JDM55 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 just out of interest is there any one from melbourne that can get leafs reset cheaper than 350 ???? been getting a few quotes and thats what i seem to be coming up with,I'm sure there must be some one else who can do the same job for cheaper??? pedders is a rip, ive had a set done for 240 a few years ago, any one ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 big update!!!! :dance: well I'm stuft! been working like a machine the past 2 days , pushing to get things happening, thursday nite was spent making a few more hard lines to connect up the surge tank, ironicly while i was stuffing around looking for bits and pieces i came across a set of metal hole saws with a massive extention bar !!!!!!!!!!!! doh ,so could have used that on the radiator !! :bash: any way not to worry the job was done regardless, so finishing off the fuel lines, a job i was absolutely dreading after the previous expereinces.... but the main fuel lines fitted and connecting the fuel pump to a fuel filter and then from there to the surge tank, again these were hard lines i made out of bundy tube and speed flow hard line fittings ,along with the use of the 37 degree flair tool, that is deffinatley the best flair tool ive used ,makes realy nice flares with little effort, but more inprotantly these flairs seal realy well . friday nite was fairly hectic in the work shop!! got a call late friday afternoon that my radiator was finished!! was stoked about that ,thought it was going to be several weeks for sure, any way friday nite was a mission to complete the fuel lines the last pieces to the puzzel was the lines from the end of the braided lines to the engine and the return line, sounds simple enuff but took a lot of stuffing around and rolling around on the ground with my hands jamed in the tightest spots under the plenumm. i fitted a check valve to the end of the braided line , (for those who don't know what that is ,its simply a valve that lets the fuel thru but dosent let it flow back to the fuel pump,which can cause damage to your 250 dollar pump) from there added some more fittings, these ones were a 5/16 push on fitting that screws to the line via adaptors,the allows you to fitt a rubber fuel line , so much easyier to work with the efi rubber fuel line!@!!@!@!@!@!@ was realy enjoying putting these parts into place, just a simple rubber hose and clamps, wish the speed flow stuff was this easy,lol so from the new fitting i ran a hose up to a efi fuel filter, now i got hold of a fuel pump bracket , and used some rubber to close the gap down a bit,this held my efi filter, very snugg and looks realy pro :yes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 this is the fuel filter and bracket fitted ,happy with its position and where it managed to sit, the bracket and filter were rather large ,took a bit of stuffing around to get the right place for it. from there first i went straight up to the fuel rail line with a hose, but remembered that i had a fuel pressure gauge sender to fitt in the line some where, so again after much stuffing around and thought, i ended up squessing the sender inbetween the filter and fuel rail, but means of a small bracket bolted to the plenumm,...... wooo getting there now :dance: next the return line, was fairly easy, just went from the return line down under the plenumm with a hose clamp here and there, routed it to the fitting on the return braided line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Just looks like you have to fit the rad and cooler plumbing and it will run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 also started to lay a bit of the underlay inside , so that was friday nite taken care of, set up some things for saturday prior as i knew it was going to get hectic, saturday morning , raced down to pick up my radiator! got there and yes it was indeed finished , and the welding was great,they did a realy good job ,specialy since i handed them a choped up thing lol, but a quick plug :: RACE RADIATORS in dandenong is the place to go for alloy welding and radiator work, they do make full custom ones,and can do what ever in alloy, they also welded my surge tank and that came out realy great as well , so i can recomended them :happy: so got hold of the radiator! which ment big things! was very excited saturday morning casue i knew things were going to take off very quickly from here....... well thats what i thought at the time any way..... got back with the radiator, looked it over and they had done eexactly what i had asked! the spouts were perfectly welded in the exact spots and also the fittings and the engine water out let was welded very well, i decided that the factory polishing was shit , so i spent several hours sanding the radi back ,using the same process explained prievously when doing my alternator, 180 240 320 500 800 1200 1500 grits were all used, then pulled out the buff wheel ,put it on to the drill and went to town!!, came up realy nice and was happy with how it looked, a quick note, the guy at the rad shop asked me how much it cost me, i told him it was 180, which it was , he was like aww yeah nice you just got a custom radiator for 280 dollars! they usualy charge 650 for something like that , so i saved a big ass amount of money , even tho there were a few dramas and stuff arounds in the end, it was well worth it , you work it out 180 for rad, 100 cash for welding which was very fair price, = 280 verses 650 to 700!!!!! we have a winner :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: onto the engine water outlet, i preped the block , then on to the outlet it self, now this pretty much stopped my speedy progress dead