how do you enter...? To be eligible to enter, the vehicle must be Toyota bodied, but any engine and driveline combination is welcome. You DO NOT have to be a member of the Toymods Car Club to enter and we encourage other Toyota clubs to present club displays. Entry fee is $10 per vehicle to cover event overheads. Spectators are FREE Trophy classes and eligibility... Best Original Classic - Best/Most Original vehicle Pre 1980 Best Modern Original - Best/Most Original vehicle available between 1981 and 2000 Best Commercial - Best over all mini truck, ute, van, etc... Top Late Model - Best over all post 2000 Retro Tech - Best modified Classic with a modern flavour (pre 1980) Best Engineered - Car best engineered for its purpose WTF! That's not meant to be - Most adventurous mechanical modification Street Sleeper - Most deceptive high performance car Top engine bay - Best presented engine bay Best paint & Panel - Best finish and fit Best interior - Best finish and fit Top Coupe - Highest overall scoring Coupe Top Hatch - Highest Overall scoring Hatch Entrants choice - Best overall as chosen by other entrants *Nathan Dean Memorial Trophy - Best Classic Celica (1971-1977) BEST OF SHOW - Highest overall scoring vehicle NOTE: There's a chance of few new classes to be added. Entrants are encouraged to arrive from 7.30am with last entrants being accepted into the display at 8.50am for a 9am start. Trophy presentation and raffle will be done at 2.30pm. The display will close at 3.00pm with ALL cars remaining until then. In the interest of public safety NO vehicle may be moved or started during the display. Again, Toymods, is organising a few 'side' events for the interstate enthusiasts. So to make their trip worthwile, we will be having a dinner and possibly a Dyno Day or drag night at WSID (TBA) See everyone there... PS: You're car does not need to be in 'show condition' to enter. As long as it's neat and tidy (washing it is a great start), we'd love to see it in the show!
  16. http://www.worldtimeattack.com/ This is special invite to all those who wish to enter their Corolla's alongside the Radrollaz Club at World Time Attack this coming October. For those who missed last years event, World Time Attack is (imo and confirmed by Speedhunters!) THE best motorsport event of the year with international race teams and Media attending this annual event. Last year our Corolla's presence made quite a statement not to mention collecting quite a few trophies including taking out Top Judged! http://www.worldtime...nshine-results/ If you love your motorsport and want to show your corolla off to the world then this is where you want to park your Rolla for the day Right in the center of it all! All are welcome. No special requirements. Your car doesnt need to be a show stopper, just be neat and tidy. Please show your interest here or by shooting me a pm, so i can start to gather numbers. Further proof the world loves Corolla's... See the first pic on the official site: http://www.worldtime...ownshine-rules/ Email from the organisers: This years World Time Attack, MotorGraphics Show n Shine will be held on Saturday the 19th of October 2013. Entry will be via gate 7 at the rear of the circuit (opposite the entry to WSID) from 6.30am-9.30am sharp. General entry tickets are available for pre purchase from moshtix , or on the day from ticket booths located around the circuit, including gate 7. Once you have purchased your general admission ticket for $50.00 just bring the ticket to the registration building located approximately 30 meters to the left of gate 7 ( small white building) and pay just $10.00 for your show n shine entry ticket. That's right just $10.00 to be in the thick of all the action. This ticket allows you access through security and onto the skid pan. PLEASE NOTE : NO general admission tickets are available for purchase from the show n shine staff in the registration building. The show n shine ticket MUST be presented with your general admission ticket to the gate at the time of entry to WTAC. Due to ever increasing entry numbers we will NOT be having entry forms this year, it will be, however, first in best dressed for positions, so if you plan to park as a group or as a club then it is best to arrive together as we cannot guarantee positions to those who arrive late.
  17. Sure is! Currently organising it with the WTAC organisers atm
×
×
  • Create New...