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Ke30 2 Door 20valve Conversion


cobba

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Hello,

 

My Name is Chris, i live in Perth. I will post some more pics and an in depth wright up when i get time. But i own a ke30 and have just about finished the conversion. I will load the pics if someone can tell me how to lower there MB?.

Cheers :D

 

Chris.

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Hello,

 

My Name is Chris, i live in Perth. I will post some more pics and an in depth wright up when i get time. But i own a ke30 and have just about finished the conversion. I will load the pics if someone can tell me how to lower there MB?.

Cheers :D

 

Chris.

 

You can do it through the upload process.

 

using imageshack.us and set it to the 15inch monitor setting.

 

Or you can use ms paint and then go save as and save it to another file name.

 

can't wait to see her.

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You can do it through the upload process.

 

using imageshack.us and set it to the 15inch monitor setting.

 

Or you can use ms paint and then go save as and save it to another file name.

 

can't wait to see her.

 

Thanks Mate,

 

Tried it tonight, here is a pic, it was taken a while ago. Its a bit cleaner now:) Will load up some more soon.

 

Chrispost-5149-1215006581_thumb.jpg

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as in the big block on the back of the head?

 

if so how the hell did you manage to fit that in there?

 

have you seen the 20v cooling guide I wrote?

 

Yeh mate, just the standard block on back of head, it doesnt stick out as much as the complete dizzy and i still have that on. It fits pretty neat. I have made the engine mounts my self to position the motor iin the right spot.

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looks good i'm doing same conversion atm in to my 55.

have you driven it? engineered?

 

just wondering if there would be any problems with mounting the engine so far forward?

 

i'll be doing this... http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=1012 to solve my cooling issue. and then a signal splitter to take care if the dizzy. thus mounting the

motor close to the firewall.

 

to make it look like this...

post-4780-1215223774_thumb.jpg

picture taken from club4ag

Edited by blackrolla80
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This looks awesome. Did you just mount the engine further forward to clear all the water inlets and stuff. The only thing that that might do is change the balance of your car, now considering that there is more weight over the front of the crossmember. The only way though is to take it for a drive and find out when your finished. Otherwise great conversion, and I really like the colour too. Keep the pics coming ;) ;)

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This looks awesome. Did you just mount the engine further forward to clear all the water inlets and stuff. The only thing that that might do is change the balance of your car, now considering that there is more weight over the front of the crossmember. The only way though is to take it for a drive and find out when your finished. Otherwise great conversion, and I really like the colour too. Keep the pics coming :D :yes:

 

Hey :D

 

The car has been driven know for a few weeks. Seems great. The only prob so far is the slave cylinder on sharpleft hand turns, its close on the inner tie rod end. I am in the middle of putting a stereo in it right now. Here is a pic in the workshop on the weekend.

post-5149-1215338100_thumb.jpg

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looks good i'm doing same conversion atm in to my 55.

have you driven it? engineered?

 

just wondering if there would be any problems with mounting the engine so far forward?

 

i'll be doing this... http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=1012 to solve my cooling issue.

 

my personal opinion is that this is lunacy, but yeah just me. instead of permenently modifying the head and welding why not just fit a bypas plate like everyone else?

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that guy boring a hole in the head and then welding it all up when a simple thin bypass plate would do exactly the same job and is reversable. Even a 12mm plate can support a channel thick enough to bypass the necessary fluid and as a bonus the head doesnt need to come off.

 

I know theres no right or wrong but instead just my opinion though...

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that guy boring a hole in the head and then welding it all up when a simple thin bypass plate would do exactly the same job and is reversable. Even a 12mm plate can support a channel thick enough to bypass the necessary fluid and as a bonus the head doesnt need to come off.

 

I know theres no right or wrong but instead just my opinion though...

 

I think your right, its rediculus to remove the head when a blanking plate would be fine. And if it ever was to corode easy to replace. Do you like my car?

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