cold, i had a fitting weled in , this fitting was for a temp sensor for my dash gauge, before habd the fitting and the sensor went together like a cock in a vagina :wink: HOW EVER!! when i went to fit the sensor :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: it wouldnt fit!! i threaded the fitting trying to force it in there ,it just refused to screw in nice like before,no idea why, any way what i ended up doing was i found a set of tap an dies , but the sizes there were totaly differnt from the sensor thread size and the fitting thread size :bash: :bash: :bash: ahhhhh come on!!!! started to get rather anoyed,managed to keep my cool and forced a threading tool in to the out let and change the thread size to a completely different size!! dunno how that worked but it did then to match it, i took the sensor and put it in the vice.... used the matching thread size tool on to the sensor it self and managed to completely change the thread size on the sensor!! was rather amazed that actualy worked! , any way from there screwed it in and it was a beautiful thing , ahhh vagina :laff: and fitted back to place minus a few mm of alloy ,lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Just looks like you have to fit the rad and cooler plumbing and it will run. yeah this gap is looking rather lonely at the mo but wait theres more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 need to deal to that lonely gap , so with the finished rad, i assembled my custom thermo fan set up and bolted that down to the rad, it looks mad ,love it, any way heres some shots of the welds all put together and ready to fit !!!looks like a 650 dollar radiator lololol :lolcry: bolted it in and got the custom bottom hose fitted on, i added clamps to where i had made the join between the two pieces, honestly i don't think it needs clamps , i gave it a good bending and its sealed realy well, but safe side won,so 2 clamps slammed on there, the hose fit perfectly , :) very pleased , i thought the welding of the parts mite have changed there position just a little bit, and i may have to adjust things , but no. it was pefect as if it was spose to be there :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 NEXT!!!!!!!! powering through the work at this point ,was awesum, the hose from the top to the outlet need to be fitted , was it going to fit??? yes it does as per the bottom hose! now thats custom fit :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: got the hoses all tight and clamped up ,sorted out the fan wiring and the thermo switch wiring, and then added antifrezze and water!!!! woo stoked at ths point , now i have completed fuel lines , engine has fuel!!!!! and NO LEAKS!!!!!!! :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: AND engine has water!!! and NO LEAKS!!!!! :dance: :dance: :dance: can't tell you guys how happy that made me, after all the hard work and the failed attemps at making fuel lines ,and all the dramas to finally have it at this stage with proper custom fuel lines and no leaks ,and a half decent radiator also no leaks ,makes me happy chappy, definatley a huge step forward , after 3 years of busting ass to get this to this stage, its looking like it was worth it ,can feel the excitment building , realy realy want to take this for a drive! haha , so from here I'm guessing 80 -90 percent finished ,have to say I'm fairly proud of what ive managed to do on my own with next to no money ,and not much help, i kinda think i should be doing this sort of stuff for a job, I'm wasting my talents just painting smashed cars, but continuing on ! that was about half way thru saturday when the water went in the rad,thought id take a break from the engine for a bit ,still heaps to do in that department ,but things are becoming clearer and can see what i need to focus on , so steping back for a bit, i went to the boot, also needed to get this finished as well, most of this was just stereo wiring , but so many dam wires, i realy enjoy wiring ,but it sure takes a very very long time to do a proper job, working out where each wire needs to go, how to run it there and what sort of connection are needed, making custom looms etc etc , any got in the boot and sorted the wires out finally, only thing that was missing was a 60amp fuse for the fuse box to the amp, how ever today i was at jolly rogers, just went for a quick look as they have just opened up near my place, so wanted to see if any of the olded cars were available for raping, now this is a very rare sight indeed ,especialy in the local wreakers, found a s13 silvia , still faily intact minus the struts, not that i needed any thing from it but was surprised to see one around here, any ways i scored a charcoal canister from it ,as i was going to need to look at that at some stage soon any way, and there happend to be a 60amp fuze in the holder on it as well so scored that for freeee thanks jolly rogers lol back to the boot! got the wiring done and sub box bolted back in and fairly well finished, few more bits here and there but the overall state of it is complete ,enuff to keep me happy for a while, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 WTF IS GOING ON HERE!!!!!!!!!!! i lost my mind , ive been pushing so hard to get to a point where i can start the car, i pray that it will work after completely chopping the wiring loom in half,and all the hectic computer wiring thats been done, gets a bit over whelming the wiring side ,but i was fairly confident the wiring side would work, also i have many things i wanted to check over, there was a big concern about the front cover leak, i think i spoke about that a while ago?any way there was a rather nasty leak of oil coming from the front cover