rowantsarolla

So inspired!

I've been trawling forums and getting PM's off members and have worked out that for a KE70 i would also need for the conversion: - Celica RA60 rack ends. Not sure whether to try and find some at a wrecker or source them from somewhere like repco? - Bluebird TRX tie rod ends or -AW11 rack ends and s13/180sx (are they the same) tie rod ends. - Camber tops? Not sure if i need them, or even whether to use ae86 or ke55 or 180sx tops. Obviously these might not all fit the spacing of the strut top holes hmm. Chillin had to drill a new hole for his AE86 strut tops hey Are there any differences between ke55 and ke70 that i will need to take into considerations for this conversion? Ro

Hey guys, in an attempt to ditch the stardard brakes, bad shocks and cut springs of me ke55 coupe, id love to do this particular upgrade (180sx struts, springs, brakes). The reason i've purchased stuff from a 180 is that thats just what was available on pay day, and at a decent price, and id rather keep this cheap! Obviously, upgrades from this strut are everywhere too (coilovers etc)! What i have bought: - 180sx struts/ strut tops/ brakes etc with some sort of aftermarket springs in there (chopped tho :no2: ) - 15's to fit the brakes (came bolted onto the struts) - sr20 crossmember (came connecting the struts), which id be happy to sell on the cheap to anyone who can use it. What i have read already: - various people have talked about how this upgrade effects steering and handling geometry. - various people have done this upgrade to AE86 and ke70s and have had sucess. What i want to know still: - What exactly needs to be modified or bought to make this set up fit, and work decently well (from anyone experienced pleaseee), in a ke55, or if even this is possible. - Any tips from members in setting it all up. Keeping in mind my only experience with suspension is pulling standard stuff apart/ swapping springs and reinstalling the standard stuff. I can't weld or fabricate stuff and have minimal tools, but I'm happy to get someone else to make something up or whatever is needed. Yeah anyways ill keep trawling for info but anyone with any relevant experience would be an awesome help. I'd be heaps keen to work this out and share feedback once it all goes in and is sorted out for anyone else looking to upgrade! Sorry about the length! Cheers, Ro Edit, Found a few good links so far for anyone else interested, here are 2: http://www.toymods.o...conversion.html http://www.toymods.o...-fitment.html

Wow, some awesome Rolla's here, and such a good source of info on running gear! Car: 1979 KE55 Coupe. Motor & Driveline: 4k, 4speed. Extractors. Keen to go down the path of a 4/5k rebuild with a cam regrind, carb, flow mods, compression etc... Just trying to gather some feedback from other people as to how much better their motor goes from said mods. Currently getting inspiration from Evan_G's rides thread! Suspension & Brakes: Standard Fronts, chopped springs. 2" lowering blocks, rear. Smashed shocks- not cool. Sussing out short stroke shocks for front and rear + leaf reset and stiffer coils, larger swaybars. Also looking for a good front strut/ brake conversion package- can't wait for one to pop up locally! Wheels & Tyres: 13" Jelly beans. Interior: Standard + cheap aftermarket bucket seat, tacho and woodgrain steering wheel (after a dished racing wheel). Body: KE30? Grille, WORST paint job ever (grinder marks, runs, bad rust repairs...) Dark tint. Oah, and BONNET PINS! Other info: This is my 4th KE55, 1st coupe/ hardtop. Love it though, my biggest issue being terrible handling! Cheers, Ro

Haha! Inspirational! Defs gonna do it, but i wont be able to screw on/off so easily... previous owner was 'hectic' and cut the shifter lever a few inches shorter, I'm not a fan. Leverage is good!

HOW! How did you make the shifter? Or did u pull it from a truck or something? And it screws on and off?? I'v been wanting to do the same with my rolla, but not so tall and with this gearknob on top....Info appreciated!

Haha, touche'. Drop a 0. Car has done 179700ks Bump.

Sup guys and gals, we are selling my wifes car and this is her ad! Contact number (mine) is: 0410 949 385 Tis a good car, make an offer or by it cheaper with just the current pinkslip! Ro. Located in Springwood, Blue Mountains (just west of Syd). 1995 Suzuki Swift Cino 1797000ks 5speed manual Curently has Pink slip, will provide new 6 months rego with sale. This car has been great, female owner never broken down for me or previous owner (the last 9 years) Great on fuel small dents on the boot from previous owner driver's door will not always open with a key but locks fine (I unlock it from the passenger's side) $1500ono with 6months rego. Hope the pics work for you!

Ah, he probably does! Cheers!

