OK, brakes started getting crap on saturday night after coming out of the hills. Drove around a bit like that then on the tuesday morning the master cyl went. I've replaced the wheel cylinders and swaped the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes twice (got told the proper sequence the 2nd time) and now the pedal is still soft as and sinks almost to the floor. I just about put my foot thru the door before so i walked away from it. Anyone got any ideas on wtf could be goin wrong.

master cylinder is still full of air pockets. System has not been bled properly.

hey there , could be the drums are not adjusted properly ,front pads or rear sheos could be stuffed , or it could be some thing simple like one of the bleeders could be loose ,booster's shot

f@$ked your master cylinder while bleeding brakes. Describe how you bled them.

Bled them as per usual. Undo the bleed nipple, attach a bleeding hose. Submerge end of hose in a pot of brake fluid. then procceded to pump pedal only going hlf way as not to darn the seals. did this until only brake fulid came out. Repeated for the other wheels. worked in a sequence; furthest away from master first. Passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, drivers front.

 

I got the feel of the pedal with the master cyl on and of and there seemed to be no difference in feel between master cylinder on and off.

Got them done guys. With some quality advise from Raven and help from Charity Rolla. Thanks goes out to both of you.

so how did you fix it? i hate brake problems, always leads to lots of mess :)

sounds like air in the system, when I have a soft pedal that can't bleed normally I use a vacuum canister attached to the bleed screws. this continuously draws fluid air out.

 

tip never shake up brake fluid or reuse bleed out fluid unless it has settled for a minimum of 10 minutes.

just did them the way i'd done them before, which i thougth was the right way. Mick told me the right way, got Jason to come round and we done it the "right right" way and it turned out all good.

Excellent to hear you've got it worked out. We bled the brakes on the KE55 about five times, still felt like there was a bit of an airlock somewhere in the system. The pedal feels very light, but it still stops alright so there can't be too much wrong with it.

You need two men.

 

One pumping up the pedal and one cracking the bleed nipple in a bottle of old fluid. Seal up the bleed nipple while the pedal is still hard on the floor.

 

If the master f@$ks out, replace it. Id prefer it to darn out while sitting in the driveway/garage.

if i replace pads i remove some fluid as i backflows when pads are pushed back,

and start the bleed from furthest wheel from master.

 

then you can bleed using do 2 man method - don't let master run out and you need to push the pedal

before opening the nipple and close before pedal hits floor to avoid a clean feed with no air as well

as keeping the line immersed under fluid to stop air getting in and flowing up the line.

 

or use a 1 man brake bleeding kit - the good one with a clear tube and a black rubber cylinder end

on it not the rubbish bottle one. don't let master run out and just crack nipple just enough to allow pedal to

move easily, no need to open or close nipple due to 1 way valve and no need to immerse

in fluid either due to same 1 way valve action, just put in tin and pump pedal until done.

 

also in newer cars if you run out of fluid in the master it causes air pockets which have to be

taken in to a shop to get sucked out with some vacuum bleed or something from what i have heard,

so be careful with that.

 

always take hand brake off as it sometimes causes problems and chock car and most important

pump the pedal to get the brakes back (fills brake slaves up) before you drive off :jamie:

i'd much rather just do it with two people who roughly know what they are doing lol

its pretty simple once you've done it a few times