Whats The Deal?

[Evan G]

rebuilt engine or imported

[Felix]

4ku piston FTW

 

It is a 5k Evan, read the first post. ;)

[Chief]

i was thinking that hahaha but i thought it might have a bigger stroke or something

[Evan G]

It is a 5k Evan, read the first post. ;)

 

shhhh :D (crawls back into hole)

[LXY-642]

aren't 4k piston's to small for the 5k bore? as they share the same stroke but different bore?

[Chief]

lol i dunno I'm lost as is hahaha

 

hey guys so would the engine be still usable if i pull most of it apart and cleaned it?

[Taz_Rx]

aren't 4k piston's to small for the 5k bore? as they share the same stroke but different bore?

 

Correct.

 

Evan obviously saw the D-dished pistons and assumed they were 4ku/4ke...... and forgot that 5k's also had d-dishes.

 

 

Just pull her apart (head off) and check the usual BHG symtoms.

[philbey]

Because of the pressure differences its more common to get water in the oil (and cause mayo) than oil in the water.

Undo the sump plug and see what comes out first, oil or water. As the oil will sit on top of the water in the sump, if there's any water in the sump it'll drain out first. Last time I blew a HG I drained about a litre of water from the sump before I even saw any oil!!!

 

hmm dunno about that. All motors get condensation in the oil anyway, but the 3 HG's I've dealt with on K engines (and another on a CA18) the indicators was cappucino foam, most likely because of the combustion pressure leaking through into the water jacket.

 

I read somewhere that you have to number the push rod's so you don't get them confused but i think that was on an 8 so i did it anyways to

 

You're runnning hydraulic lifters, I wouldn't worry about that.

[ke70dave]

hmm dunno about that. All motors get condensation in the oil anyway, but the 3 HG's I've dealt with on K engines (and another on a CA18) the indicators was cappucino foam, most likely because of the combustion pressure leaking through into the water jacket.

 

also depends where the headgasket fails.

if it fails between the combustion chamber and the water gallery, you will get the frothy radiator and low compression.

if it fails between the combustion chamber and the oil gallery, i assume epic blow by and low compression.

if it fails between 2 cylinders, i assume you just get low compression on those 2 cylrs.

 

if it fails between oil and water id say you would get water in oil (in your sump). due to the pressure difference that tax-rx mentioned. though the oil gallery is under pressure as well. so one must wonder why you don't see oil in water.

 

oil pressure would be higher than the cooling system pressure right? i wonder why it is always the water that ends up in the sump, and not oil in the cooling system.

 

i to have had the joy of opening a sump plug and letting all the water out. it definately puts a downer on the rest of your day when that happends!!

[Hiro Protagonist]

also depends where the headgasket fails.

if it fails between the combustion chamber and the water gallery, you will get the frothy radiator and low compression.

if it fails between the combustion chamber and the oil gallery, i assume epic blow by and low compression.

if it fails between 2 cylinders, i assume you just get low compression on those 2 cylrs.

 

if it fails between oil and water id say you would get water in oil (in your sump). due to the pressure difference that tax-rx mentioned. though the oil gallery is under pressure as well. so one must wonder why you don't see oil in water.

 

oil pressure would be higher than the cooling system pressure right? i wonder why it is always the water that ends up in the sump, and not oil in the cooling system.

 

i to have had the joy of opening a sump plug and letting all the water out. it definately puts a downer on the rest of your day when that happends!!

 

The oil system isn't totally pressurised though, whereas the water system is. Remember that there will be air in the sump and the cam/rocker covers, whereas the water system (assuming the radiator cap pressure valve is closed) is 100% coolant. If the gallery in the block is a return/drain to the sump then it is highly likely that an adjacent water gallery/jacket would be under a higher pressure, and thus you'd blow water into the oil but not the other way around.

[ke70dave]

The oil system isn't totally pressurised though, whereas the water system is. Remember that there will be air in the sump and the cam/rocker covers, whereas the water system (assuming the radiator cap pressure valve is closed) is 100% coolant. If the gallery in the block is a return/drain to the sump then it is highly likely that an adjacent water gallery/jacket would be under a higher pressure, and thus you'd blow water into the oil but not the other way around.

 

ah very good point.

 

ive not really had much to do with oil systems. might have to do a bit of reading. but yes you are right if it blows through an oil drain gallery, the water will just pour in.

 

thanks for the reply mate!

[Chief]

thanks guys ive pulled the head off without using a hammer = WIN, YAY thanks guys for all the info ive pulled the sump off clean and put back together. Taz you were right haha in the bottom of the sump where most of the water was but the oil was kinda milky too lol. Now with replacing the head gasket how should i go abput it and what do i have to do i found the head gasket bolt order on here but i can't remember where lol. I can get another head gasket from toyota for around 44 bucks what else will i need? i know i need a torque wrench but its the little things that i forget about haha

 

CHEERS GUYS for the support

[Taz_Rx]

The oil system isn't totally pressurised though, whereas the water system is. Remember that there will be air in the sump and the cam/rocker covers, whereas the water system (assuming the radiator cap pressure valve is closed) is 100% coolant. If the gallery in the block is a return/drain to the sump then it is highly likely that an adjacent water gallery/jacket would be under a higher pressure, and thus you'd blow water into the oil but not the other way around.

 

 

This is exactly what I was talking about earlier. I just didn't explain it quite as well as Hiro did.

And as Dave said, it really depends where the HG blew. Worse BHG I've even had in a K (drove from Hobart to Launceston - 200km when the HG was already blown) I had really bad mayo under the cap, steam pouring out of the exhaust, and exhaust bubbles coming through the header (rad overflow) tank...... but no real sign of oil in the water.

 

Cheif - Deffinately get a genuine toyota gasket if you can. They're well worth the extra coin. Re-assemble it with some 3k or 4k head bolts (instead of the 5k ones) if you can get a set easy. Skimming the head flat is a MUST! Apart from the its just a few consumables you need like oil, oil filter, coolant etc. Oh and the tightening order and torque specs should be on the packet for the headgasket you buy. :happy:

[Chief]

This is exactly what I was talking about earlier. I just didn't explain it quite as well as Hiro did.

And as Dave said, it really depends where the HG blew. Worse BHG I've even had in a K (drove from Hobart to Launceston - 200km when the HG was already blown) I had really bad mayo under the cap, steam pouring out of the exhaust, and exhaust bubbles coming through the header (rad overflow) tank...... but no real sign of oil in the water.

 

Cheif - Deffinately get a genuine toyota gasket if you can. They're well worth the extra coin. Re-assemble it with some 3k or 4k head bolts (instead of the 5k ones) if you can get a set easy. Skimming the head flat is a MUST! Apart from the its just a few consumables you need like oil, oil filter, coolant etc. Oh and the tightening order and torque specs should be on the packet for the headgasket you buy. :yes:

 

 

Yeah definatly genuine toyota its only 20 buck difference and its genuine and how would i go about skimming the block or head? the head looks still pretty good nick from the porting its still looks like it been polished on the surface with the valves that attaches to the block. thanks again for you time and the info :happy:

[Taz_Rx]

Head skimming needs to be done at an auto machining shop. Maybe take it to them and get them to run a straight edge over it to check. If it did blow a HG though you'd be silly not to get it done. For $40 odd, its also cheap piece of mind.

I once though "nah I don't need to skim it" and re-assembled my motor. I blew abother HG 25km later. :happy: