Jump to content

Diff Clearance Issues. Any Advice ?


radrollaz

Recommended Posts

Hi all i have a hilux diff in my ke30 4 door and have found that my new shock allow car to squat now and the diff is hitting the floor under hard launches and big bumps. The car isnt too low so I'm thinking of cutting floor and raising the bump stop to allow more travel. Has any one else had this problem and if so how'd you fix it? thanks :evil:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Members dont see this ad

stiffer rear springs maybe. i havent had the diff hitting the floor on any launches and mine hooks up pretty sweet and squats quite well. Only issues i ve had is when hitting hardcore bumps in the road the tubes bottom out on the bump stop. I have a soft front spring pedders shock and rear is a added tramp leaf and areset springs with Peddars sports ryder shocks.

 

I hate the lack of room when hitting bumps though. HAs been so bad before at bout 80 km per hour the following car reckons one wheel was 200mm of the ground. Sent me into a insane wheelspun full fish tail that i rather disliked too! ah ah a

Link to comment
Share on other sites

curly sounds right to me... my hilux in my ke70 the snout stop was stupidly close and i ended up notching the floor to get travel due to having a bigger diff which had a longer nose and bigger angle/ different shape so it would hit.

 

Hi guys thanks for the insight, the diff hits in the middle above the diff centre were the small bump stop is. I tried cutting it down and even took it out to see if it still would hit and it did. I'm going to cut a section out were its hitting and weld in a new section with more clearence, hope it works. :lolcry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

stiffer rear springs maybe. i havent had the diff hitting the floor on any launches and mine hooks up pretty sweet and squats quite well. Only issues i ve had is when hitting hardcore bumps in the road the tubes bottom out on the bump stop. I have a soft front spring pedders shock and rear is a added tramp leaf and areset springs with Peddars sports ryder shocks.

 

I hate the lack of room when hitting bumps though. HAs been so bad before at bout 80 km per hour the following car reckons one wheel was 200mm of the ground. Sent me into a insane wheelspun full fish tail that i rather disliked too! ah ah a

Hi mate i ground down my bump stops to a third in size and it gave me a least a 2inch's more travel, that might help your problem :lol: unfortunatley mine hits above the diff center on the small bump stop. :lolcry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you look under a std corolla at ride height the pinion faces slightly down, this should be exactly the same on your hilux diff, unfortunately most diff guys just weld the spring brackets in line with the pinion, over bumps & under power the snout faces further up towards the floor, you can buy shims to change this but it,s really easy to grind them off spin them slightly & weld back on, also a good time to check guard to tyre clearance, it,s amazing how much difference a couple of mm make DON,T CUT THE FLOOR if your angle is wrong you,ll never keep unis in it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with curly and irokin.

 

Firstly, check that the pinion angle is correct, and slightly downwards facing. That way under power it should be about straight with the tail shaft.

 

A little off topic, but this may be applicable....What I also did to help with leaf springs on my car is the following.

 

Take the leafs out of the car, but still in the pack. Bend some steel around all the way round the leaves on the FRONT part of the spring (Frontwards of the diff). Do this at 2 or 3 areas, near where each spring starts. Clamp the steel around the spring, so it is tight, with a few mm gap where you will weld the ends together. Weld the steel, and so that it cools, pulls tight and effectively makes the front part of the spring more of a lateral locator. This idea is in one of Carroll Smith's books. (F1 team manager from yesteryear). His books are great, called

1.Tune to win

2.Drive to win,

3. Engineer to win.

 

I bought them for around $100, and they have definately saved me more than that in stupid mistakes.

The "Springing" part of the leaf set up will be the back half of the leafs. This setup may help slightly with limiting the twisting due to torque, eg hard launches. BUT from what I understand about fulcrums, lowering blocks will act as a bigger leaver, meaning the torque of a motor or affect of hitting a bump, will cause more strain on the rear setup, often resulting in more twisting movement.

 

So actually having the leaves reset, say and inch or 2 lower may be a better option, despite this usually meaning a light increase in roll steer from the rear.

 

Hope that makes sence, and helps you with your setup.

 

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...