s0oty Posted August 10, 2008 Report Posted August 10, 2008 Hi all Who has done this conversion and what bits did you use. I want to do this to my rally car. Running a 4AGE and T50. Cheers Quote
Jono Posted August 10, 2008 Report Posted August 10, 2008 i used an NG Pajero master cylinder, its short enough to fit behind the inlet manifold even with the motor sitting as far back as it will go. My mate welded in a metal plate into the firewall to support it so it wouldn't flex; the firewall WILL flex if you don't support it somehow. make up some new hard lines and then a flex line to the slave cylinder. bit less to do if you use a JDM T50 as the clutch fork is on the inlet side. Quote
SeptemberSquall Posted August 11, 2008 Report Posted August 11, 2008 i used an NG Pajero master cylinder, its short enough to fit behind the inlet manifold even with the motor sitting as far back as it will go. My mate welded in a metal plate into the firewall to support it so it wouldn't flex; the firewall WILL flex if you don't support it somehow.make up some new hard lines and then a flex line to the slave cylinder. bit less to do if you use a JDM T50 as the clutch fork is on the inlet side. or a celica t50 if you are running it in a ke2# this will give the closest result to factory shifter position too depending on how you have mounted the engine Quote
s0oty Posted August 12, 2008 Author Report Posted August 12, 2008 t50 is a alloy split case 22 spline. I've got the 4age twin carbed as well if that makes a diff to where and what gets used. Looks like either the clutch fork is a cable type of it's been modded to suit cable. I've been wondering where and how firewall is braced for clutch m/cyl. Has anyone got some pics of their swap? Quote
Pieman Posted August 14, 2008 Report Posted August 14, 2008 These might be helpful: Instead of drilling a hole in the pedal to put a clevis pin through, mines been relocated to just behind the strut tower by welding a Z shaped length of metal plate to the hook that pulls the clutch cable. Quote
s0oty Posted August 15, 2008 Author Report Posted August 15, 2008 (edited) Cheers Pieman. You've done a good job there. That's given me some good ideas. Here's some pictures of my engine bay with and without motor. (still learning on how to post pics so forgive me if these don't show up) The remote booster is on rh guard just behind headlamp. I should have enough room to mount clutch m/c inline with pedal. I've been given a m/c and slave (i think off a ae85/6) etc so I'll see if that fits. Edited August 15, 2008 by s0oty Quote
s0oty Posted August 23, 2008 Author Report Posted August 23, 2008 While the motor is out I'm going to re-do brakes set-up. Deciding to use an adjustable pedal box with triple m/c's. Will make hydro clutch mod easier too. What has been used or what is recommended? I know Wilwood has some good set-ups, but which type of set-up would be best? :jamie: Quote
Ke20nut Posted August 23, 2008 Report Posted August 23, 2008 give pete a call a Hoppers Stoppers in victoria (hoppers crossing) he has engineered complete brake set up kits for twin piston calipers . or google him he has pis on the website Quote
ca18rolla Posted August 24, 2008 Report Posted August 24, 2008 give pete a call a Hoppers Stoppers in victoria (hoppers crossing) he has engineered complete brake set up kits for twin piston calipers . or google him he has pis on the website I have the hopper stopper twin piston kit on my car the only problem i found is that the front shocks and springs need t be changed to suit the extra unsprung weight. They do work pretty good not quite as i expect but i think the length of the push rod(? the part that push on the piston of the master cyl) needs to made longer. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.