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Te72 (t18) Brake And Suspension Conversions


Phrantic

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Hi everyone.

 

I have rescued a TE72 from certain wrecking and am turning her into a club car just to compete in local events. (She's a bit rough but I think she has a bit more life left in her yet!)

 

I would like to upgrade the front brakes. I have standard rotors but would like to upgrade to bigger callipers. What would be compatible without too much modification?

 

Also, with regards to suspension, what lower control arms can be used to give the car more camber? And is it true that the suspension out of an AE86 will bolt straight in?

 

Thanks :sob:

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i believe that the ae86 had the same floor pan deisgn, so technically yes, it should work.

 

Although try some sigma or possibly corona lca's. As for brakes, look into the RA40 celica front discs for bigger discs, althought this means you have to move to a 14'' wheel in the front with your calliper aswell, the ra40 calliper again is a good and easy upgrade but i would prefer to move to a 4 spot hilux calliper.

 

BEWARE :- you do have to dick with your master cylinder, its poor little heart wont have anything in her to stomp on a bigger calliper.

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RA40 gear shouldn't be fitted to a KE, the kingpin angle is completely out of whack, you'll need camber tops, massive RCA's and it still won't handle as good a struts that match the geometry as whats coming out of the car. Yes, you can make it work ok, many people have with some cash injection. Go with an early corona strut if you like corners, have a search on the site, this topic has been covered many times before.

 

Corona LCA's are the go for around 1 - 2 deg neg camber, sigma arms are around the 3- 4 deg mark.

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Yep, AE71, AE86, KE70, T18, all share the same wheelbase, floorpan and steering geometry. The strut tower changes a little, between the models, so you need to use your cars strut tops with the new struts.

 

T18 brakes have a simlar size and pad area as the ADM AE86, so just getting some decent pads in there will make the thing brake alot better.

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LoL, you bought an old rolla without even knowing they're a poor man's AE86 :sob: You're lucky you didn't end up in a lancer or Hyundai :hmm:

 

Upgrade list looks spot on. Work up the suspension first, learning to drive the car on the edge with a factory motor that won't get you in too much trouble. Then get some nice bolt ons for the motor and you'll be laughing. Rolla's are the shiz niggle of budget RWD beasts.

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Yes, there is no kingpin's in modern cars, they're all stub axles these days, but the "Kingpin angle" is a term used by a suspension guru I know, and he's got enough track record holding cars for me to speak his words as gospel :fuzz:

 

Quote found on google search of kingpin:

 

"The kingpin is the main pivot in the steering mechanism of a car or other vehicle. Originally this was literally a steel pin on which the moveable, steerable wheel was mounted to the suspension. In more modern designs, it may not physically exist as an actual pin, but the axis around which the steered wheels pivot is still referred to as the kingpin."

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RA40 gear shouldn't be fitted to a KE, the kingpin angle is completely out of whack, you'll need camber tops, massive RCA's and it still won't handle as good a struts that match the geometry as whats coming out of the car. Yes, you can make it work ok, many people have with some cash injection. Go with an early corona strut if you like corners, have a search on the site, this topic has been covered many times before.

 

Corona LCA's are the go for around 1 - 2 deg neg camber, sigma arms are around the 3- 4 deg mark.

 

I don't understand what you mean by "don't put RA40 gear in a KE"...

 

I have RA40 struts in my KE30, top and bottom springs mounts are the KE30 items, KE30 lowered springs, RA40 brakes and pads, and RA40 LCA..

there is a little increase in camber, but not as much as a Sigma arm for example...

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Warning! This might take a minute or 2 to load. I got bored and did a 3D model to explain this.

It comes up so often it needs to be explained properly. Steering arms are meant to act on the same plane as the steering rack.

 

The further you are from the plane of the steering rack, the more bump steer you get as the steering arm moves in and out as the strut compresses and rebounds because the pin for the tie rod is not perpendicular with the rack.

 

Don't try and look at the whole thing, just watch the link pin for the tie rod end.

 

Not 100% to scale, but it clearly shows what's going on.

 

Corolla Strut Not too bad in a lowered position, but the steering arm is not on the same plane as the steering rack.

corollastrutbi5.gif

 

RA40 Strut Fitted to corolla with longer LCA's and/or camber tops ... Steering arm is not acting on the same plane at all.

ra40strutbo3.gif

Edited by beerhead
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