79corollagun Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Hey guys I have a ke55 with a 4k motor. It keep overheating, I have replaced the Radiator and flushed the system with fresh coolant. If I run it with the heater on it runs a little higher than normal but if I turn it off it goes up to the red on the gauge. Has anyone else experienced this before could you let me know what you think thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ke70dave Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 hows the thermostat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79corollagun Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 hows the thermostat? Well when I removed the thermostat housing there was no thermostat and it was the same in my spare motor. The thermostat is like a round plate with a spring I was told is that right? Is there another locqtion for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hiro Protagonist Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 How long have you owned the car? Sounds like it has had an overheating problem for a while and the previous owner removed the thermostat to try and get around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blktoy35 Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 (edited) no other location for the thermostat....is it using loosing water/coolant? Edited July 16, 2010 by blktoy35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79corollagun Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 How long have you owned the car? Sounds like it has had an overheating problem for a while and the previous owner removed the thermostat to try and get around it. is it using loosing water/coolant? Nah it's holding all it's coolant and pressure and vie had it for a few months but it's only done this when I changed the motor. Bu my old motor dosnt have the thermostat either. Wouldnit rub cooler or hotter with the thermostat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 (edited) Could do either, but usually cooler with no t'stat. The other downside is the slow heating up which wears the rings and chews petrol, so I'd never be without one! Try fitting one and see what effect it has. So you have swapped complete motors over?? You now have a different water pump, a different block & head, and a different temperature sender unit?? Any of those could cause overheating to show, but I'd start with swapping the water pump over. The common thing between the motors is the gauge of course, so perhaps that or its voltage regulator is the problem. Also- at what speed or sort of driving is this?? Sitting in traffic or cruising at 80k, or 100k+ down the motorway?? Sitting idling always heats a motor up and it is up to the fan to sort that out. If it an idling problem, did you change fans? Edited July 16, 2010 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79corollagun Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Could do either, but usually cooler with no t'stat. The other downside is the slow heating up which wears the rings and chews petrol, so I'd never be without one! Try fitting one and see what effect it has. So you have swapped complete motors over?? You now have a different water pump, a different block & head, and a different temperature sender unit?? Any of those could cause overheating to show, but I'd start with swapping the water pump over. The common thing between the motors is the gauge of course, so perhaps that or its voltage regulator is the problem. Also- at what speed or sort of driving is this?? Sitting in traffic or cruising at 80k, or 100k+ down the motorway?? Sitting idling always heats a motor up and it is up to the fan to sort that out. If it an idling problem, did you change fans? Well I changed the sender and radiator, it Is only at idleing. But now i think I should get a thermostat lol. By the way the old motor never overheated on me and it has no thrmostat either :). I just find it strange how the temp drops when the heater is turned on, I thought the coolant was always pumped through the heater core wether the fan is on or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Ah- water pump is a likely culprit, as is the fan if you have changed the fan setup at all. The pump may not be moving enough water at idle due to corrosion of the impellor, so I'd swap those over to start with... The heater 'heat' control opens a valve in the water line to let water circulate, so if you have it on 'cold' no water goes through the heater core. The fact that the heater cools it means your overall system doesn't quite have enough cooling power as its OK the rest of the time. A worse scenario would be rust blocking the block or head water channels in that motor, so it circulates a lot less than your old one, but I'd try the pump first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79corollagun Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Ah- water pump is a likely culprit, as is the fan if you have changed the fan setup at all. The pump may not be moving enough water at idle due to corrosion of the impellor, so I'd swap those over to start with... The heater 'heat' control opens a valve in the water line to let water circulate, so if you have it on 'cold' no water goes through the heater core. The fact that the heater cools it means your overall system doesn't quite have enough cooling power as its OK the rest of the time. A worse scenario would be rust blocking the block or head water channels in that motor, so it circulates a lot less than your old one, but I'd try the pump first. Ok thanks i will get a new pump tomorrow and try it out, i will let you know how it goes. Is it a major task to remove the water pump cause it looks to be behind the pulleys :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 I haven't done a Rolla one but generally they're not hard. Water drained, alty loosened, pulley off, pump off, block cleaned for new gasket & reassemble.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79corollagun Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 I haven't done a Rolla one but generally they're not hard. Water drained, alty loosened, pulley off, pump off, block cleaned for new gasket & reassemble.... Well I ust put a new water pump in and its still the same problem, I don't know if this matters but when I bought the car with the other motor the heater hoses were disconnected and when I changed the motor I checked it for leaks and there was No leaks so it had me thinking why he disconnected it if it worked. Could this in any way be related to the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79corollagun Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 Oh and also the link between the waterpump and thermostat housing holes have been braised closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 17, 2010 Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 (edited) The heater hoses shouldn't be a problem, that is just a loop extension on the water system. If the heater is on they will cool the motor more. However the link up to the thermostat I thought was to get rid of air cavitation in the pump, I'm not sure how important that is, or what the symptom of a fault is with it. What's the fan situation? Silicon centre? Shrouded or not? Electric?? The fan will work best at idle with a shroud on, although the shroud makes the radiator less efficient at speed. The electric fans guys fit sometimes have flat casings that block the airflow through the rad so it only flows through the fan blades, and that is even more extreme than the stock shroud. If the fan is the same you had before and you have a new pump & new radiator then you have better cooling than before, which only leaves the motor itself. Is the tuning OK? Retarded timng leads to heat, as does lean burning, but I'm not sure if they would be enough to heat it up that much. ..and the worst would be lots of shit in the cooling chambers of the block/head. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37717 Did the guy you got the engine off talk about it running hot?? Those braised up links may just be because of corrosion, or he may have been trying to fix something. Edited July 17, 2010 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79corollagun Posted July 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2010 The heater hoses shouldn't be a problem, that is just a loop extension on the water system. If the heater is on they will cool the motor more. However the link up to the thermostat I thought was to get rid of air cavitation in the pump, I'm not sure how important that is, or what the symptom of a fault is with it. What's the fan situation? Silicon centre? Shrouded or not? Electric?? The fan will work best at idle with a shroud on, although the shroud makes the radiator less efficient at speed. The electric fans guys fit sometimes have flat casings that block the airflow through the rad so it only flows through the fan blades, and that is even more extreme than the stock shroud. If the fan is the same you had before and you have a new pump & new radiator then you have better cooling than before, which only leaves the motor itself. Is the tuning OK? Retarded timng leads to heat, as does lean burning, but I'm not sure if they would be enough to heat it up that much. ..and the worst would be lots of shit in the cooling chambers of the block/head. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=37717 Did the guy you got the engine off talk about it running hot?? Those braised up links may just be because of corrosion, or he may have been trying to fix something. It is the standard plastic fan with shroud but now after changing the waterpump the motor stays hot weather driving or idleing. once i turn the heater on it does drop down abit but not enough for it to be normal. the motor seems to run fine and with the radiator cap off and the motor running i can feel waterflow in the radiator. Is there anything i can buy to cleen out the system completly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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