shauns ke30 Posted December 28, 2009 Report Posted December 28, 2009 Don't spend heaps of money, it's just a crappy old K motor. Balance everything if you can afford it. Use a 20-60 cam in a 3K, 25-65 in a 4K, 4K is better. Run 0.400" valvelift, fit heavy duty springs if you don't want the stock ones to wear out in a couple of years, use 4K valve gear. Shim the oil pump spring 3mm for more oil pressure. Run between stock and 10:1 compression. Get the distributor recurved. Fit extractors and an exhaust larger than 1.5" but not larger than 2". Fit a new timing chain and tensioner. Put something better than the stock carby on, but not too big. Don't rev it past 8 grand. ok found this and was just was thinking can you still buy new oil pumps for the 5k's?????? i wanna do an oil change and new sump gasget and oil pump also what to shim the oil pump while I'm at it umm up top it say's 3mm!!!!!!! what are the effects of this and can you shim them more or it that a bad i dear cheers shaun Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted December 28, 2009 Report Posted December 28, 2009 Hi, In my KE15 I have a rebuilt 5K and I shimmed hte oil pump. I put a shim in 1.99mm thick. At idle I run about 25PSI with cold oil. Soon as I hit 3000RPM I'm at 80PSI with cold oil. At this point the bypass opens so a pretty much 2mm shim ona good rebuilt motor expect 80PSI. When oil warms drops to like 70/65PSI. Cheers Cameron P.S. Using 20W-60 oil. Quote
SausageFingers Posted December 28, 2009 Report Posted December 28, 2009 You should probably just stick with 3mm. Best thing to do is see how much you're running on an actual measured increment gauge (aftermarket). I'm not quite certain of the risk of too much oil pressure, but keep in mind the filter is probably the weak link with the oil circuit, so it will need to be able to survive the higher pressure. Quote
maxyboy55 Posted December 28, 2009 Report Posted December 28, 2009 i put one (maybe 2) washers in my relief valve around probably 2 or 3 mm in total thickness oil filter wise i have a z418 seems to work :dance: hope this helps Quote
shauns ke30 Posted December 28, 2009 Author Report Posted December 28, 2009 (edited) ok well at the moment on start up 850RPM'S it sits on 60psi to 63psi and when reving 3000RPM'S sits on 70psi to 75psi and when warm around 40psi ive never seen it go under 40 psi tho :dance: also runing 20w 50 and my oil gauge is taped in where the oil filter is (is this correct :y: ) can you still buy new oil pumps or will my old one be fine?????? Edited December 28, 2009 by shauns ke30 Quote
shauns ke30 Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Posted January 10, 2010 or has my oil pump already been shimed???? also got a ford z9 oil finter today and 15w-40 oil will the 15w-40 be ok i read the book on what oil i shoud use for the 5k and it said me15w-40 or hp20w-50 cheers shaun Quote
kiahn Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 15w40 for a rebuilt 5k shud be fine, 20w50 is really only for when your rings and seals start to get a little tired, or in the case of my boat, penrite70 for when your motor is completely shagged i would say your pump is either in brand new condition or its been shimmed Quote
shauns ke30 Posted January 10, 2010 Author Report Posted January 10, 2010 well the 5k has not done over 100,000ks yet i bort it in a ke38 wagon of an old dude he had the 5k put in coz the 3k wasent cutting it. the 5k was on 70,000ks when the old man put it in the wagon! he owned it for two years with the 5k so what ever he did in two years :y: ??,??? + that to 70,000ks = 75,000ks to 90,000ks and he didnt drive it much so the 5k is still sorta a fresh motor :jamie: well when i pull the oil pump out ill look for a shim i have never done this befor so i need some help on what to do about the shim??? i no abit i did my 5k conversion myself and i always play around with my rolla just don't wanna do somethink wrong coz you no what that means 0 oil PSI lol will fark my 5k and to much oil PSI will BLOW the cups around the sparkies i think cheers shaun Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 i used a 2mm shim, stuff knows what pressure its pushing out but its been running fine for 2 months :jamie: Quote
shauns ke30 Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Posted January 11, 2010 yeah 2mm shim :jamie: ok just one more question the more shims i put in the more oil PSI!!!!!!! or is it the over way around??? Quote
toymotar Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 A few months back i tryed to find new oil pump for 4k(i assume they the same as 5k) rang heaps of places and hours of net surfing with no success,i guess they never failed so nobody stocked them.hope you have better luck. Quote
philbey Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 More shims equals more oil pressure. You're simply preloading the spring that is 1/2 of the pressure relief valve. More shim=more preload=more cracking pressure. Quote
shauns ke30 Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Posted January 11, 2010 thanks philbey :y: i found this but its for a ford but i think its the same sort thing http://wahiduddin.net/race/shim.htm does anyone no what the effectes off to much oil PSI eg. (BLOWING THE SPARK PLUG CAPS AND THE OIL FILTER) ALSO: whats the most PSI i can run also running a z9 oil fillter if this makes a diffrence :jamie: 3mm shim?? 4mm shim?? Quote
philbey Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 I ran about 2.5mm, just had a washer that was that size. I still need to plug in my oil pressure gauge but apart from that I reckon i'm doing alright. If I get a bit low on oil, there's a particular off camber, steep entry hard right bend where occasionally I'll see the oil pressure light flash on, so I would suggest a baffled sump if you're driving hard. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 Ok, you have all of the info here you need to do it........ but do you really need to if you've never seen it any lower than 40psi!!!??? Is the for a worked motor or is it just stock!? Its not like more all pressure give you more performance. Quote
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