Evan G Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) i tried paint 2 pak on the previous paint (2 pak aswell) and it didnt bubble or slide off, so do i need to use primer? i planing to roughen up the old paint, then spray the new paint straight on top? is this a good option will it flake off in a couple of week? whats the best methord? UPDATE doors have been painted with 2 coats of paint, there seams to be some imperfections (dust stuck to the paint) also orange peal,so I'm sanding the doors back abit with 800 grit wet rub to get rid of the dust, all the orange peel is now gone aswell, i applied a tad of cut/polish to the sanded paint and it came out SMICK. down to my question. when my final coat is applied can i rub it back with 1200 wet rub then cut a polish it? or just leave the final coat and don't rub it back? Edited November 3, 2009 by Evan G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiahn Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 haha well at least you know about the fact that it will destroy your lungs:P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Respirator will stop dust and particles etc, not fumes and isocyante vapours. I really wouldn't trust my cancer free life with a respirator. You got to a paint shop and they're running masks with clean air supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 You must use a full body suit as it is absorbed through the skin too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason KE30 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Rub down the old paint with a maximum grit of 240. 320 grit would be ideal though. If you can get your hands on some 2pak primer it would be best and ensure that you have a good, even finish. Before you put primer on it though, be sure to wax & grease thoroughly. Best way to do so is to have two rags, one soaked and one dry. Go over the area you are going to paint with the soaked rag then wipe off with the dry rag. Leave the primer for at least 24 hours before sanding. You can choose whether to put guide coat on or not. Sand the primer down with 320. When you are ready to paint, blow down the car, and wax & grease the same way as before. But once you have done that, get a tac rag for the micro dust that you have left behind, but only GLIDE over the primer, don't put too much weight on it. After all that it'll be ready for colour. Hope this helps. P.s. Respirators are for pussies :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 (edited) I'm using like a full gas filter respirator with the external filters , gloves are on when mixing the paint, long sleeve and covered shoes can't even smell the paint! Edited October 24, 2009 by Evan G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Rub down the old paint with a maximum grit of 240. 320 grit would be ideal though. If you can get your hands on some 2pak primer it would be best and ensure that you have a good, even finish. Before you put primer on it though, be sure to wax & grease thoroughly. Best way to do so is to have two rags, one soaked and one dry. Go over the area you are going to paint with the soaked rag then wipe off with the dry rag. Leave the primer for at least 24 hours before sanding. You can choose whether to put guide coat on or not. Sand the primer down with 320. When you are ready to paint, blow down the car, and wax & grease the same way as before. But once you have done that, get a tac rag for the micro dust that you have left behind, but only GLIDE over the primer, don't put too much weight on it. After all that it'll be ready for colour. Hope this helps. P.s. Respirators are for pussies :S legend this helps alot, still have a couple me questions 1. do i need 2pak primer or can i use ordaniary spray can etch primer? 2. i don't wax/grease remover but I'm using brake cleaner/tinners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason KE30 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 The spray can etch primer won't do a sufficient job i'm afraid, especially if it's acrylic. Sometimes you can get away with it but not often. Secondly, wax & grease remover is extremely cheap so I would highly recommend using it. I don't know who told you to use brake cleaner or thinners but I don't think they really know what they are talking about i'm afraid lol. Pretty sure brake cleaner has silicone in it too so that's just stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 no no i had no wax and grease remover so i used brake cleaner LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murd 55 Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 you can paint straight over 2pac as long as rubbed sufficiently, if painting metalics rub with 800wet if painting solids 400 on a sander will be sufficient. the only reason i can see needing to use 2 pac primer over 2pac is over repairs and whatnot as at work we use 2 pac and just prime repairs. if blending panels on metalics we rub with 1500wet then use scuff it or a 100disc by hand just to ensure you havent left scratches from rubbing incorrectly, should always use palm not fingertips as fingertips will scratch it up badly and colours with metalics will show it right up! at work the painters have respirators with filters on them and a parachute like material pants and jacket 1 to stop them gettin shit and the paint and i gues to stop the paint gettin into their skin but when priming we do it out in the open and i don't have a respirator so hello to an early death for me! etch primer alot like 1k primer, which is acrylic can be painted over with 2pac but isn't recommended we use it a bit in a can at work mostly to prime over small rub throughs in repairs but rub it back before painting over it also. we use wax and grease remover, sometimes metho, metho more for on new plastic parts as prepsol (wax and grease remover) is too harsh on the unpainted plastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 you can paint straight over 2pac as long as rubbed sufficiently, if painting metalics rub with 800wet if painting solids 400 on a sander will be sufficient. the only reason i can see needing to use 2 pac primer over 2pac is over repairs and whatnot as at work we use 2 pac and just prime repairs. if blending panels on metalics we rub with 1500wet then use scuff it or a 100disc by hand just to ensure you havent left scratches from rubbing incorrectly, should always use palm not fingertips as fingertips will scratch it up badly and colours with metalics will show it right up! at work the painters have respirators with filters on them and a parachute like material pants and jacket 1 to stop them gettin shit and the paint and i gues to stop the paint gettin into their skin but when priming we do it out in the open and i don't have a respirator so hello to an early death for me! etch primer alot like 1k primer, which is acrylic can be painted over with 2pac but isn't recommended we use it a bit in a can at work mostly to prime over small rub throughs in repairs but rub it back before painting over it also. we use wax and grease remover, sometimes metho, metho more for on new plastic parts as prepsol (wax and grease remover) is too harsh on the unpainted plastic! thanks for the info mate, i painted the door jams with no primer etc etc, it didnt bubble or seperate from the old paint, so roughen up the old paint with 320 wet rub and clean with wax/grease remover and apply new paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeLJ Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Primer fumes wont kill you. carcenogenic fumes start when you are mixing hardeners and reducers into the 2 pack paints. ohh and I paint 2 pack in the backyard with just a respirator...... the suit is usually to stop you getting overspray all over yourself, if you havent noticed, they arent usually air tight, so its not to stop your skin absorbing it... The clean air supply thing is simply choice, quality respirators with the correct filters will be fine. 2 pack over 2 pack will be fine, its only when you are painting over acrylic that it will burn or react in certain places. I always prefer to primer before I paint though (Hi fill if possible) gives you a chance to add a solid and smooth base for the paint to go over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medicine_Man Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 You are quite wrong, The suits are designed to stop the paint contacting your skin as it contains the isocyanates. Sure they breathe but the overspray will settle on the suit and not your skin. direct quotes; "Isocyanates used in paint systems can cause health effects via skin contact or when breathed in during paint mixing and spraying." http://www.deir.qld.gov.au/workplace/subje...ances/index.htm "Disposable paint overalls are cheap and will cover the whole body apart from the face. Disposable gloves should also be worn. Together these protect the skin from paint." http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-safety.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted October 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 (edited) now another question about 2 pak paint (not the health effects!!!!!!) i have sprayed the doors with 2 coats of paint, since I'm not using a booth or anyhting, there has been a small amount of dust on the paited surface. can it be rubbed back before the next quote goes on? Edited October 27, 2009 by Evan G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Respirator filters will need to contain charcoal for fumes and filter padding for particles. We used to use half-masks with dual filters painting enamel undercoat in enclosed rooms after stripping asbestos. If the particles block it up you can't breathe in very well, & if the charcoal gets completely "used up" you suddenly smell turps. I've heard of spray painters who have been sensitised to isocyanates by breathing the fumes and now can't be anywhere near them. Also poisons the alveoli, leading to emphysema. Still, after 20years of asbestos exposure, who am I to tell people how to look after their lungs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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