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Rust Repairs

Featured Replies

this has probably been answered but what ways are good to fix rust an what are the necessary tools and materials ? also some helpful tips and problems that may occur

 

cheers, sam

hire mungimods :S

Tools;

Wire brush (drill or grinder powered)

Grinder (1mm cutting disc and flap disc)

Welder (Preferably Gas Mig, gasless will do ok tho)

Clean, rust free sheet metal (old panels are a good source of the right thickness)

Rust converter (for all the small bits you may have missed)

Primer (I STRONGLY recommend something like DyMark Zinc Gal. with a 93% zinc content its pretty rust resistant)

Good quality body filler and associated sanding equipment

 

Wire brush the rust affected area, usually reveals more rust than you could actually see before (good)

 

Cut out the affected area, make sure the section you cut out is bigger than the affected aread (5-10mm all round if possible) and try to keep the cut out in one piece.

 

Going thru the hole, try to coat as much of the inside of the panel you may thing has the begingings of rust with rust converter. then do the same with the Zinc rich primer.

 

Using the cut out section, cut out a section of clean metal from what you decide to use (not from your car :S) Keep it as close to the shape/size as the cut out section as you can. Remember to add the thickness of the disc to the new section to get it close to the sixe of the hole in the car.

 

Place the new section in the hole in the car and tac weld it in 1 place to hold it. adjust so that the section fits right (try not to let it sit too far out or you'll never get it looking good)

 

once you have it sitting right, using small tac welds, weld opposite sides (like doing up a wheel) going 1 small tac by 1 small tac (to keep the heat and associtated warpage to a bare minimum (it doesnt need to be completely welded around)

 

Use the flap disc to grind the tac welds flat .

 

Spray repaired section with primer.

 

once the primer has dried, mix up a small amount of body filler and smoothly apply to the repaired aread. don't build it up too much (just makes for more sanding)

 

Then sand area and apply more filler if required.

 

Sand and finish till you are happy with the result.

 

I think i have covered most of it.....

 

CHEERS

Ryan

Tools;

Wire brush (drill or grinder powered)

Grinder (1mm cutting disc and flap disc)

Welder (Preferably Gas Mig, gasless will do ok tho)

Clean, rust free sheet metal (old panels are a good source of the right thickness)

Rust converter (for all the small bits you may have missed)

Primer (I STRONGLY recommend something like DyMark Zinc Gal. with a 93% zinc content its pretty rust resistant)

Good quality body filler and associated sanding equipment

 

Wire brush the rust affected area, usually reveals more rust than you could actually see before (good)

 

Cut out the affected area, make sure the section you cut out is bigger than the affected aread (5-10mm all round if possible) and try to keep the cut out in one piece.

 

Going thru the hole, try to coat as much of the inside of the panel you may thing has the begingings of rust with rust converter. then do the same with the Zinc rich primer.

 

Using the cut out section, cut out a section of clean metal from what you decide to use (not from your car :)) Keep it as close to the shape/size as the cut out section as you can. Remember to add the thickness of the disc to the new section to get it close to the sixe of the hole in the car.

 

Place the new section in the hole in the car and tac weld it in 1 place to hold it. adjust so that the section fits right (try not to let it sit too far out or you'll never get it looking good)

 

once you have it sitting right, using small tac welds, weld opposite sides (like doing up a wheel) going 1 small tac by 1 small tac (to keep the heat and associtated warpage to a bare minimum (it doesnt need to be completely welded around)

 

Use the flap disc to grind the tac welds flat .

 

Spray repaired section with primer.

 

once the primer has dried, mix up a small amount of body filler and smoothly apply to the repaired aread. don't build it up too much (just makes for more sanding)

 

Then sand area and apply more filler if required.

 

Sand and finish till you are happy with the result.

 

I think i have covered most of it.....

 

CHEERS

Ryan

 

Pics? :S

 

Very good write-up.. If you're not an expert now, you've no hope! :(

  • Author

thanks man that gave me a much better idea of what i have to do if the time comes

shove bunched up newspaper in the hole, cover with builders bog, don't sand or paint. Thats how we do it in the ghetto...

 

I don't know why I did it the way I did, when i could have done it this way. So much simpler :S

Any suggested brands of body filler?

 

Oh and what current/filler wire size makes for nice welds on this sort of gauge sheet metal?

 

I'm not very experienced with welding(i can braze the shit out of copper, brass and steel to an extent) my experience to date is more arc welding. I can make shit stick together but its none to pretty. I've enrolled in a welding course(stick

, mig and tig) which will hopefully teach me some correct techniques as my self taught ways make baby hey-zues cry!

 

 

Last but not least, any one with any tips for repairing rusted out boot rubber lips?

Rosie(my car) currently is weather proof with judicious amounts of silicon :lolcry:

The best I can do at short notice...:/

Thanks champ!

 

Also any recommendations as to what size/brand mig welder

is good for this work.

We have welders at work but I think the mig might be too big? So it's a good excuse to buy one I guess.

Also I think the filler rod for the tig would be more expensive than mig wire?

My suggested brand of filler that I've had experience with would have to be Evercoat RAGE. good stuff, about $45 per 4L tin

 

As for wire size, i'd say 0.9mm would be the go, on a pretty low voltage.

Thanks champ!

 

Also any recommendations as to what size/brand MIG welder

is good for this work.

We have welders at work but I think the MIG might be too big? So it's a good excuse to buy one I guess.

Also I think the filler rod for the tig would be more expensive than mig wire?

 

i paid 500 for a mig from repco, its orite

 

expect to go thru allot of disposable argon bottles so invest in bigger bottle if your ever gonna mig again

I've been using 0.6mm on the repairs I've done so far, seems to work really well.

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