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5k Into Ke15

Featured Replies

woohoo, my 5k is now together and ready to go in my ke15 tomorrow.

 

the 5k has 9.5:1 CR, mild porting, valve springs with dampers (good for over 8 grand), tighe 113 cam (25/65 65/25 400 thou lift), solid lifter conversion, double row timing chain. should go well. :)

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Edited by Felix

Get rid of the mechanical fan and save a couple of horses.

 

You think someone would have thought to give you an electric fan.

Get rid of the mechanical fan and save a couple of horses.

 

You think someone would have thought to give you an electric fan.

but where does the power for the electrical fan come from?? I think your going to be drawing power either way...

 

I saw a very cleaver setup a year or so ago. These guys had designed an altenator that is combined with the water pump pully. So you have an idler and all the power is used in one location.

irokin: True, but the power required by the electric fan is essentially "delayed" because it comes from the cars electrical system. Whether your electrical system is under load or not, your engine still has to turn your alternator around, so you can't really avoid that. The engine fan however, uses up power all the time, not to mention reducing responsiveness.

 

As long as your electrical system isn't under extreme load (from big spotlights or massive stereo systems etc) and your electric fan doesn't chew a heap of power, an electric fan does tend to help make the engine "more fun"... However, if you have to put a bigger alternator (more power drain) on to run your electric fan, then I'd think twice about it...

  • Author

haha, the mechanical fan cools better than an electric fan. when i'm sure the thing will run cool i might swap radiators over with the one in becs car which has an electric fan.

 

BTW, becs' ke16 has an electric fan and the thing runs bloody hot in warm weather. i have never really had any cooling issues running a plastic fan, even when doing hard climbs up mt glorious. becs car ran nearly off the dial even when crawling up.

 

the engine is now in. just need to connect up the tailshaft, and hook up the extractors, SUs, radiator, wires and all the fiddly shit. should be going later this arv. :)

 

anyway lunch is over.....back to it

A thermo fan is worth about 2-3hp at peak revs.

 

*mutter mutter unscrew..... YOINK!*

 

Having said that, mine dies in the arse with 600w of lights, and an 85 amp alternator... :)

Edited by Redwarf

the mechanical fan cools better than an electric fan

 

I wouldn't go quite that far...

 

Really depends on the fan involved, and the way it's setup. In Pinky (using the Suzuki Vitara fan bolted on with no shield except for the stock one) my 4K used to run a little warm most of the time, and boil if I trashed it. Had to take a break after every 3 laps at Carnell, and by 7 laps at QR it was well in the red zone...

 

In Hal (4AGE) I've got an aftermarket fan with a custom shroud. I've never ever had it run hot. Even constant 8000RPM for about 10 minutes on the skidpan only made the oil hot, water was still at normal temperature (BTW, I've since learnt to drive a bit more smartly on the skidpan and rarely even pass 4000RPM now :)). Mind you I have an extra core in the radiator and the radiator is probably in better condition than the one in Pinky...

 

Some fans are more efficient than others, and with all fans it'll work best if it's setup right.

 

So Doug, are we going to see you on Sunday then? :) :D :)

If you are worried about loading up the alt you could always run a switch on the field circuit and run total loss for a little while. ( how many circuit cars run only a total loss system)

  • Author

well in a ke1x you have to run the fan in front of the radiator, as there is no room behind. so really you can't set up a decent shroud, so the cooling efficiency is down.

 

a plastic fan is way better than the original steel bladed fan.

 

becs car has a 10" davies craig thermo on the front. when i put my old 4k in it, i will run a plastic fan on it, and try the thermo on my car.

  • Author

she's a goer.

 

got it all together and fed it water and oil and cranked it over (with coil lead removed) until the oil light went out. i topped up the oil then kicked it in the guts. it started first go! :)

 

it runs ok. has got an exhaust leak at the head :sad: looks as though i will have to pull off the SU's to fix it. might just throw on the weber for the time being, as the linkages and return springs on the SUs need a little more thought i think. the SU's are a bugger to put on.

 

took it for a run and it has heaps more grunt than the old 4k. it sounds a lot deeper, and really goes through the gears fast. the idle is a bit wild sounding at the moment, further work setting up the SU's and properly balancing them should help.

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Edited by Felix

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