rollaspec Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 (edited) Hey all, i know that 4:2:1 extractors are for torque and low/mid range rpm driving (daily driving) and that 4:1 are for high rpm driving (track), just wondering what people are running on there k series corollas. I have a 4k KE70 that is about to run a 3k bigport head, and I'm weighing up these two types of extractors that i can buy. Thanks :( Ps. I'm a daily driver :P Edited October 8, 2009 by rollaspec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anastasios Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 what kind of cam are you running? if stock id say go for the 4-2-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felix Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 (edited) I think you'll find it mainly depends on cost and availability to what people fit For a given cam, 4-1's will push the powerband further up the rev range than 4-2-1's. I run 4-1 pacemakers, due to the fact they came up at the right price at the right time and fit the car. Makes the 270 degree (advertised) cam in the motor, perform like a larger 280-285 degree cam would in a similar motor with 4-2-1's. I'd be putting in a reground cam with your head change and extractors to get the best from it. The stock cams severely limit performance. Edited October 8, 2009 by Felix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 I ran a 4K-H (3k head) with a stock cam and 4 into 1's. Could definatly feel it lacked a little in the bottom end but once the revs climed the motor really opened up and went (for what it was) 4-2-1 (tri-y) for daily duties 4-1 for high rpm spirited driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEI069 Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 4-1 s will make more power and if you do any other mods down the track you wont have to upgrade again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Sorry for the hijack rollaspec, I'll put up a separate post later, but someone might move some extractors around the club by reading this. I received a set of 4-into-1 with the SUs I bought, which I'd like to swap for a set of 4-2-1 as I'm building a sub-5000rpm motor for the daughter as a daily run-around. I think the 4-2-1 will suit the 1&1/4 inch SUs I'm using and the 4-1 will suit the 1&1/2 SUs most guys use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollaspec Posted October 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 (edited) I think you'll find it mainly depends on cost and availability to what people fit For a given cam, 4-1's will push the powerband further up the rev range than 4-2-1's. I run 4-1 pacemakers, due to the fact they came up at the right price at the right time and fit the car. Makes the 270 degree (advertised) cam in the motor, perform like a larger 280-285 degree cam would in a similar motor with 4-2-1's. I'd be putting in a reground cam with your head change and extractors to get the best from it. The stock cams severely limit performance. A reground stock cam? How much do you think i'd be charged (approx) to get this done, or should i got for an all new cam instead (and what type?). I'm learning but i'm new to this, i doubt i'll be doing any more mods to the engine so i think 4:2:1 is the go as it's only a daily with no intentions of future 4k mods. Edited October 9, 2009 by rollaspec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Pretty much all performance cams are re-ground stock ones. Don't even consider getting a brand new one if its just a budget/daily built as it'll be heaps (say through toyota) more than a re-grind, which should only cost you $150-$200. If you don't want to have your car off the road for a week or two while the cam gets done then buy a second hand stock cam here (around $20), send it off and get it done, then swap it with yours in one weekend. BE AWARE that your lifters will need refacing as well. Don't disregard doing this or you could rip a lobe off the new cam. Have a look on the Tighe and Camtech websites for cam specs. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollaspec Posted October 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Great thanks aalot for your help guys, 1 last question.. will regrounding the cam (and refacing the lifters) give my engine a lumpy sound (when i get 2" exhaust system)??? I don't want this, and is the cam reground really worth doing?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 (edited) Keep your idle up at 1000-1200 revs and don't lighten your flywheel if you don't want to get the cam-lope. your other question should be: Is it really worth getting extractors without getting a cam grind. My answer would be not really. Edited October 9, 2009 by philbey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollaspec Posted October 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 Thanks man, i understand now i think :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 They tie in together- carbs, cam & extractors, so doing all three makes sense. Tighe have several cams that will improve daily driving without giving a lumpy idle, I'm going to get the 104 or 113 from here- http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm but even the 112 will be an improvement over stock. Then I reckon cam followers machined, twin SU carbs, extractors, and I'll drop the sump to shim the oil pump and just check the bearings. I don't want to strip the block or lift the head, just poke out another 10KW or 15KW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anastasios Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 well the sump has to come off anyway to get the cam out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted October 9, 2009 Report Share Posted October 9, 2009 not if you replace the studs in your timing cover with bolts :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 there are ways and means of doing everything that isn't supposed to be done.... until you drop a valve hey keith? If you get a cam reground and don't go too crazy it won't sound lopey. I've heard a lot of cams that sound pretty close on stock. I have a rather lopey one in the ke55 (lots of overlap) which makes tuning kinda fiddley. I'm dying of curiosity as to how my new flywheel will go considering the camshaft.... I weight it at approx 2.5kg less than stock this afternoon ;) Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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