rb20 rolla Posted July 22, 2010 Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 have any of them asked you if they want the car running as up hear in sydney most i spoke to would not pass the car untill it was complete and running the way it was going to be engineered as they want to see the car the way it will look on the road and sound as they have to do a noise test and can't do one if the car is not running.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2010 have any of them asked you if they want the car running as up hear in sydney most i spoke to would not pass the car untill it was complete and running the way it was going to be engineered as they want to see the car the way it will look on the road and sound as they have to do a noise test and can't do one if the car is not running.. Yes mate they need it running before they can pass it here too , how ever i wanted to check that what i had done so far was up to scratch before doing more work and then making more mistakes that at the end of it all id end up with a lot of stuff needing fixed instead of geting it right the first time,make any sence? and we have alot of tests here that needs to be done before they will pass you , wellllllll interesting things today, not sure what to think but heres the story of todays events::: had an apointment with an engineer, to discus my car,drove for an hour to get there and arived 15 minutes early, went inside introduced my self and the guy told me the engineer i was there to see wasnt even there!!!! " he may be back soon """ thought to myself jesus h christ what is wrong with these people!!!! any way he never returned and i was left sitting there waiting untill another engineer came out to see what was going on, so we got to talking and he said he could look at my pics and discuss the car, out of that discussion i got good news and bad news, the bad is semi bad and the good is rather good first the bad, 3 main things , 1) the air box i made can not be used,apparantly it has to be a plastic box like a factory one out of a 180sx but he said i can use one out of any car as long as it has a paper type filter and its a plastic box 2) the engine mounts have to be done again,he didnt like the look of the welding 3) and this is the hardest one to fix,he wants some sort of chaasis rails welded to the floor to join the front chassis to the rear, something to do with the torque could possibley twist the chassis, don't think the sr20 would do that , he brought up the specs for the engine,160 kws at 6000 rpm, 202 hp, but none the less this is what he wants , the only way that i can get out of doing that is a torque test on the car, this requires me to set the car up on jack stands one in each corner with the car wieght down so it wont rock or tilt,then one of the stands at the rear has to be removed and 20 kgs added to that point,then i have to measure the amount that the chasis moves??? in thereoy sounds easy to do but in practice could be quite the tricky exercise, but i think i will attempt it and see what i can come up with otherwise will be in for some tricky work to the underneath! other things that will have to be tested include noise test,emissions test and braking test. now the good news:::: the engine is legal to fit to the corolla the drive shaft loop is ok the strenghting work is ok the gear box xmemeber is ok the engine position and clearances are ok diff and mounting are ok the intercooler mounting and front panel are ok the booster and master are ok the gear box hole is ok the clutch master is ok even the wheels maybe ok??? not sure on this one yet,got specs to look at seat mounts and new seats are ok strut brace and engine brace are ok front brake upgrade and coil overs and camber plates ok a few other things that can't think of right now too on the hole most of what i done seems to be ok just those 3 main things need sorted first be fore i can move on, but have sorted out alot in the way of what i can do next too ,and more importantly how they want them done,which was half the battle! fuel system, exhuast,battery in boot,seats,pipe work, electricals,brakes etc i now have a good idea of how things are to be done and how to attack them so things are slightly looking up,how ever not to get to excited yet..... alot hinges on this test and what sort of result i get in the way of movement,fingers crossed or could be in for at least amonths worth of stuffing around be fore can do any thing else,I'm hoping to pick up a dial gauge thingo tomorrow so can use to measure the change , who thinks the corrolla chassis will twist with the extra wieght in it??????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 well started to fix my engine mounts to day, found another xmember and started to hack it up ,ended up choping the old mounts off and making a new platform out of 3mm plate welded that on ,looks a bit better than what i had on the other xmember, ill finish the mounts next weekend hopfuly, also done the torque test the engineer told me to do,had to set the car up on jack stands, and remove one jack stand ,adding 20kgs at the point i removed the jack stand and measure the amount the chassis moved down, the result wasnt quite what i expected, thought maybe it would move say 3 or 4 mm you know nothing to huge,but the number on the dial indicator read 27 there abouts pretty sure it is 0.0027 since it didnt even move 1mm and 1 mm = 0.01 can any one confirm this??? this the first time ive used one of these things so not sure what the exact way to write down the reading.