TOMsGPTurbo Posted July 9, 2004 Report Posted July 9, 2004 Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone knows what or how to fix this following problem: The Car stutters when taking off and clutch slips - normally happens when car is cold... the engine light will come on... if I rev it more car sorta goes but it doesn't want to. :) Quote
Teddy Posted July 9, 2004 Report Posted July 9, 2004 clutch slips - time for a new clutch? Car stutters - when you release the clutch to friction point? when clutch is fully engaged? - if I rev it more car sorta goes but it doesn't want to - explain? Quote
TOMsGPTurbo Posted July 9, 2004 Author Report Posted July 9, 2004 Ok just say you wanna take off normall and when you release the clutch and start acclerating the car starts to stutter. ... I believe it needs a new clutch.. I paid for a brand new Daiken heavy duty item which was suppose to be fitted but never was... so I doubt its a brand new clutch! yes even if I lift my foot off the clutch and go to acclerate the car will stutter even more voilently... using the clutch controls it... if I rev it more car sorta goes but it doesn't want to - explain? = as in clutch slips majorly I have been told its an ECU problem or a wiring to dizzy problem ... but I disagree... because it always happens when I'm taking off and the car is cold. Remember those times when you 1st started to learn how to drive and the car bunnyhopped.... thats exactly what its like just more crazy! Quote
Super Jamie Posted July 9, 2004 Report Posted July 9, 2004 sounds like nick's on the money, i would say both fuel and ignition maps? the problem is probably present over all running conditions of the motor, but more noticeable when the engine is cold and the ecu runs its little "pretend choke" richness cycle thing. have you had it on a dyno? you may find your afr is out all over the place and you're not using optimum timing for the fuel you're running in it Quote
TOMsGPTurbo Posted July 9, 2004 Author Report Posted July 9, 2004 Nah no Dyno.. wish I could afford it but kinda tight with the budget :) I'm saving all money for 4EFTE ecu to be wired up and FMIC .. and also shockies and springs... The 4EFTE is actually MAP sensored not AFM like the 3ETE... so that could be it tooo... cause the 3ETE ecu is trying to send messages to the AFM and its not there but the map sensor is trying to compensate ... fark I dispise *** cause so many problems ... stole so much money and caused me so much stress, anger, frustration,blood, tears and put me off cars.. :) Ok so it looks like ECU problems.... in a way its good ..least I know its not something else that could require more attention. Quote
Super Jamie Posted July 9, 2004 Report Posted July 9, 2004 bingo. you can't fit an airflow meter? i don't really know too much about efi bits' indepth workings, you sound like you know what you need to fix it Quote
demuire Posted July 9, 2004 Report Posted July 9, 2004 Huh? Okay, non-comprendo. So what engine are you actually running at the moment? A 4EFTE (MAP sensored)? But you're using it with a 3ETE computer (AFM sensored)? So... you're trying to use an AFM sensored computer to control an engine with a MAP sensor? If so, I'm surprised the car even runs at all... Quote
Peter Posted July 14, 2004 Report Posted July 14, 2004 One thing to check is the wiring (power supply) to dist. Had similar thing happen to wifes AE82-4afe. On extremely cold mornings the car would start and run OK for 50 metres and then stop. Would not run again until the air temp warmed up and then everthing was fine. Had me stuffed until by luck I was checking temp switch connection while engine was running and accidentally moved the wiring harness and the engine died. Long story short, the actual copper wire in the extension I had wired into the dist was broken inside. combination of a cold contracted wire and engine movement resulted in loss of conductivity until air temp raised. Replaced the offending wire and no more problems. Hate to think what a mechanic or auto elec would have charged. Your case , Dunno, but I would whip out the multi meter and check the relevant wires. Hope this helps Peter Quote
TOMsGPTurbo Posted July 16, 2004 Author Report Posted July 16, 2004 Thanks guys, I shall pass your thoughts to my mechanic who is fitting the 4EFTE ECU in a couple of weeks. Hopefully the problem will be found and fixed and the engine will run smoothly. Also show why its sucking down 2ltrs of oil in 3weeks of highway driving. (small leak when car is standing still maybe 3cm squared) Quote
Super Jamie Posted July 17, 2004 Report Posted July 17, 2004 thats actually quite a large oil leak, you'd be surprised how much area a small bit of oil can cover when it's thinned Quote
TOMsGPTurbo Posted July 19, 2004 Author Report Posted July 19, 2004 yeh I know :) tho it doesn't seem to leak it but burn it... I think turbo may be on its way out... maybe... I don't know much... as you know. Quote
NickZ Posted July 19, 2004 Report Posted July 19, 2004 Hey....I don't understand about the AFM/map problem....your car is running a AFM ECU and you don't have a AFM?...that would be why the ECU light would be on. the AFM uses a temp sensor in combination to the water temp as a reference as well as a flap/hotwire sensor for fuel mixture. I don't understand how the car runs as this is the most important part of the ECU. I would say if the car runs it would be running mega lean thats why it doesnt want to go as the voltage at minium would be 0 volts for the ecu and 5/12 volts for maximum air flow (I'm guessing the 5/12volts as I have never mersured it)so without the AFM the ecu may think its at idle and then you add more air by opening the throttle the engine will still free rev ok but under load will be very lean as the air and fuel mixture wont richen. Map....what map? there is no map for a AFM ecu. If you have the MAP sensor fitted (usual place is high on the firewall with a vac pipe to the manifold, and some times confused with the unit for the vac/boost gauge in the standard dash cluster) That is if someone has fitted it when the engine was changed (if the map sensor was removed from the car the engine came from) There wouldnt be any where for it to be wired as the signals are totaly diffrent (it is impossible for change either system from what the ecu was made for...if it could be id be rich :)) id be buying something like a microtech ecu (uses map) so in the future there will be endless upgrades for you ..(the standard ecu will also the boostcut etc....YUCK) my brothers car uses the same ecu and has boost cut at around 11psi...fuel cut defender you say....BAD. leans out the fuel at big boost. does this help answer your problem I'm guessing you car setup as ive only just jumped into this thread. but this my help some of you in the future. Quote
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