I see the point your making with the fan on the inside - But taking into consideration my laziness and lack of motivation to make a shroud, i'll probably keep it how it is. The engine builder used to have a similar motor and he never had overheating problems with a standard radiator. So i guess i should be ok with a 3 row radiator *Fingers crossed*.

The only reason i will put the thermo fan on the fan, is to help cool the car when i get stuck at a set of lights. I'm about to go out and its about 32 degrees here, so i'll see how warm she gets.

the thing with a three row core is that its thicker, so a small amount of airflow has a lesser effect on it and it holds the heat. but has greater cooling capacity when it has decent airflow. alex had a 3 row in his first ke10 and wasn't impressed with the heat soak. even at midnight on a rainy night, mine will sit and rise above half on the temp gauge after 10-15 minutes idling (long goodbye :D)

 

if you're lazy like me, just change to plastic 4k engine fan on the water pump and run a stock shroud, make sure the blades of the fan are half in and half out of the shroud. running the underside engine tray also helps cool things down when you're moving. that being said, i don't have either on my motor :D

I already have the standard plastic fan installed, along with the shroud. With the new radiator it never got over 1/2 on the temp gauge in 34degree weather today.

I've got it booked in tommorow to have a muffler installed to quieten down a little.

Also i scored a sprinter twin carb manifold with carbs and linkages from a toyota collector. Which will be installed after the new motor is run in.

what carb are you using now?

I'm currently running a single dgv weber on the standard curved runner. The cars got great low end and mid range power, but is lacking higher in the rev range.

That reminds me, i have to get my tacho working again. Since i changed over to the electronic ignition, the tacho hasnt worked. I read a few articles on rewiring the connection of the neg wire to the coil and the neg wire from the tacho in SERIES - then setting different switch positions on the back of the tacho. Any ideas?

 

The tacho is not standard and doesnt have a name stamped on it. It was given to me second hand from a friend. Its got 5 switches on the back. The upper position for the switches are labeled OPEN. There are also 4 terminals on the back that accept terminals for the neg wire, +wire etc.