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Ke70/ae71 Wagon Suspension


ae71wagonater

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Hey everyone, my wagon is now built and on the road, it goes well other than a few teething problems. the next big task is tuning the suspension as it currently handles like a boat. I have done some research but i am new to this so i am a little unsure on what to buy. i read in an earlier post in the AE discussion which provided some good info but its about a sedan. i have a new set of munroe GT gas shocks and 3cm lowerd king springs in the front but i will replace them all if a new set up is needed. If someone could reccomend a shop in ipswich or brisbane who is good with corollas that would be great. and any other advice you might have about my suspension would be appreciated aswell. Heres some pics of my 20v wagon

 

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rollabuilt1.jpg

Edited by ae71wagonater
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how handy are you with a welder/mechanical stuff?

 

my pa has a ke70 wagon and all he has done/wants to do is:

softer rear leaves as the rear is pretty light and set up for load carrying

figure out how to mount a panard bar off a sedan into the van

mount an aftermarket rear sway bar

bigger front sway bar

replace strut tops (could go for adjustable camber ones but mainly just better ones as the standard ones suck)

 

and above all, and before you spend any real money, invest in a book called how to make your car handle by fred puhn, its like a suspension guys bible, it'll save you a heap of money in the long run coz it will tell you how doing different things to your car will affect handling

 

hope all that helps :fuzz:

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don't just stiffen or soften anything without reading that book, in dads van the rear was 2 stiff in the rear due to it being designed for load carrying, as i would assume the wagon is also. This means that u have to either make the front ridiculously hard to compensate for the rear or stiffen the front up a little and soften the rear a bit, then get some decent sway bars and stop the rear moving around on the leaves with a panard bear/watts linkage and have fun.

 

theres also a way to make leaf sprung cars handle heaps better with a few bits of steel bar, make longer rear spring shackles out of the flat bar so that the front and rear eyelets of the leaf are the same distance from the ground, this dials out rear toe change under suspension movement and stops understeer. if u make a few holes in the strap u can play with different settings to get more understeer/oversteer or make the car neutral.

 

putting equal length top and bottom arms in a KE70/AE86 rear has a similar effect

 

have fun :fuzz:

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Subscribes :fuzz:

 

I'm kind of in the middle of doing the rear suspension of my wagon at the moment. It's not gonna be a race car, just my daily and I'm only doing it because the spring packs have been "tampered" with by the previous owner and are now f@#ked.

 

All I've done so far is add an extra leaf and flip the fat bottom leaf and clamp it on top to lower it a little, also got some new shocks under it. Just gonna put these in to get It rego'ed and fine tune it from there.

 

Ponders adjustable shackles :bash:

 

Keen to see what works well for others tho

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cheers everyone, looks like i have allot more reading to do. My dad is good with welders and stuff so I'm in luck there. i think i read somewhere that whiteline make a wagon rear swaybar? i cannot seem to find it on their website at the moment. heres some more pics while i go do my research. Thanks everyone for your help

rollaengine.jpg

rolla-1.jpg

rollarear.jpg

tailgate.jpg

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man, your wagon puts mine to shame, It's so clean

 

 

Harvo "goes and hides in corner" :fuzz:

 

 

haha cheers mate, gave it a respray, it used to be my grand dads car so its got some family history, i got carried away i guess. Itl be a great daily driver with lots of fun added! is that yours in your display pic with the 4aGE?

Edited by ae71wagonater
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haha cheers mate, gave it a respray, it used to be my grand dads car so its got some family history, i got carried away i guess. Itl be a great daily driver with lots of fun added! is that yours in your display pic with the 4agTe?

 

^^^^fixed, yeah thats it and it's lots of fun too :fuzz:

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^^^^fixed, yeah thats it and it's lots of fun too :fuzz:

 

Nice mate, I'm keen to know more, and what you have done with your fuel. I currently have what i think is a fuel delivery problem, I'm using an external in line pump and have swapped the fuel send and return lines to make the send the larger one. When i back off it seems to shudder sometimes like a fuel surge or something. Also when its cold it has a miss, when i touch the accelerator then it seems fine. for example when the car is cold and i start it, when i go to give it a little bit of throttle to help it start it will miss for a second then rev up. This is annoying because if i need to give it some revs to help it start it will stall. If anyone has any ideas let me know.

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I got my wagon with all the goodies in it, the fuel system has a low pressure lift pump into a 1ltr surge tank with a vl turbo inline pump with new feed and return lines. Not sure what size said lines are but there bigger then the standard ones.

 

Not much help I know, are you using a standard ecu? or after market. Could be in the tune or just a sensor on it's way out?

 

Cheers

Harvo

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figure out how to mount a panard bar off a sedan into the van

why ? There isn't much side to side movement in cart spring suspension.

don't just stiffen or soften anything without reading that book, in dads van the rear was 2 stiff in the rear due to it being designed for load carrying, as i would assume the wagon is also. This means that u have to either make the front ridiculously hard to compensate for the rear or stiffen the front up a little and soften the rear a bit, then get some decent sway bars and stop the rear moving around on the leaves with a panard bear/watts linkage and have fun.

If your really determined for a panhard bar i wouldn't bother with the watts due to it being complex to setup, heavy and the diff has to be modified.

theres also a way to make leaf sprung cars handle heaps better with a few bits of steel bar, make longer rear spring shackles out of the flat bar so that the front and rear eyelets of the leaf are the same distance from the ground, this dials out rear toe change under suspension movement and stops understeer. if u make a few holes in the strap u can play with different settings to get more understeer/oversteer or make the car neutral.

 

putting equal length top and bottom arms in a KE70/AE86 rear has a similar effect

Re-read the book on using longer shackles - it affects more then just the under/oversteer. The old gasser style drag-cars (and some dirt-track cowboys) used it and it wasn't just to fit bigger tires under the rearend. You'll be looking for the words anti-squat and anti-lift.

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Sbox, instead of telling me i'm wrong read the book that i've been speaking about (which i have in front of me) and see what I mean.

You don't have to drill holes and weld important suspension components just create new rear shackle links.

 

Towe001, it shouldn't effect anti-squat/dive characteristics unless the height is changed to create more weight transfer.

The watts linkage idea was just that, an idea. A panard bar is simpler but watts linkage works better but is more complicated i'm just giving ae71wagonater a few options.

A car with cart-sprung rear suspension and no lateral movement limiting devices moves around heaps, left to right. Especially with horse-power. Read the book.

 

Having a car too stiff in the rear may mean that you have less axle tramp but it may also cause undesired handling characteristics in other areas (over-steer/under-steer/rough ride ect). Also to my knowledge nobody makes a rear sway-bar that is a straight fit for the van/wagon (i could be wrong). However the sedan rear setup looks reasonably easy to fit to the leave spring rear end.

 

P.S. The vans really neat man

Edited by Fat Bastard Customs
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