Thanks for the reply's i had a crack and got the head off and got it machined (also got the bloke to skim extra off) and bought a VRS kit and will put it back together tomorrow. Was DEFINITELY a blown head gasket, but I'm not too bummed because iv learned (and saved) a lot by doing it myself! Luckily my bestie down the road has a torque wrench! If you are ever in this situation i'd recommend doing what i did and what others suggested: - Get someone to confirm that you've blown the gasket (it is easy to test for) - Grab a gregory's manual off ebay ($16 + postage) - Follow the steps, take ya time! I didnt even disconnect the carby (apart from the metal fuel line), or fully remove the manifolds from the car. - Take the head to a machinist/ engine builder (I left the valve springs etc still in the head) and ask him to machine the underside of the head flat/ straight - Clean the face of the block, make sure it is level and good (crap builds up around the bores). - Buy a decent VRS kit or even just a good new head gasket and put it all back together. I'll be getting a mechanic to check/ reset the valve clearances for me and suss it out. Is there anything else i've missed or should do? Cheers, it fun!

Hey Rollaclub members, Today i scored a 5k engine, extractors and an aftermarket looking carburettor that seems to be of the brand 'Autolite'. Can anyone shed some 'lite' on what this is off, if it is deemed as good or bad or any info at all. The only markings iv seen on it are the numbers (on the barrels) 26 and 27. Cheers! Ro

Woah thanks for the replies, i just bought Gregory's manual from ebay, so i might have a go myself! I appreciate the help. Meanwhile, i have pulled out the front springs (chopped to the max!) and i found that my old Pulsar king springs were 5mm less in diameter to the standard Rolla springs so i threw them in. They seem to sit well in the spring housings but not "snug". is 5mm too big a difference? I am worried about the springs having space to move, is this going to be a problem or will i be better off with sketchy chopped standard springs?

Damn, no way! It does make sense though. The local wreckers had a reconditioned head which i could buy. How hard is it to change the head? Or should i leave it to the pro's? Woah, just remembered, when i bought the car it was running rough, so i got a tune and the mech said the timing was out 50degrees.... it was a dodgy buy. Ebay :( but it has racing seats and an exhaust and sunroof !

Hi guys and girls, tell me what to try as far as getting my rolla through this tough time before more damage is caused! Car: 78 KE55, 4k motor, original as far as the engine bay goes, standard radiator. Problem: Basically i noticed that the radiator had lost water (3-4) very fast, with water/ coolant filling the overflow bottle and even popping the lid on it (the overflow) with pressure built up. Once i had found that the the temp sensor wire was not plugged in to the sensor i plugged it in, flushed the radiator, refilled it and ran the motor with the radiator cap off. I then watched air bubbles as they came gurgling through the radiator and also noticed a constant drop/ refill in the radiator levels (to just below the cap and then back to full/ light overflow, even when topping up the level with the hose on low pressure). I can't see any leaks in the radiator or hoses. I also noticed that the temp gauge reached MAX within 30s - 1 minute of Idling, without the motor being warm on start-up. What made me first check the radiator was the slight smell of burnt oil coming out of the rocker cover hose thing (has no hose, just vents into the bay and fumes came up the shifter hole into the cab). I have swapped the thermostat, but that didnt seem to fix anything - top hose is always considerably hotter than the bottom radiator hose, and both hoses seem fairly new and in very good condition, with good clamps. I would rather not drive it even to a mechanic while this is going on, so i would love some suggestions about what i could try. The car still goes hard and makes much more power than my previous 2 4K KE55s, so i don't think iv blown the head gasket- but i am no mechanic, i just tinker and try and work things out as part of the appeal of having and older car. Any help, knowledge or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks Ro Woo first post done!

Hey guys and gals, i am a rolla owner (KE55 4 door) and love all of the KE series, and my fiance is a fan too, as long as they are colourful! Anyways, we're getting married in April and want Corollas as our wedding cars (including mine). If there is anyone in the Blue Mountains area with a nice ke30-55 who would be keen on hiring it out to us for our wedding day i'd love to hear from you, and we can sort out details from there. The wedding would be in Springwood, lower mountains with the reception in Wentworth falls so we'd pay for petrol + a hire fee and could provide an alternative car for the owner for the day, unless you would rather drive the car for us, and that is cool too! Anyway, if you are that person with that car give Ro a buzz/ text on 0410 949 385 Cheers!

Hey mate, I get around Springwood in a yellow 4 door 55, and it has been a pleasure to see this one cruising past! WOW!