How To Wear In My 4k?

[Evan G]

since I'm waiting for my engine to be finished off. this topic has gone through my mind couple of times. Ive read through the FAQ witch tells me to apply different loads on the engine so the rings bed in.

 

i have also come across this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??

The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

 

Why ??

Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

 

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...

How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??

Of course it can't.

 

have a look at the comparison pictures, beading by the instruction manual Vs. driving it hard

 

has anyone got any tips/real life experience with bedding in rings?

I'm going to use gulf western 20w - 50 for the first start, what oil should i use after bedding everything in?

 

bedding in the cam? 1500rpm for 10 Min's then 2000rpm for 5 mins?

[philbey]

I just drove mine and loaded it up, you know shift up a gear early and chug up hills.

 

20W50 is all I run in mine.

[rob83ke70]

run it in on a simple, high quality but minimal additive 15w40 during break in and for maybe the first 10,000km (change the oil every 5000km).

 

to break it in, start it up, bed the cam in if you have a new one (keep the revs above 2000rpm for 10 minutes or so?) check nothing is leaking, let it cool back down, check levels again, start it up, take it for a drive, start of gentle, and as the engine warms up give it more of a pizzling. Load the engine up in accelleration and decelleration, don't "lug" it too much, but definitely accelerate and decelerate a lot.

 

Change its oil and filter. Run for 5000km, then change oil and filter, run for another 5000km, then change oil and filter.

 

after you've run it for 10,000km, you can either keep using the mineral 15w40, or switch to a synthetic. I'd use a 10w60 synthetic, castrol edge sport, shell helix ultra, or maybe penrite sin, or something similar. Personal preference really.

 

Every man and his dog has a different version of this. My former employer reckoned you should change the oil and filter after bedding in the camshaft as the anti scuff lubricant apparently eats piston rings.... but I've heard plenty of questionable things from him so take that with a grain of salt.

 

Robert.

[Toy-Yoda[RL]]

shift up a gear early and chug up hills.

don't "lug" it too much

Perfect example :)

[Felix]

On first start run it at 2500 for a half hour to bed in the cam. Gives you a chance to also check everything for leaks. Keep an eye on the temp.

 

On the first drive, nail it up to about 3/4 of max revs (in 2nd and 3rd) about a dozen times or so. Combustion pressure is what forces the rings against the bore walls. High cylinder pressures early on will help to bed in the rings and avoid glazed bores.

 

After that drive the car reasonably normal at varying loads and road speeds. Don't lug it, as it can cause pinging and overheating of your new motor that being tight will run hotter than normal.

 

Change the oil and filter after about 300 kays (also retorque head gasket and reset valve clearances), then again at about a 1000. After the first 1000 kays just drive it as you would normally.

 

If you want to run synthetic, don't put it in until about 1000 kays or so. Otherwise you may never bed the rings in and end up with lots of blowby and reduced compression with glazed bores.

[altezzaclub]

I always heard "varying loads and revs but don't lug it"..

 

However a friend who was head of Toyota 'Works' Division in South Africa said they were started up at the end of the assembly line, driven straight to the dyno, run on the dyno up and own once then driven off and parked to await delivery.

 

I'm sure they also get well thrashed by young hoons working in dealerships and transport companies given half a chance!

[Evan G]

On first start run it at 2500 for a half hour to bed in the cam. Gives you a chance to also check everything for leaks. Keep an eye on the temp.

 

On the first drive, nail it up to about 3/4 of max revs (in 2nd and 3rd) about a dozen times or so. Combustion pressure is what forces the rings against the bore walls. High cylinder pressures early on will help to bed in the rings and avoid glazed bores.

 

After that drive the car reasonably normal at varying loads and road speeds. Don't lug it, as it can cause pinging and overheating of your new motor that being tight will run hotter than normal.

 

Change the oil and filter after about 300 kays (also retorque head gasket and reset valve clearances), then again at about a 1000. After the first 1000 kays just drive it as you would normally.

 

If you want to run synthetic, don't put it in until about 1000 kays or so. Otherwise you may never bed the rings in and end up with lots of blowby and reduced compression with glazed bores.

 

 

just the info i need!

 

lug it ? explain :)?

 

Ive got a route set in mind. but theres some red lights before my destination (4 decent size hills)

 

i got a note from my camshaft re grinder telling me .016" clearances hot? I'm guessing set it at that when its cold then recheck after wearing in the cam??

 

also do i prime the hydraulic lifters before installation?

[rob83ke70]

that sounds good felix :)

 

Robert.

[Des]

Ive heard the same thing as what Felix explained, and thats what i will be doing of i build a motor for my Ae71.

[love ke70]

just to add to whats been said, felix is pretty much on the ball, but i don't like running a cam in on a new motor, penrite sell an actual running-in oil. no additives basically, pretty cheap to.

 

and why do you wanna run a 20w50 on a new motor? and the suggestion of a 60 grade, i don't understand...

 

the increased pressure creates massive temps in the bearing, and continually running thick oil can cause sludging. you should not need to run thicker than a 10w40 on any motor thats healthy.

 

anyone with further input?

[Evan G]

i like the idea of the running in oil, ill use that

 

what oil you fellas think i should run?

 

castrol 5w30?

 

mineral? semi syn?

Edited June 6, 2010 by Evan G

[Felix]

Keep in mind the old k series motors are not designed with as tight of tolerances as modern day multi-valve motors.

 

I'd keep it mineral until at least a 1000 kays. As for oil type I'm pretty sure they recommended something like 20-40w from the factory. Check your owners handbook or on some oil manufacturers websites.

[Evan G]

when i searched toyota 4k on the castrol, these are the recommendations

 

20W-50

15W-40

10W-40

[rob83ke70]

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

 

some light reading about oils there....

 

you want something that is pretty straightforward (doesn't need heaps of additives to increase its hot temperature viscosity) if you are using a mineral based oil. 15w40 is probably the best grade.

 

if you are using a proper synthetic, I can't see a drama with a 10w60.

 

Again, personal opinion - its your car, you can really do what you like with it :)

 

on a side note, people on here said to use a 20w50 in a 7a engine apparently this is what toyota use..... the toyota 7a workshop manual that I borrowed said to use 5w30, 10w30 or 15w40 depending upon ambient temperatures..... I put 15w40 in it to run it in, and 15w40 in it for the first two oil changes (at 5000km each) then I will switch to probably a 10w60 full synthetic.

 

Robert.

[rob83ke70]

magnatec 10w40 isn't a great idea - its a semi synthetic and uses long chain polymers to extend its high temp viscosity - these break down during the service life of the car - when you pull your oil out at 10,000km, send some away to be tested, it will probably be a 10w20 or 10w25 equivalent....

 

we use gtx 10w30 or magnatec 15w40 for most applications in our workshop, obviously if it needs something different we would put that in.... much better than my previous workshop - just put in whatever you feel like it needs!!

 

Robert.