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LXY-642 Posted July 24, 2010 Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 I think that is reading 2.7mm. From what I can gather each 10 is 1mm. Gauge reads from 1-10mm from one full lot around so every little line is 0.01mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 (edited) I think that is reading 2.7mm. From what I can gather each 10 is 1mm. Gauge reads from 1-10mm from one full lot around so every little line is 0.01mm well i figured out that the little dial is mms 1=1 2=2 etc etc one full turn of the big needle will turn the little needle to one ,then another turn will take it to 2mm etc, just can't figure out how to write the measurement i got ??? confusing Edited July 24, 2010 by JDM55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LXY-642 Posted July 25, 2010 Report Share Posted July 25, 2010 Maybe just show the engineer the picture of the gauge you took? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Maybe just show the engineer the picture of the gauge you took? haha yeah i ended up doing that,i think in the end it read as 0.27 but he hasnt got back to me yet so don't know what the go is ,hope hes not another one of these ball breaker types...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 well pretty pissed off right now, i kinda thought that after talking to this new engineer and sorting everything out with him that things were going to be abit more straight forward and all the rediculous carry on was behind me, not to be however, :jamie: so the story goes, i heard back from him re my torque test result of 0.27 and aparently its impossible to get that result????????? even tho i had a picture to prove it he told me that no car could get that result ,it was far to strong, well i was told to do it again , so tonight i done the test again this time i had to hang the wieght out side of the car on a steel pole attached to the othe side re pic, this was a pain in the ass to set up trust me, this test gave me new numbers between 0.62 and 0.66 still way under 1 mm, so again have sent the info to the man and have to wait back till he tells me to do it again no doubt, its rediculous realy i did what he told me to ,to the letter, got a result, he wasnt happy about ,basicly he didnt believe me, and so now ive done it again , and still the result is very small not even one mm , that tells me the chassis is very strong and shouldnt need extra chassis rails put in , how ever its not up to me , and will be waiting to see what the out come is .............. so meanwhile redoing my mounts since they look dodgey ,aparently , so ive welded new platforms onto the xmember and made up 2 new mounts out of 3mm steel plate, heavy duty a bit thicker than the corolla mounts that are on there now, so these have to be strong enuf now shurely???????????? hoping to get these finished in the weekend,so i can move along to something else ,gettng very frustrated and just want to make some progress instead of repeating my self over and over and over again :blush: :bash: :bash: :bash: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDeano Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 ey mate just read through all 7 pages as i was interested to see how your going with it as i will be dropping a new engine in my ke55 and will have to go through the same rules and regulations as I'm in vic... Neways good to see your on the right track and seem to have found yourself a half decent engineer... I hope it all turns out ok and you don't have to sell up as u talked about on previous pages... Neways if ur dreams get shattered again would it be possible to setup the car for race use and run it on a club permit for race days as that would be better then selling up or do you need a engineers certificate for that aswell? Just wondering if youve looked into that possibility as i have always had that as a plan b when it comes to doing my car... Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 ey mate just read through all 7 pages as i was interested to see how your going with it as i will be dropping a new engine in my ke55 and will have to go through the same rules and regulations as I'm in vic... Neways good to see your on the right track and seem to have found yourself a half decent engineer... I hope it all turns out ok and you don't have to sell up as u talked about on previous pages... Neways if ur dreams get shattered again would it be possible to setup the car for race use and run it on a club permit for race days as that would be better then selling up or do you need a engineers certificate for that aswell? Just wondering if youve looked into that possibility as i have always had that as a plan b when it comes to doing my car... Thanks! hay there mate ,sure feel free to ask me anything ,no problems there,what sort of engine are you taking about? my totaly honest opinion on the whole thing, is don't do it,the head aches ive had so far and wasted money and wasted time have some what put a damper on the whole experience,ive been at it for just over 12 months ,that includes working after work hours and all week end long ,even taking the odd day off work to sqeease some more work in where i could ,now that being said , I'm doing a complete restoration and engine conversion ,pretty much rebuilding the entire car ,but if yourve got a good basis for a project ,ie nice tidy body bugger all rust,you don't intend to paint it or do much in the way of that sort of thing, then it would be alot easyier for you,as for the the club permit thing ,at the moment thats all so my plan b,but i want this as a daily , not a just drive once in a while car, I'm building it to drive,not sit in a shed, fingers crossed i wont get forced to take that path,but its been a bit of a struggle, my advice to you if you realy want to do it ,is be very prepared to be f%#$ked around,as they have recently just changed and tighten up on the engine coversion laws here in vic,, basicly they don't want to know about them ,get a copy of the vass list and ring as many as you can and tell them what youve preposed to do,before you start!!! try and find some one who will listen to what you have to say and seems interested in helping ,(this is the hard part as ive found out)there are several people on the list that don't even want to know about modded cars,also there are several that only do hv (heavy vehicles,trucks and the like,) so yeah try find some one that will take you seriously and isnt biasis to what your doing, youll find that engineers in general are C@#$ ,they all have there funny opions on certain things,once you found one that seems interested i sugest making an apointment with them and have a consultation,while your there sus them out,by that i mean figure out if there dick heads or generaly decent and are going to help,make sure when you go in there for that consultation you are fully armed with knoledge of what your going to do cause they will as you alot of questions and you need to know what they mean ,have a list of all intended mods and going in to great detail with each one on how you entend to carry them out ,what materials youll use for doing the mods ,etc this is where you need to pay attention, or youll end up doing things over and over, so do your home work before you go in, know eactly what you are going to do and how your going to do it, find a decent engineer that will actualy listen ,if possible drive the car to them,some will come out but you will have to pay for it, good luck with it any thing else just ask hope that points you in the general direction.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDeano Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 (edited) thanks for the advice, i plan on dropping a Mazda 13B into it non turbo just running a carby setup (nothing to crazy just a good street car)... Still have alot of research to do like if that engine is allowed in the car etc but if it is allowed I'm pretty dead set on doing it as i love the old rollas and combine that with my love for rotary's and wen its compelte would pretty much be my dream car... So yeh if its possible I'm pretty dead set on doing it no matter how much, how long or how hard its gonna be! Good Luck! Edited July 28, 2010 by DDeano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 thanks for the advice, i plan on dropping a Mazda 13B into it non turbo just running a carby setup (nothing to crazy just a good street car)... Still have alot of research to do like if that engine is allowed in the car etc but if it is allowed I'm pretty dead set on doing it as i love the old rollas and combine that with my love for rotary's and wen its compelte would pretty much be my dream car... So yeh if its possible I'm pretty dead set on doing it no matter how much, how long or how hard its gonna be! Good Luck! haha yeah man i get ya, i was gona do the same thing,but ended up with the sr20, sorry to burst your bubble but i think the 13b isnt allowed,pretty sure its only 12a,but have a search on here and talk to kangaroosa hes got a 12a in a corolla ,if you ask nicely I'm sure he will give you some good advice as hes been thru the whole process,heres a link to his thread on his car,mite gett a bit more info on there ,but definatley ask him about it ,I'm sure theres a few others on here with rotors,but hes the only one i know in vic thats done it http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=36663 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DDeano Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 haha yeah man i get ya, i was gona do the same thing,but ended up with the sr20, sorry to burst your bubble but i think the 13b isnt allowed,pretty sure its only 12a,but have a search on here and talk to kangaroosa hes got a 12a in a corolla ,if you ask nicely I'm sure he will give you some good advice as hes been thru the whole process,heres a link to his thread on his car,mite gett a bit more info on there ,but definatley ask him about it ,I'm sure theres a few others on here with rotors,but hes the only one i know in vic thats done it http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=36663 yeah ive seen his thread its a great build, ive been told ke30's can only have 12a but apparently ke55's can have the 13b as they have a tare weight of 900 compared to the 800 that ke30's have... Neways this is only what ive been told i have to look into it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 yeah ive seen his thread its a great build, ive been told ke30's can only have 12a but apparently ke55's can have the 13b as they have a tare weight of 900 compared to the 800 that ke30's have... Neways this is only what ive been told i have to look into it! ahhhh nice could be good news then ,go the 55 ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDM55 Posted July 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 (edited) so today i managed to get my engine mounts redone,after looking at my old mounts i kinda realised that they were ruff as guts hahaha ,took allday to redo these things ,had to keep the engine in the same position it was in as it was exactly where it needed to be, got another xmember,chopped off the old mounts and the base they were sitting on, welded a 3mm plate over the old base area, made up some engine mounts out of 3mm plate,bit better than the old corolla mounts that i used before, then had to figure out the angles needed for the mounts,then cut the mounts to suit, tack welded them on, pulled out the xmember and welded them properly with a few extra seam welds here and there, sanding the xmember and painted it , reassembled ,job done ;-) old mounts off steel plate on designin mounts cut out bend to shape angles cut and tacked in welding welding fresh back in wola Edited July 31, 2010 by JDM55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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