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-- 68Krolla Re-Build --


68krolla

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  • 1 month later...
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The wheels i have are cragar smoothies 15x6 for the front and 15x7 for the rear so i had to pump, roll and flare the guards to make way. So where the wheel sits now is where the it should b positioned e when the diff goes on! i should be getting it back maybe this week. I'm really happy witht the wheels the give the car the oldschool dub look! I will update as soon as the diff is in!

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Edited by 68krolla
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  • 1 month later...

First of all Merry Christmas to everyone and a Happy New Year,

 

Here is my R31 Borg-Warner Differential, I had it shortened to the exact same width as the standard one. I went all out and had some new axles installed instead of wasting my time shortening the standard ones. The axles i currently have come with a much longer splined section that you cut down to size. i have a Pintara centre at the moment until i get it licensed then i will install a mini spool. All the brake lines are braided as you can and i just replaced all the seals in the calipers. So now the next step is to sort the suspension. I wanna get an extra leaf in the pack but without resetting it to have that little extra sag for ride height and I'm going Pedders shocks for the rear (same as the front).

 

Also could any body tell me what they did for the brackets that the U-bolts go through to hold the springs to the Diff. I don't know whether the standard ones will be sufficient because once i have re-drilled for the bolts there will be little metal left on the bracket. So do you custom made them or is there another bracket i can use??

 

Any help appreciated.

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Edited by 68krolla
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, for those of you who were planning on purchasing the hopper stoppers kit or already have the kit for your ke10, you may have found out that the rotor will rub on the the lower control arm. The only solution that i have heard about is to have a 3-mm spacer made up to fit over the stub axle pushing out the hub. There was i few small issues that turned me off this idea. The first being that 3-mm is not enough clearance for me personally, the second is that you would have to machine down the spacer between the caliper and mounting plate to have it central and the bearings may not mount on the stub-axle properly if you were to push out the hub any more than 3-mm. So i decided that i could have a spacer laser cut to relocate the position of the strut. So basically the Spacer is bolted on to the steering control arm and then the strut is bolted onto the spacer. This is only a trial at the moment because i need to see if my engineer will approve of it. So i will let you know how that goes shortly. Also i wasn't happy with re-drilling the suspension components that bolt the spring pack to the diff so i thought i would have them laser cut at the same time. It is unbelievably cheap to have this stuff cut. It cost me $60 for the lot. After i have everything bent up will post them on. Now for the pictures-

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Edited by 68krolla
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Hmmmmmmm :hmm: good to see ur trying something different and it looks great :happy: i wanted to change the front end on my ke15 i want diff struts etc etc i was told to use a ke20 cross member then make ur own lower arms and then u have ball joints that wont fall out and u can put in some decent struts !!!! Just a thought :cool:

 

see ya

 

jimi

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With my ke10 I plan on running a ke20 cross member, Custom LCA's, Ae86 balljoints with an ae86 rack and pinion. It will have custom 'tubes' .. not sure what they are called but they thread onto the ballpoint and have a clamp over them and also this allows me to run ae86 coil overs if I wish ( although I will probably end up doing the same thing you have with ottomotto coil overs ) Is your diff a R31 housing, Pintara gearset with custom axles? If you don't mind can you PM me the details where you got the diff shortened as I need to get some axles made up. I've got an R31 housing, Pintara gearset and a P76 LSD with the disc brakes aswell. Just need to shorten it. :cool:

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  • 1 month later...

I have been following a few of the other rollaclub boys and we all seem to be to aiming for the same thing when it comes to the forbidden ke10 front end. A more reliable and responsive setup. So this is what i have been upto lately. I have a ke70 rack and pinion that have been playing around with but I'm going to hopefully stick with the Ke10 cross member. I have discussed with my engineer the plans to convert the crossmember to a common LCA setup and he didn't have any objections as such, but I'm only in the prototype stages at the moment. I'm going to use ke70 LCAs with the adaptor I had laser cut, and ke20 struts which i also just purchased. I had to use these struts so my hopper stoppers kit would still fit. My plan is to make my own steering knuckles to make sure the Ackerman angle is correct while eliminating as much bump steer as possible. I am also using ke20 radius arms on the car so i will have to make a bracket to bolt to the chassis for it. Now I'm deciding on what sway bar will work to see if i need to incorporate it into the brackets!!

 

The ke70 steering column doesn't loom like to much work to put in and it looks like the pinion will come out at a good angle towards the rack. I still have to cut a small section out of the fire wall for it though.

 

Also the differential is on with no problems and the pictures are how it sits.

 

I hope you can all see where I am going and any questions or comments are going to very helpful.

 

Declan.

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