Great thoroughness with your car champ. Especially to ALL running components outside of the car. Do you do a lot of work on the interior? Great workshop you get to work in BTW! :)

Great thoroughness with your car champ. Especially to ALL running components outside of the car. Do you do a lot of work on the interior? Great workshop you get to work in BTW! :)

 

Thanks mate. The interior on this car is immaculate so there hasn't been much need to touch the interior side of things. I'll post some proper pics of the interior up once the car is up,running and had a proper detail.

Progress report from yesterday

 

Removed carbies after testing volume output of fuel pump (all good). Found the intake manifold gasket broken! The jetting in the carbies was not appropriate for the application. Sent them down to Thornbury Carburettors to be overhauled and fitted with the correct jets/needles. Also the boot lid is in the process of getting resprayed inside and out :)

 

That is all for the moment and i hope to have it on the road by this weekend.

 

Matt.

More progress guys!

 

All the suspension gear is now in as well as a whiteline swaybar :blush: Looks really good under the car now as i have cleaned up all the bolts, painted the caster rod brackets and caster rods and polished up some bits and pieces.

 

 

 

Also got the carbies back today as well as a complete VRS kit. Peter from Thornbury Carburettors completely went through them start to finish and was great to deal with. If all goes well the car should be on the road tomorrow! :P

Very nice car, if I wasn't on my P's id do that conversion to my ke20.

Very nice car, if I wasn't on my P's id do that conversion to my ke20.

 

 

I'm on my p's :happy:

Got the carbies back on last night. much smoother but it still didn't go. Turns out after much head scratching that the top dead center mark on the bottom pulley is out! Thus roughly retarding my valve timing by about 20 degrees. Now for the fun part to begin as i hope i can adjust the camshaft positions without stripping down the whole motor.

 

Let the fun continue!

Got the carbies back on last night. much smoother but it still didn't go. Turns out after much head scratching that the top dead center mark on the bottom pulley is out! Thus roughly retarding my valve timing by about 20 degrees. Now for the fun part to begin as i hope i can adjust the camshaft positions without stripping down the whole motor.

 

Let the fun continue!

Oh no :hmm:

I'm on my p's :hmm:

 

 

I thought you wernt aloud engine conversions on your P's? well thats the case in QLD, you can put one in without a modplate because the 2t engine came out in the jap ke20's, but you need all T series running gear, suspension, ect, ect.

is the camshaft timing out or the balancer mark out?

19914afc - You aren't allowed engine conversions in Vic either, but this one was passed as an engine change by vic roads very much similar as how my other rolla was passed with a 7k.

 

Evan the mark on the the crank pulley is out, thus meaning when you set it on top dead center it actually isn't top dead center. Meaning when you set the camshafts in place they will be way out. See below,

 

More bad news

 

After measuring an actual top dead center and then trying to line up the camshaft in place the bottom chain has locked up (i think something has come off down there). Which requires the motor to be disassembled. YAY!

 

Might be able to get stuck into it next week. So watch this space for updates and photos of the rebuild.

Edited February 27, 201016 yr by 78_7kRolla

theres gotta be another way!

 

can you remove the timing case, inspect the chain/guides, tensioner?

 

orr can you remove the balancer and find another balancer with the correct markings?

orr can you remove the balancer and find another balancer with the correct markings?

Hrmm.. Just got me thinking. Does each part have their own keyway? It shouldn't be ABLE to be put out if they do.

Pretty silly if they don't have a keyway too. Anyway good luck. Should give it some "oomf" bits if you rebuild it :blinks:

Edited March 1, 201016 yr by seabiscuit

Many years ago I made up a TDC tool out of an old sparkplug like this. Makes it real easy to find exact TDC. :blinks:

 

You turn the motor one way until the tool just makes contact with the piston, make a mark on the pulley/balancer in relation to the TDC mark on the timing cover. Then turn the motor over the opposite way until contact is made, make another mark. Between the two new marks is the precise TDC... File and liquid paper the new centerline.

Edited March 1, 201016 yr by Felix

Many years ago I made up a TDC tool out of an old sparkplug like this. Makes it real easy to find exact TDC. :blinks:

 

You turn the motor one way until the tool just makes contact with the piston, make a mark on the pulley/balancer in relation to the TDC mark on the timing cover. Then turn the motor over the opposite way until contact is made, make another mark. Between the two new marks is the precise TDC... File and liquid paper the new centerline.

 

wait this got me thinking, so there should be some difficulty when turning over the engine cause the spark plug bolt has reached tdc?

 

shouldn't you make 2 of these tools?

 

lets say one on cylinder 1 and other one on cylinder 3? so when 1 buzzers or has continuity ,remove it, turn the engine over a bit more then 3 buzzes? (this means the engine is turning the right way and firing order is correct?

 

that means the engine isn't 180/360 degrees out?