in 3 places, i scraped away all the sealer from around the area ,and cleaned it up the best i could, resealed the out side area and used a heat gun to make it dry quickly, then i resealed over the top of the first layer of sealer!!! then painted it up back to how it was, i big concern because of taking the front cover off properly to replace the gasket or seal it from the inside is a very big job and a major brick wall in the build, some thing i realy don't have the money to do or realy the time, ive also read about the problem online and alot of people have said that the engine can just gets replaced due to the way there set up its a absolute C#$%#$$ of a job to try repair it , so all that in mind , i have a big concern about it,another thing ive been worryed about is the sandwhich plate and oil relocation thingo, yeah it looks cool and all that , but also another item ive heard nasty things about , so theres 2 main concerns i wanted to check before going any further at all, then theres my wiring.. realy needed to get the car to start and run to know that the crazy wiring ive done is actulay going to work,, so theres 3 things, also small things the heater hoses, the hoses going from the engne to the fire wall were very very hard to fit, next to no room to get your hand in there let alone a rubber hose clamps and tools to fit them, that job took me about 5 hours , it was very hard and involved alot of throwing tools and foul language and yelling very loud at the car,lol so 4 things also ,one thing i can't realy check but at least get an idea , and that is the fuel set up, will the vl turbo in tank pump be able to keep up with the 044 bosch monsta pump???? have a fear of it sucking the surge tank dry before the little pump can re fill it??? 5 things! plus a few other little things but most definatley those things were my big main concerns, in the pic , well what i done was basicly the most basic form of seting the engine up as possible, fitted the afm with filter to the turbo fitted some turbo piping just ruffly to get from the out let to the throttle body, yes it looks retarded but all i wanted was metered air geting in there, made a few dodgy wiring looms and hooked them up connected the battery turned on the circuit breaker turned on another circuit breaker turned on the dodgy ass main ign switch i made and................ well the power came on, the fuel pumps turned on, THEY ARE VERY LOUD!!!!!!!!!!!!!! had a dodgy battery light wired up as i have no dash in there , also had a dodgy oil light hooked up , the lights were on ,the pumps were working , i had air i had power i had fuel ,i had water for cooling! it was ready to start!!!!!!!! very nurvous at this point pressed the push button starting switch and what happened?????? well it cranked for a bit , done a few quick cranks , then held the starter button down and it cranked maybe 5 seconds and then boom /..../././.. all the power cut completely , the lights went out there was nothing :sob: :sob: :sob: :sob: :sob: :sob: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 That Silvia looks N/A. Be careful with that charcoal canister, they don't have a boost check valve in them. I used a bombadore one on dads datto, and it would pressurize the fuel tank on boost. I recently changed to a series 1 R33 gtst one, they are tiny and all good with boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 what happened was the main ciruit breaker at the battery cut and shut off all the power, i think mite have to up rate this breaker, i did have a 200 amp one in there that would have worked perfect, but i broke it so had to replace it ,and at the time i could only find a 120 amp one, so alot lower, how ever its kind of good to know that the circuit breaker does what its spose to do by cutting the power and protecting the battery cable and all the electricals, but in my case i needed to be able to crank it a bit longer be fore it cut, so probably need an up rate, no big deal i guess just another 40 - 50 dollars to replace. that kinda put a damper on the whole last few days work and progress,was pretty disapointed, needless to say wasnt giving up just yet, had to wait abit to be able to reset the breaker, reset it and got the power back on , tryed to do short cranks so it wouldnt trip the breaker again, but it tripped again :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: it wasnt going to let me crank long enuff to start the thing!! took a break and had a coffee and smoke and came back to it, reset it again ..... cranked again and again and again , NOTHING!!! i decided it wasnt firing for some reason, at that point i thought it could be anything at all! so many wires and circuits and things with these engines , could be the colour of the sky or the alignment of the moon even !!! so there was the first hurdle, circuit breaker needed to be up rated for a start, next have to find out why its not firing... stuck my head under the dash and just went blank... ill get a pic of the wiring under there, its rediculous , just a sea of spagetti going every where!! and all of it has to be there , aahaahahaahahahahahhaha losing the plot now, just want to hear it fire up!!!! looked at the computer and woundered if i had connected every thing i needed to make it work??? figured the computer must be working ,becasue it controls the main pump, by priming the pump at start up and then shuts it off untill needed. checked over my plugs ,every thing was connected tight and should have been working perfectly , i had wired it up exactly the same as the 2 preivous start up so why is it not working now i thought??????????????????? found that some of the wires coming off the computer hadnt been connected to anything , for what ever reason i had just ignored them, check out the diagrams and found the wires that wernt connected were , tacho speedo and temp ,so not exaclty what i needed to start the car, but then there were 2 more wires one an earth and one a orange wire turns out the orange was spose to go to the solinoid and the black to earth????? well thats what i figured from the diagrams , so connected the black to earth and the orange to the started solinoid, turned it all off, disconnected the battery then connected the battery back up turned all the circuit breakers back on ,turned the dodgy ign switch on and the batt and oil lights came on, gota be this time?? pressed the button .... not even 2 seconds , and it started!