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1uzfe Ke70 Drift Car!!


lloydske70

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This is what we have planned for the car:

 

Engine:

- 1UZ-FE 4L quad cam V8

- Extra stock throttle body on the other side of the plenum

- Haltech Platinum Sport 2000

- Strip loom of unnecessary stuff and add extra wires added for full sequential injection

- Custom headers with 2.25” outlets merging into a 3” exhaust system

- Castlemaine Rod Shop flywheel and bellhousing

- Xtreme button clutch

- R154 gearbox

- Custom tailshaft

- Early model Hilux diff with locked centre

 

Chassis:

- Sound deadener removed

- Firewall and steering column mount modified to get engine as far back as possible without major modifications

- Seam welding and bracing in high-stress areas

- Relatively simple CAMS approved full weld-in roll cage with single side-intrusion bars. We want to keep the weight down rather than get the car ridiculously rigid.

- Cut out and box up upper equal length 4 link mounts and brace well

- Rear doors welded in and shaved

- All door handles and locks shaved

- Plexiglass windows (or whatever it’s called)

 

Suspension/Handling:

 

Front:

- S13 crossmember moved 30mm forward compared to where holes usually line up for more caster without wrecking inner LCA bushes and no chance of binding due to the steering rack coming forward

- S13 steering rack with power steering

- S13 lower control arms

- Inner LCA pivots on crossmember re-drilled 30mm higher

- Caster rod inner pivots on caster rod brackets moved 20mm higher

- D-Project solid steering rack bushes

- TuneAgent tie rods and tie rod ends

- BC Racing S14 front coilovers with 7kg/mm springs

- S14 knuckles and hubs (5 stud)

- Knuckles modified

- Modified strut tower tops to position strut tops further backwards and out

- SuperPro inner LCA bushes and caster rod bushes

- Custom Whiteline front swaybar (haven’t decided thickness yet)

 

Rear:

- BC Racing AE86 rear setup with 4.5kg/mm springs

- Equal length 4 links with SuperPro bushes

- Techno Toy Tuning panhard rod

- Move panhard rod pivot down on diff

- Make up and weld on “traction brackets” to diff to correct squat

- Stock swaybar with SuperPro link and D bushes

 

Brakes:

- Brake booster removed

- Pedal modified and brake master cylinder mounted higher to increase pedal ratio

- We have multiple different sized master cylinders which will be tried until we get the right pedal feel

- S14 front brakes

- Hilux rear drum brakes (locks up well with handbrake compared to disks)

- Driver-adjustable brake bias

 

Wheels:

Front - On the lookout for front wheels in 15x8.5 between +25 and +30 and in 5x114.3

Rear – 15x10 -25 black sunraysias

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big plans, how likey are you are to go ahead with it?

 

There are three main geometry problems with your concept that I can see straight out. but I don't have time to explain now. I will as soon as I can.

 

 

Now why an S13 crossmember?

Edited by Sam_Q
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big plans, how likey are you are to go ahead with it?

 

There are three main geometry problems with your concept that I can see straight out. but I don't have time to explain now. I will as soon as I can.

 

 

Now why an S13 crossmember?

 

 

I'd think moving the crossmember forward 30mm would be enough to compensate for the difference in wheelbase to allow for the ackerman angles set in the S13 suspension from the factory... The new angle on the steering arms would mess with it a bit, but I would have thought the other mods such as tilting the struts back even further and lifting the pivot points for the control arms and castor rods would be taking it further out rather than fixing it...

 

Other thing too... i don't think you will need to worry about touching the handbrake to get her drifting... not with the power to weight ratio you'll end up with, not to mention the torque of the 1UZ...

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I'll be keen to see it. I was wondering when someone would snatch up that motor from the just north of the city. Glad to see it's being used sensibly! Ha ha.

With no turbolag, what instant control you'll have, especially with all that linear power!

Edited by robj
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big plans, how likey are you are to go ahead with it?

 

There are three main geometry problems with your concept that I can see straight out. but I don't have time to explain now. I will as soon as I can.

 

 

Now why an S13 crossmember?

 

Silvia front stuff for a number of reasons including parts availability, easy 5 stud, easy big brakes, readily available modified knuckles to our specs, wider track whilst still retaining a low scrub radius which makes steering feel much better, power steering etc. etc.

 

Keen to hear about the geometry problems you mentioned. Still in early stages of build so open to suggestions. If 2 of those problems are bump-steer and ackerman, that will be sorted with custom knuckles.

 

I'd think moving the crossmember forward 30mm would be enough to compensate for the difference in wheelbase to allow for the ackerman angles set in the S13 suspension from the factory... The new angle on the steering arms would mess with it a bit, but I would have thought the other mods such as tilting the struts back even further and lifting the pivot points for the control arms and castor rods would be taking it further out rather than fixing it...

 

Other thing too... i don't think you will need to worry about touching the handbrake to get her drifting... not with the power to weight ratio you'll end up with, not to mention the torque of the 1UZ...

 

Will be running modified knuckles to increase lock, reduce turns to lock, reduce ackerman and correct bump-steer. The inner and outer tie rod pivots will be parallel to the inner and outer LCA pivots for the least amount of bump-steer possible.

 

The inner pivots definately need to come up to raise the front roll centre which goes very low when lowering. The rear doesn't do this so un-corrected, the balance of the car is very over-steery.

 

Yep handbrake will be sweet as-is. Maybe thicker cables.

Edited by bradsm87
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sorry for the delay, it's a bummer that I have to wait till a Sunday these days before giving a detailed forum answer.

 

now before I start I don't want to be miunderstood as a someone who just puts someone down, I like your ambition and your old Corolla looks like a good package. I just want to stop you from having any issues that will cause you problems. Oh and you seem to be a kick arse driver.

 

One other thing is I only have a loose grasp of suspension princibles and I may make a mistake here.

 

now moving the pivot points on the crossmember for the lower control arms in any direction will cause bump steer and its as simple as that. This can not be adjusted for with any custom steering arms or anything like that and while making them all parallel reduces it somewhat they all are still mismatched in length so it will still be there. This is why only the strut end can be adjusted for roll center. Also moving the pivot point up or down will automaticly make them anything but parallel.

 

Another thing I picked up won't this combination give you about -15 degrees camber?

 

I can't see acherman being an issue as it's more flexable in design than people give it credit for, afterall people still don't agree if you should use 2/3 down the car or the diff as the intersecting point to work out the angle. For drifting I would lean towards significantly less acherman as it stops you having the equivolent of toe in while countersteering whilst going sideways

Edited by Sam_Q
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Moving the inner pivots straight up then moving the outer tie rod pivots straight down by the same amount will have EXACTLY the same bump-steer as wen u started. Moving the outer lca pivots down and moving the inner pivots up will both throw out bump steer and need correcting either way.

 

Sounds like you've been lucky enough to mainly deal with toyota setups. Roll centre adjustment is very easy because the spindles are separate from the knuckles so all u need is a big spacer between and ur set. Bump steer unchanged.

Edited by bradsm87
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indeed your right, good to see someone on here who really knows their stuff. When I was thinking custom steering arms I had in my had for a different angle or something like that, not up and down which now that I think about it makes a whole lot of sense.

 

So the lower control arms are going to be drasticly shortened?

 

I have to say I like how civilised this thread has been, if there was a simular post on ae86dc all hell would of broken loose.

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