Jordain Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Posted January 14, 2012 Yeah I just want to take the top in without taking the bottums out. I want to keep it under the stock guards. Got it sorted, don't worry :-O Quote
CanadianKE17 Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 The car looks wicked man, esp with those mkIIIs. What width are they? Damn, I wish we could still get decent sizes in 13s and 14s out here, but I guess there's just no interest in small cars. I'm stuck with tall skinny 13s, 185/60/14s, or 15s with crappy smart car tires (175/50/15). Â Do you have any knowledge on whether bump steer will be an issue putting a KE70 rack into a KE20 crossmember? Because the control arms mount closer to the center on a KE20 unit. I want to convert to rack as well, though I may just chop up an AE7 or TE7 crossmember (we don't have ke7s in North America). Quote
Jordain Posted January 19, 2012 Author Report Posted January 19, 2012 They are 14x7 rims with a 195/45r14 tyre and I got 155/50r14 for it aswell. Why don't you widen a set of 15" SAAB interceptor rims and run a 175/50r15 tyre. 15x7.5" chasers with a 175/50r15 would look Overrated and you can get 15's to sit well on a KE10. Â Bump steer won't be an issure when putting a standard KE70 rack on a KE20 crossmember. I have already chopped a KE70 crossmember for a KE10.. it works a lot better for a track hack or non street car, but since I'm using this KE10 for everyday driving and I need it to pass engineering I need the crossmember to be a standard, bolt in configuration. The KE20/Te27 crossmember is the solution for this and using Rob's KE25 R&P conversion, Here's the link by the way.. it's a good read, and I plan on copying his rack position, but modifying it a little for my car. Â Rob's KE25 Rack and Pinion conversion! Quote
CanadianKE17 Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 Thanks for the info! I'm just going to use all e7 junk, I don't have inspections to worry about. Quote
Jordain Posted January 20, 2012 Author Report Posted January 20, 2012 Â All I did was chop 20mm off both ends, weld right angle to it, box it up, drill holes, bolt it into the car and weld big washers to the underside of the crossmember... Would be a lot easier than what i'm doing now, but for legalitys I can't. Quote
Jordain Posted January 20, 2012 Author Report Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) Â KE20 cross member, KE70 rack and pinion... little temporary brackets. Â Â sits snug.. roughly 85mm from the centre of the centre of the LCA bushings, and about 23mm from the end of the crossmember to the rack. 8mm above the LCA pivot point. Will do a bumpsteer check soon...... Looks good so far though. Edited January 24, 2012 by Jordain Quote
Jordain Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) Bit of an update.....  Castor rod brackets on and castor rods mounted    Decent amount of lock... can get a little more but don't think i'll bother..   went for a 2 hour train ride across sydney with $700 in my pocket tonight... OHHHHHHHHH the joy's of being licenceless. :bash:   I bought these :laff:  AE86 hubs, Ae86 AJPS rx7 caliper brackets, rebuilt FC calipers, EBC greenstuff pads, Brand new civic discs redrilled by AJPS... all bolts. Mmm got to love bolt on shit!!! Makes it so easy. :cool:    Goign to make a 3SGE BEAMS>AE86 bolt in conversion. It will include a Gearbox crossmember, Engine cross member, LEEN SXE10 shifter kit... Hopefully under a grand. Edited January 24, 2012 by Jordain Quote
kickn5k Posted January 24, 2012 Report Posted January 24, 2012 If only I could get one in without cutting my firewall and be able to engineer with a turbo. It would be epic!!! I'm very interested in hearing how it steers with this frontend, mainly if you get much bump steer. Massive issue on the low wishbone equipped early rollas. Stu. Quote
Jordain Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Posted January 24, 2012 Stu, Theres no bump steer. On full lock, On full compression the rack turns 2mm.. which is nothing and it goes Toe out which is a shitload better then toe in. I'm amazed at how well it turned out. I was thinking if I had to redo the position about two or three times i'd be happy but following Robs KE25 R&P conversion, doing a shitload of measurements myself and having a dad who is switched on when it comes so suspension set up it helps a lot. I will get a video of it tomorrow in action. Very very happy with it. :cool: 1 Quote
kickn5k Posted January 24, 2012 Report Posted January 24, 2012 It does look alot nicer than a 1X frontend. The angle of the lca and rack ends looks the same. Which also helps alot. Quote
Jordain Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Posted January 24, 2012 Well if this works, I plan on making a few more...... with K series mounts so people can buy a bolt in Ke10 rack and pinion conversion. Quote
CanadianKE17 Posted January 25, 2012 Report Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) Oh my. Are those aluminum calipers? Alright, aluminium? I predict unlimited 200-0 stops without fade hahaha Edited January 25, 2012 by CanadianKE17 Quote
Jordain Posted January 26, 2012 Author Report Posted January 26, 2012 Sure are!!! Alloy RX7 FC calipers.. soon to have the MAZDA milled off them hahaha :dance:  Here's an update...........   Recieved my $95 Delivered Alloy radiator   Cooked a Beams rocker cover...   Nah jokes just preheated it to about 50c then gave it a coat of wrinkly paint :cool:   Made a tab for the radiator.. yes it will be rubber mounted.   Chopped more of my car out :bash:   Worked from 5pm to 1:30am this morning making that one part.... and did a few other things.   Tacked in the drivers side   Welded it in.   Tadaaaa. I'm not sure if I like it or not. it looks to boxy/flat :fuzz:  Update later tonight :laff: Quote
Jordain Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Posted January 27, 2012 The pressing on the drivers side, I cut out of another KE10 I have... might weld it in. Get that factory look cranking :dance: Quote
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