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: all it was was 2 wires! even the battery circuit breaker didnt stop me! she fired up ,no exhaust on it just straight out , and f#%$ me it was LOUD AS f$%#!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! VERY HAPPY I GOT IT TO START!!!!!! was a great moment indeed , gave it a hard rev and f@#$#$$ me !! this things off its head!!!! so bloody responsive !! just breathe on the pedal and she wants to go! sounds sooo tuff winding up ,the turbo kicking in sounds mad as hell, ,let it idle for a while and settle it self been sitting for over a year on a engine stand lol, she goes tho thats the main thing! shut it down, jacked it up and checked over the engine very closely , oil leak :sob: as suspected right at the bottom of the sandwhich plate ,it wasnt a huge dripping leak ,more of a seap,just ever so slowly leaking its way out, big conncern , getting to that plate is very tuff, and fitting a spanner the right size somethng like a 32mm spanner , its big and long, and doesnt fit onto tight spaces well enuff to allow you to turn it, hunted the work shop, must be alternative to the spanner, we have a lot of tools in the shop, i have my own set , but ive got mostly basic stuff, tho my collecting is growing due to this car, so hunted and found a realy big ass multi grip tool that opened out realy large and had short handles, got the tool in there and tryed cranking on the sandwhich plate, it actualy did turn about 1/4 of a turn even tho i had it tight as F@#$ before , the heat must lossen things up abit? any ways , gave it my best crank i could , and it did tighten a bit, could still see oil around the bottom tho, a tiny bit but still there, now weather that was new oil after the cranking or oil that was just sitting there before ,i don't know.... so its something I'm going to have to keep an eye on , front cover...................... unsure about this one, no leaks so far tho which is great , but like i said before once things get heated up could be a differnt story, fingers crossed there but looks ok so far, wiring ..... well she started! so i must have done something rite, alternator wiring........... fully working, i had 11.6 volts in the battery at start up , with car running the batter is getting 13.9 -14 volts , which is realy good considering the lenght of the battery cable and voltage drop over distance, so my rebuilt alternator is working and so is the wiring for that fuel pumps..... well both are working , the 044 is very loud! did i say it was loud? ill speak up a bit ITS LOOOUUDD! something ill get used to i guess, the vl pump, is loud as well but ,once all the sound proofing and fuel tank cover and parcel shelf cover get all put back in and the back seat and carpets I'm guessing it will silence it a bit, but you can hear the fuel in the surge tank , bubbling a bit , so not sure it that vl pump is going to keep up yet , yeah so thats about covers most of it , so a massive weekend for me , been working my ass off and finally got the car ruff started, and it sounds monsta, its going to be very quick, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 That Silvia looks N/A. Be careful with that charcoal canister, they don't have a boost check valve in them. I used a bombadore one on dads datto, and it would pressurize the fuel tank on boost. I recently changed to a series 1 R33 gtst one, they are tiny and all good with boost. ahhhh awesum thanks for that, i had no idea about that sort of thing , ill ditch it right away and hunt for a more suitable one, an r33 wouldnt be easy to find I'm guessin tho , all the jap stuff seems to be a bit trickey and pricey, but thanks for the heads up, don't need more problems at this stage in the game :y: :y: :y: :y: :y: :y: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) Your fist engine start should always be with a mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up! even if its just temporary. Progress is so good, great story, great write up. :yes: I'm sure you'll sort that minor issue pretty quick. :y: Just for your info, the oil pressure sender has a 'tapered thread' on it requiring a special tap. The welding would have distorted your weld on fitting which is why it wouldnt screw in like it used to. :y: edit: you beat me to it, nice work, she starts and runs!!! Edited February 12, 2012 by oh what a nissan feeling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Congrats on getting it started!!!!!!!!! On the charcoal canister. If you have it just put a hose on the vacumm port and see if you can blow into it. They may have still used the ones with the check valve in them on the non turbo ones too. I wouldn't suck on it though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Congrats Ryan, best feeling when you hear the engine first fire into life. Especially after a full car build! :dance: :dance: :dance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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