I came accross this vid on youtube recently.

 

Any person that excepts this as a suitable means to repair a car needs to be shot did and have their given to someone that will will treat it right.

 

 

:y:

Edited January 4, 200917 yr by Gspec

haha

thats funny as

some people and their 'how to' guides aye

some people and their 'how to' guides aye

 

Sadly thats not some random dude off the street, thats a video made by Haynes, an automative book publisher.

 

:y:

for that size repair and for people that don't have access to welders to patch the rust and don't wanna have to take their car to a bodyshop, i don't see a problem with it. Sure if it was a bigger rust patch then get it doen properly.

 

The repair turned out fine and for the average joe its cheap and easy. I know i wouldnt fork out to take my car to a body shop to get a spot that size fixed.

for that size repair and for people that don't have access to welders to patch the rust and don't wanna have to take their car to a bodyshop, i don't see a problem with it

. Sure if it was a bigger rust patch then get it doen properly.

 

The repair turned out fine and for the average joe its cheap and easy. I know i wouldnt fork out to take my car to a body shop to get a spot that size fixed.

 

If you follow the advise in that video, you will only make matters worse.

 

Here's a few thing we need to consider:

- Unsealed metal will rust.

- Bog is porous

- Fibrefill is only a bog re-enforcer, it does not make bog water tight.

- The SYMPTOM was HIDEN, rust was not repaired.

 

You can still do a thorough rust patch-up without a welder.

1) remove ALL rust.. front and back and anywhere it may be hiding.

2) coat all bare metal with a good quility rust paint.

3) once dry, scuff area thoroughly

4) now patch as per video

 

OR

 

buy a propain tourch, some flux and some brass rods.

 

 

Before you walk off thinking your job is done, stop! Rust accured there for a reason, figure out why it rusted there then take action to revent it from accuring again.

Corollas ALL rust in the same places, they all have water issues, adress these issues and the rust is less liekly to return.

 

:y:

what would have been a more suitable repair ? lead fill or cut and weld in new steel ?

 

oops just re read the post i must have hit enter after you already answered the queston

Edited January 4, 200917 yr by Budowski

err thats very similar to how i do all my body repair work, wire brush it back, use propper fibreglassing, ie the matting and resin, bog over the top, sand lots and paint

 

easy as and is very strong and wont rust as fibreglass dosent rust

Sadly thats not some random dude off the street, thats a video made by Haynes, an automative book publisher.

 

:y:

 

 

Umm haynes = random, I refuse to buy haynes manuals as the info they give is normally from a random, Gregory's or a car manufacturer book is better.

what would have been a more suitable repair ? lead fill or cut and weld in new steel ?

 

Depends on a few things but GENERALLY if its not too big good lead fill is pretty good.

 

err thats very similar to how i do all my body repair work, wire brush it back, use propper fibreglassing, ie the matting and resin, bog over the top, sand lots and paint

 

easy as and is very strong and wont rust as fibreglass dosent rust

 

Thats the ticket my friend.

 

Do you seal the metal before apllying the fibreglass, as FG can pull away from bare metal leaving the tiniest gap. This can accure through movment or through the shrinkage during the curing stage.

by sealing the metal do you mean sand it back and apply resin then fibreglass?

No. I mean get some paint on there first, preferabley rust paint (POR 15)

 

The resin can pull away from the metal. The gap will be micro scopic but it can lead to moister getting in there and turning everything to pus again.

Where as if you get some good paint on there, the paint wil adhere to the metal better and the resin will adhere better to the paint.

 

AND it will mean double protection.

 

:y:

o really? no i don't do that

 

i thought fibreglass only stuck to bare metal the best not paint

o really? no i don't do that

 

i thought fibreglass only stuck to bare metal the best not paint

 

Ok lets say resin doesn't stick as well to paint as it does to metal...

Worse case sinario the resin to paint join cracks .. the metal is still sealed and protected.

 

Fibreglass is easier to repair than rust and a small amount of rust is easier to repair than a big hole.

 

I'd rather chance a crack in the paint than chance rust reforming.

 

:y:

AH Magic I wonder if they demonstrate fly wire for those big holes. :y:

 

If it was sealed on the back it might last a while but probably not in a wheel arch.

it's all about the dangle lads one bloke swings one way (insert fiberglass) the other bloke swings the other way (insert bog) :y: