so ur running stock brakes with a pajero MC? how much travel do you have before they grab?

 

is it real easy to lock up the rear tyres?

Fillin in a bit for Luc.

 

 

Mx62 front brakes with slotted RDA rotors and QFM pads.

 

Stock KE55 Rear Drums.

as above but bendix ultimate pads acutually.

 

it pulls up really really well actually.

if you don't wear your seat belt your likely to put your head through the windscreen. pedal doesn't throw much at all you just have to adjust your pushrod a bit on the booster.

 

as for locking up... the fronts lock first.. but these coupled with engine breaking you won't need to come anywhere near locking em up.

 

oh and most of this information on what i'm running has been mentioned in this thread already.. i think perhaps twice so this would make 3 times.

Edited July 10, 201016 yr by greenmac80

so since me and the missus both own rollas... i decided to do this.

kinda got sick of people parking in the driveway and blocking one of us in.

 

 

also installed the baby seat today! looks good nice and neat and you can't even see the clip its all hidden.

nice and secure too.

 

thats all folks for this car.!

Can still park mine there when its done :(

this looks killer for a daily... SERIOUSLY

wish this was my daily

i look forward to getting out on the road (9 months to go) and seening some decent builds :(

ive come to the conclusion after reading your thread that mine is going to be sooooo sub standard but hey at least ill be rollin :D

keep up the good work

Edited July 11, 201016 yr by lumina78ke55

haha man cheers,!!

 

so work is still continueing on this bitch.

i've made up tower plates and have purchased steel tube + bronze teflon lined rosejoints, half nuts, and threaded inserts in LH and RH.

once the jints and stuff arrive i'll have a strut brace!! yee hah!

on the list to do is

1. make a custom dash to suit my guages. will be trimmed in quiliting to tie in with the rest of the interior.

2.change the alternator to an internally regulated one as mine is external and its getting noisy.

3. once i've found bearing part numbers i will give my diff a complete overhaul cos that also is getting noisy.

 

then concentrate on the 4e conversion. get my mounts made and g/box adaptor plate made up. measure up the tailshaft and get that done.

 

i'm aiming to get the covnersion done over x mas. i'm gonna give myself 3 weeks to do it. should be enough. preparation is the key.

 

cheers, luc

haha man cheers,!!

 

so work is still continueing on this bitch.

i've made up tower plates and have purchased steel tube + bronze teflon lined rosejoints, half nuts, and threaded inserts in LH and RH.

once the jints and stuff arrive i'll have a strut brace!! yee hah!

on the list to do is

1. make a custom dash to suit my guages. will be trimmed in quiliting to tie in with the rest of the interior.

2.change the alternator to an internally regulated one as mine is external and its getting noisy.

3. once i've found bearing part numbers i will give my diff a complete overhaul cos that also is getting noisy.

 

then concentrate on the 4e conversion. get my mounts made and g/box adaptor plate made up. measure up the tailshaft and get that done.

 

i'm aiming to get the covnersion done over x mas. i'm gonna give myself 3 weeks to do it. should be enough. preparation is the key.

 

cheers, luc

 

whats the diff ratio's? IMO i reckon your better off swapping the diff over

i'm not sure what it is.

4.11 i think well it was out of a manual wagon.

 

let me ask you this... if you have a shagged shocker. do you just swap it for another secondhand one?

think the same about bushes... brake pads... MC.... brake lines... etc. etc..

sure i could buy and swap a reasonable one in.. but then within a short time i could be back to square one. so whats the point?

if something is buggered fix it with new or reco. you're only going to save yourself money in the long run.

 

^^ that atitude is also part of the reason why when you get one of these old girls most things are shagged and your left to pick up the pieces.

i'm not sure what it is.

4.11 i think well it was out of a manual wagon.

 

let me ask you this... if you have a shagged shocker. do you just swap it for another secondhand one?

think the same about bushes... brake pads... MC.... brake lines... etc. etc..

sure i could buy and swap a reasonable one in.. but then within a short time i could be back to square one. so whats the point?

if something is buggered fix it with new or reco. you're only going to save yourself money in the long run.

 

^^ that atitude is also part of the reason why when you get one of these old girls most things are shagged and your left to pick up the pieces.

 

thats true^ i still have my work mind switched on

 

$4000 rebuild diff

$3000 2nd hand and fitted

lol for me its gonna cost the parts at trade prices and that it.

3. once i've found bearing part numbers i will give my diff a complete overhaul cos that also is getting noisy.

 

Luc are you after toyota part numbers or just a general part number?

 

because if its toyota part number then >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Clicky Click :P

Edited July 14, 201016 yr by MYSTIK

general part number i would think. would be cheaper i assume to get the bearings from cbc or something.

just went for a smash through the hills and f#$k me! in the wet this thing grips like all hell.

even when traction went its super easy to get back. the car just want to grip.

 

the only thing is that its a bit understeery. not sure how to improve on this so i'll have to chat to my friendly local suspension man.

here's some trivia for you then all the bearings in the ke3*/5* diffs are the same as ke7* items according to toyodiy :P

 

Edit: which now that i think about it doesnt really surprise all that much

Edited July 14, 201016 yr by MYSTIK