maxyboy55

looks a bit like oil deposits, do they have valve stem oil seals? how tight are the valves in the guides? the lack of an air pump shouldn't effect it too much but generally it looks like it might have been burning a bit of oil max

ahh the good old steam engine, i love them! maximum torque from zero revs, yes better than any old internal comustion engine it has been done before in the uk, with a v twin in a mini that made a whopping 40hp with 1500psi of dry steam thats the way to go but if you don't have the skills, don't bother because steam is dangerous estimated cost list: $ashitload

i know what you mean... the wreckers dog lived in mine for 6 months, and i got it complete with all those lovely dog things; rat, bone, hair, fleas... and wet dog smell :dance:

that must meen you have a dodgey 3k :( probably someone cut off the engine no. and glued it onto the 4k to get the 4k in there sneakily maybe check for signs of tampeing around the engine no.?

love the ke50 :) (hint: looks good in nissan pulsar blue) I've got a ke55p (same model, different name + 4k) stock fm radio and tape player ftw oh yes, one other thing; rust is a shitter, i had it in both my front guards in the bottom section closest to the door, as well as above both my tail lights, in the plenum chamber on the passengers side and we had to make a whole new section (from front to back) on the bottom of the l/h door

I picked mine up for trade price-$175 :) although they are not tuned length, they are more or less a replacement for the cast manifold, but a good replacement

my 4k had a static compression ratio of 8.5:1 (from stock) (measured) i shaved it 40 thou (1mm) and ended up with a static compression ratio of 10.7:1 i would say to measure the volume with a pipet and piece of perspex and calculate it from there, shave it 20 thou or 30 thou and see what you get

yes, but as i've said, ive removed all the electronics and converted it to a simple mechanical thermostat

nah its all good now, dad is liscenced so he has bits and pieces, so we got rid of the electrics and put a mechanical thermostat in

lpg is a cheap alternative but it has a strange habit of going "boom" :blinks: it's always a good idea to replace all the o-rings and use the proper sealing stuff for r134a all you need that is different is the receiver dryer (and the gas of course)

you do know installing a/c without a license is illegal?

crimp the metal bit in the lead so it fits/clips snuggley onto the spark plug thats all it is save yourself spending money on a new set max

help anyone? :dance:

that would be great if you could get a wiring diagram max

we have connected the large plug to the amplifier and the plug with one blue wire with a white trace to the corresponding plug and i need to know what the: plug with one yellow wire with blue trace and one yellow wire with green trace goes to plug with two blue wires with white trace and two yellow wires with green trace goes to and the plug with one yellow wire with green trace and one white wire with blue trace goes to thanks, max

I'm in the midst of putting air conditioning from a ke70 into my ke55 (liftback) the problem is that we have a few plugs coming out of the evaporator (cooling unit) and we can't work out what the are for i found an old book that had the ke70 a/c wiring diagram but it is slightly different to my car if anyone has a wiring diagram for ke55 a/c or can help me it is much appreciated thanks, max

when you take your sump off make sure that the sealing surface is completely flat, mine wasn't and i bet alot of other peoples aren't to. that's one reason why when you replace them they leak again. max

i just bought the silver mesh that supercheap sells, $30 if i remember. that did my grill, filter, windscreen vents and i still have more left over max

i used a piece of butchers paper to get the rough shape so it would fit good and then cut it out of that shape it sits in the little gap between the chrome and larger part of the grill. I had to push it in there so that it clipped in and now it won't budge, i put a zip tie strategically placed in a modern toyota badge in the middle. and some photos of the filters bling :P max

it's just some of that mesh you buy at supercheap, i used it for my grill aswell. all i did was cut the airbox apart to get the mesh on there, cut a piece to wrap around it and foled the cut tangs over the filter and joined it to itself by interweaving the tangs for an update: me and dad have been down to the panelbeaters and are starting to get the front half rust free, prepped and painted. hopefully (and i know i have said this a bit) it we be on the road by may. and i have some new (old) centrelines for it :P i will get some more piccys up in the following weeks. max

usually when you need to 'CLEAN' a factory air filter (whether it be for the engine or cabin), it's time to REPLACE it :P max

i put one (maybe 2) washers in my relief valve around probably 2 or 3 mm in total thickness oil filter wise i have a z418 seems to work :dance: hope this helps

I am doing a similar setup for my car, i made a squarish funnel out of sheet aluminum, more or less to decrease the vacuum then to get psi, (which is kind of forced induction) and i am placing it behind my grill for some good reading about all this and to see that ram air inductions (i.e. that putting a funel out the front of your car) work to get rid of vacuum, (although you may not have manifold vacuum at all times for brake booster vac advance etc. etc.) http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110360/article.html (cai) http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110824/article.html ( ram air ) http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0663/article.html (negative boost) max

edit: the z68's are a completely different design inside to the z418, they both have the same surface area

Oh yeah, with having to look out the back, the spoiler and splitting piece for the boot would make it a bitch to see behind you :y: