camerondownunder88 Posted June 16, 2010 Report Posted June 16, 2010 Hi, Ill have to psot pics later but I currently have an issue. In my KE15 I HAVE AN EARLY 2 PIN FLYWHEEL (ORIGINAL ke15 ITEM) AND A ORIGINAL ke15 clutch setup. Original KE15 clutch ressure plate has 660Lbs force over a stock KE10/11 one of 600lbs FYI. But heres the problem. I want to run a later 3 pin flywheel. So I need a later 3 pin cluthch cover. Now early K boxes that fit KE1X had less splines on the input shaft and there actual clutch disk has a differentsplines int eh centre. Can I use a early clutch disk in a later clutch pressure plate and flywheel setup? Or will it foul or damage it in ayn way? Is there anyone out there doing this? As I want to runa 3 pin type flywheel but keep my original KE15 gearbox so I don't have to cut holes int he floor. If I can't looks like ill have to do an input shaft swap and that will get messy..LOL Cheers Cameron Quote
Taz_Rx Posted June 16, 2010 Report Posted June 16, 2010 Although the KE1X's had a smaller input shaft they still had a 180mm clutch plate, so I see no reason why you couldn't just use the early clutch disc between a later FW and PP. :lol: Quote
philbey Posted June 16, 2010 Report Posted June 16, 2010 Yeh I second that. I'd also check that the ID and OD of the friction area is the same (pressure plate to clutch plate) and that there's no mechanical clash between the spring plate and centre boss of the clutchplate (possibly foul with the pressure plate levers or something like that. Also if the shaft ID is smaller, you may have a smaller thrust bearing which will need to interface with the new pressure plate. Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Posted June 19, 2010 As promised pictures of the flywheel I will be using in my KE15 5K engine build. It is a JUN flywheel think it is the 3KG one for get exact weight but I didnt go ultra light wheel. The difference between this and ultra light is ultra light one has holes bored through it around the friction area. You can see they have extra holes drilled for moving the dowel pins for locating the pressure plate problem is they are weld on the back to retain the 3 that are in it atm so I can't move them ;) So hence I need a late-model pressure plate. And need the early clutch plate to fit early gear box. So I went comparing parts on the exeedy web page see what I could find WOW where do I start. Release bearing. From what I found same bearing 6006 used from KE15 to KE70 so philbey throw out bearing shouldnt be an issue but I have 7 K boxes in my land on parts so I shall compare them all to make sure first. Secondly clutch cover. Ok early KE's are a 2 pin flywheel late is 3 pin. Also KE15/17 sprinters had more clamping pressure. Mistake one lists same pressure plate OEM for all early corollas so if I go this route I will get less clamping pressure :dance: FAIL. The part number for the OEM exeedy KE15 clutch is: TYK-6094, clutch plate info: Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth: 180 x 18 x 16 (NOTE: no performance option available) The part number for the KE20 clutch again should be 2 pin flywheel is: TYK-6066 clutch plate info:Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 180 x 21.6 x 19 (NOTE: no performance option available) Here we can now see they are listing the clutch plate as same size just larger input shaft for the gear box. This is correct and more spines. Now KE35 clutch (no KE30 listing): TYK-6036 clutch plate info:Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth 180 x 21.6 x 19 WOW ok now we have a performance listing to. This performance clutch and the OEM clutch part number is now the same from KE3X to KE70 for a K box NOT a T box. So from this I have gathered. KE1X,2X clutch kit has same pressure plate for 2 pin flywheel but later KE2X clutch kit has different clutch plate for later gearbox shaft size. KE3X to KE7X has clutch pressure plate for 3 pin flywheel and later clutch plate but this clutch plate is same from KE2X kit to KE7X kit. Now I need a 3 pin clutch cover. So looks like I will have to order a KE3X to KE7X kit to get the performance cover with more clamping pressure. I will then have to order a KE1X clutch kit to obtain an early KE1X clutch plate with the smaller shaft size in the centre. WOW getting tricky. So could be expensive but should work. So now to go out the back where I have a KE17 engine sitting with sprinter early flywheel and a 3K out of a KE30 sitting there and see if I can fit early clutch plate with late-model pressure plate and mate up a gear box. WOW. I shall post findings later. But for now back to study. Cheers Cameron Quote
Felix Posted June 19, 2010 Report Posted June 19, 2010 Have you got spare gearboxes for if you break the orig ke1x 4 speed? You should just put in a ke70 5 speed. Better shift position (I know you'd have to do something with your console), spare boxes easier to find, plus overdrive. Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Posted June 19, 2010 currently have 1 spare KE1X box. 2 spare KE3X 4 speeds and a fits full of KE30 and KE70 5 speeds so i have a range. I just want to avoid cutting the floor out of the KE15 at all costs. But again finding KE1X gear boxes can be hard. But then that raises another question. Early KE1X gear box has shifter right up front. Smaller bearings less splines weaker over all. KE3X gear box has mid position shifter larger bearings more splines on shaft. Is it possible to say get a KE1X rear housing and adapt it to a KE3X housing? Also do KE2X share the same shifter position as a KE1X. As KE2X has the larger shaft and bearings so if they share shifter position then I could look at a KE2X gear box option also. End of the day Id rather have a stock KE1X box but if I do blow one easily well ill prob go straight to a KE70 5 speed for larger bearings over drive with a KE3X rear housing so I have to cut the floor less. But then I would lose my KE15 SL centre console..LOL Cameron Quote
Felix Posted June 19, 2010 Report Posted June 19, 2010 ke2x has shifter position in same place as ke3/5x boxes. No idea if extension housings would swap over. Just thinking that with a lightweight flywheel and a heavier duty clutch, gearchanges may become more of a precise art. Quote
parrot Posted June 19, 2010 Report Posted June 19, 2010 Couldn't you just take your KE1x pressure plate to a proper brake and clutch workshop, and have the pressure plate drilled to suit your new flywheels dowels. If the diaphragm doesn't provide enough clamping pressure, get them to rivet in a replacement diaphragm. In the days before uprated pressure plates were available off the shelf for most applications, this was what you did. Then you could use a KE1x driven plate. The average Midas won't have a clue, but find a decent clutch place and they should be able to do it. Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Posted June 19, 2010 Well that lead me to think now if a KE1X rear housing can swap to a KE2X/3X box I htink no. As the KE1X shifter has that plate arrangement to stop you going into reverse etc built into the shifter (that's why I have never made a short shift kit for the KE15..LOL) and the KE2X and later boxes it is just the ball on a stick arrangement. I actually threw out a KE2X box a few moons ago wish I didn't now..LOL Any one in QLD got a broken box to donate for measuring and seeing if I can adapt housings? Also reminds me KE1X starters bolt onto the gear box with through bolts. Late model starters bolts thread into the starter. So again small difference there in bell housing requires drilling I have al ready done this to my KE15 as I run a a KE70 starter. Cheers Cameron Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Posted June 19, 2010 In reply to parrot I just ran out side and looked. A KE17 clutch pressure plate looks like it can't be easily drilled to suit a 3 pin flywheel. I say easily as a few welds hammer etc could be done not cheap but. And if I can just buy a 3 pin clutch pressure plate and use an early clutch disk why go to the mess of re-drilling ill just buy 2 clutch kits to make one. Also if I get a KE30-70 clutch kit they do a sports one with up rated pressure plate I belive. WIll have to ring them monday to find out more accurate info I feel. But has anyone recently bought a exeedy clutch for a KE what are they worth? Cheers Cameron Quote
KENut Posted June 19, 2010 Report Posted June 19, 2010 But has anyone recently bought a exeedy clutch for a KE what are they worth?Cheers Cameron KE70 stock clutch kit was $120 ish Do you have picatur of the rear of the flywheel? Pretty hawt looking Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Posted June 19, 2010 Here you go there's the back.....This think is thin as and tough as. Has 5000km on it and the friction surface is like NEW. Back shows some signs of heat but nothing that has killed metal structure. Can see ring gear teeth are a bit worse for wear but I am in the process of grinding and hand polishing them back to required shape etc at work as I do that for a living a bit so it's a spare time job cleaning it up..LOL Will keep all posted on Monday how fit-ment of late clutch pressure plate and early clutch plate and a gear box go on Monday. Also Thanks HEAPS KENut for the rough price just so I know what I'm getting my self into. Should be able to get clutch at trade price so if I can get 2 kits for about $200 ill be happy. As the left over parts will work in the daily driver with other parts from my mountain of old clutch parts..LOL Cheers Cameron Quote
Felix Posted June 19, 2010 Report Posted June 19, 2010 You might still be able to buy the individual parts (pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing) at Walkers to make up your own kit. Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Posted June 20, 2010 Hi, I could try walkers but I have just sourced exeedy clutches a mate can get cost price direct from them 1 day for delivery. SO Ill see if he can get individual parts then prob go kit as yeah would be a waste to have 2 half kits on the shelf. Cameron Quote
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