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Brake Cylinders Keep Blowing Up Help!!!


muzke30

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i had a similar problem in my ke70

my bake cylinders were leaking so i replaced them then after the second handbrakie one popped the piston out

so i pulled the brake cylinder out then fixed the rubber bit up and pushed the piston back in and never had a problem since

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handbrake operates rear mechanical system on brakes

foot pedal operates hydraulic single system on all brakes or hydraulic dual circuit system on all brakes

 

don't know whats causing your problem, drums too worn, shoes too worn, incorrect adjustment,

incorrect gaps, too much heat, warped or out of round drums, cables incorectly adjusted,

wrong cylinders ie id diameter too big, adjuster if you have one not working... ??

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handbrake operates rear mechanical system on brakes

foot pedal operates hydraulic single system on all brakes or hydraulic dual circuit system on all brakes

 

don't know whats causing your problem, drums too worn, shoes too worn, incorrect adjustment,

incorrect gaps, too much heat, warped or out of round drums, cables incorectly adjusted,

wrong cylinders ie id diameter too big, adjuster if you have one not working... ??

 

Any help on what the "correct gaps" are to me they look correct the i changed both and been working for a month and now the right one poped changed it and poped again yet i compared it to the one thats working LOOKS EXACTLY THE SAME :P unless the the drum is warped dunno have to get someone with rolla knowledge to look at it

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Any help on what the "correct gaps" are to me they look correct the i changed both and been working for a month and now the right one poped changed it and poped again yet i compared it to the one thats working LOOKS EXACTLY THE SAME :P unless the the drum is warped dunno have to get someone with rolla knowledge to look at it

 

 

Everyones just saying the same things over and over again.

 

Until you spend the 30 odd dollars on a service manual you will never know what thickness or tolerance anything should have. Do you really plan to ask the measurement/tolerance of us, not provide pictures and still have us solve a problem for you? Comeon buddy, work with us! People are willing to help you, don't waste their time.

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Any help on what the "correct gaps" are to me they look correct the i changed both and been working for a month and now the right one poped changed it and poped again yet i compared it to the one thats working LOOKS EXACTLY THE SAME :P unless the the drum is warped dunno have to get someone with rolla knowledge to look at it

 

try borrow or buy a manual, thats probably the best way as theres diagrams and tutorials for

everything... there are particular types of systems for ke rollas ie jap/aus or early/late etc etc

the brake chapter in the manual is 20 pages long unfortunately... else id write it up here to help

you suss it out.

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at work if one is leaking we replace both. because "apparently" if you replace the leaking one the other one will work harder than the new one therefore leak

 

 

how many you gone through?

 

did you replace one and the other one started leaking?

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sorry guys wasnt trying to make u do my work for me just respect all ur vast knowledge as lot people on here are very helpful and have been through alot of similar problems before and can find information quickly anyway enough sucking up this what i found in my gregory's

 

Rear drum diameter 7.874inch machining limit 7.952 inch so i see if my mate has the that electronic measuring toll see if its past that 7.952 inch limit

 

disc pads (shoes) .354inch thickness .040inch wear limit

 

looked at both diagrams mine looks closest to late type which is on pg113 (for those of u playing at home lol)

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I was having a bit of a think about this.

 

What I'd try doing is back off the handbrake adjustment at the handbrake lever. Then at the rear, adjust the drums out until they lock, then back off until they just lightly drag. Once you've done that then adjust the handbrake at the lever.

 

If the rear shoe adjusters aren't self adjusting as they should (common for them to seize), and the handbrake adjustment at the lever is wound up, the pistons in the wheel cylinders need to travel a lot further than what they should.... possibly falling out.

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AH HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA FUKEN LEGENDS WILL TRY THAT

now thats smart thinking that i need bit of trouble shooting thatns FELIX & EVAN, and everyone else for put in some info will let u all know tommoro evening how i went first on my to do list after work :P

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ALSO GOT part numbers on the shoes N1356 and N1189 do i get the pbr one these both came out on a Ke30 and i know mine is the later model type according to gregory's its same as diagram but the guys at repco don't know which part number to order they say it may be the N1356 as its pbr

 

I have BS 46 on inside of my current shoes means nothing to repco :P

 

my shoes are worn un even wen i looked at the bottom of the shoes the are thin rest is thick thats y i never noticed it in first place Shameful :$

 

Thanks for the help

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andrew. they are surpose to be worn unevenly (thats drums for yah) as the piston move out bottom of the shoes grabs

 

(check figure 5) http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/drum-brake1.htm

 

 

diagnose the problem, don't replace all the componets and hoping it fixes the problem

 

(lights don't work, replace lights, still don't work, check whole wiring loom, find nothing, and your mate asks "did you check the fuse?"

 

and there you know it fuse is blown)

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