CanadianKE17

Heya thats my drift car with ma61 Supras on it but keep in mind those welds around the fender are from me yanking it about 50-60mm wider on each side and welding in a strip in a form of terrible ghetto widebody. Highly unlikely that Supras will fit in stock fenders! Unless you get a narrowed rear end haha

Go Quinn!

You crazy. Are you gonna have to make a badass shifter linkage with it coming out that far back?

Be careful, that floor mat could cause unintended acceleration!

I do still have some travel... If you want hella flush without smashing the arch, 6k plus strategic bumpstop length would be decent.

6k will still be jawbreaking, the chassis and tires will do most of the flexing haha. I still have a touch of body roll with 6k in the front, 19mm sway bar, 3tc, and stiffened rear leaves. I couldn't imagine going heavier with a K motor.

If you kept it scabby on the outside, but clean and shiny inside, you'd be my hero.

Some Videos: Me, driving poorly. Lots of fail from both drivers, but I spun lol. Fooling around at a "Bro Day" There was only 5 cars at the track, and no layout chosen, so it was a kind of choose your route adventure, and as a result, not that smooth FAST FORWARD TO 4:30 http://player.vimeo.com/video/42304885

^^ Thanks :) Photo guy was not expecting that, he kind of swung his camera around just in time, didn't even look through the viewfinder haha. The flare job warped a lot on one side as I tried to do a bunch of small beads instead of tacks. The other side is quite straight, it probably wouldn't need that much filler.

BTW, it actually tucks a supra rim in the back now that its flared out, before there was no chance.

Hey, much time has passed. I haven't got much drift out of it this summer due to time and money probs, but some things have changed. First, the blocks on the rear leaves were giving me a lot of grief, so I stuck the leaves in a press and bent them straight. Now at rest they go right into negative arch, and I've had to cut out the tunnel and area above the diff for room. Also, flared the rears to fit wider tires. Then, at the track, I got super pissed at my rubbing front arches and cut them off. 100% improvement in spin recovery with the lack of tire rubbing, and wider rubber in the rear. The car drifts! But needs to go really really fast with the wider rear rubber! Thicker main leaf with reversed eyes: Made flat by going 50mm a time down the length squishing in the press: clearance problems: Solved: I flared the rear out by cutting along the trim line, and then around the lower perimeter and inner wheelarch, and welding it back together after kicking the crap out of it. NEVER LIFT

Epic car! I love scabrication that works ;)

Amazing! Especially the fabrication of the "beaver" panel. It's funny, I live in Canada, yet I've never heard that name! LOL. What tools did you use? Because I need to make a rear panel on my KE17 Sprinter, and I'm scared! Haha.

Dude, all you needed to do with the draw through setup was run a line from the intake to the crankcase with a checkvalve from a brake master cylinder line. On boost, crankcase is ~atmospheric. Let off the throttle, mega vacuum in intake + turbo, mega vacuum in crankcase, no oil gets sucked out :) Also, I've got lost in your thread... are you running a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to the blow through carb? You need to keep the fuel pressure going into the carb a few psi higher under all conditions or you'll get no fuel or wayy too much :)

Yeah, don't count on them having any sense of humor. I was driving around in my multi-colored rusty TE72 and a cop started chewing me out for having a shitty car while rolling beside me, then just drove off! Haha. The pedal mod looks very clean.

Meh I like my floor pedal. Pedal feel? I can feel my sidedrafts spitting back through the pedal hahaha

It looks like with your long runner manifold, the normal reclocking method won't work. You'll need to find a taller distributor. With the mikuni manifold or other short designs you can get away with cutting off the slot at the base, reclocking the position of the distributor body and shaft, and making a little clamping bracket instead of using the slot.

As much as I like the idea of carbs, it seems that by the time you've got enough electronics to run distributorless ignition and vvti, you're about 4 injectors away from running fuel injection.

Oh my. Are those aluminum calipers? Alright, aluminium? I predict unlimited 200-0 stops without fade hahaha

Being on the west coast we have the "mildest" weather in Canada, averages are like 0-10 in the winter up to 20-30 in the summer, with odd sub zero day and the odd day in the high 30s. It's very wet though, almost always raining except in those 3 months of summer.

The green is cool. It looks like aerospace primer!

Well, of KE10 footage, not much, but there are lots of little clips in all the Capital Drift videos. Heres an onboard lap, and the latest drift video that is entertaining as hell, and has a few KE10 appearances! Onboard lap CCD Halloween Drift

Here's the summer and fall in pictures! patina shot some themed cold air for the carbs A tribute to my friend Quinn's blog My link Window and heater core removal... not the greatest idea, considering we have 9 months of winter weather and 3 months of summer. Doh. onward ho!

Coreys tips for running an underpowered Corolla on a medium to small sized course. Run high pressure in the rear, and run a narrower track/skinnier tires in the rear, but not too much. Yeah, I know it looks dumb, but it's just necessary for long drifts in an underpowered car. Lengthen or find longer front control arms to get you angle before the tire hits the wheel-well or tension rod. This also gives you more camber. The sway bar may get in the way, but if you can run stiff enough springs, toss it. Obviously deal with the steering stops as necessary. Run wheels with decent offset in the front. 14x7 +0 for example. Run insane amounts of caster. This will make the steering much more responsive, especially necessary for cars with a steering box. Increased caster and wheel offset will help the self steer behaviour, so you can get the tail out and let the wheel spin on its own to counter. I find older harder tires the best for the rear, as the amount of grip doesn't really matter, it's how consistent it is. For example, Sumitomo htr200 are great drift tires because they have a new age performance tire tread pattern but a hard wearing compound that never really gets greasy. Talk to anybody who tries to grip drive with them, and you'll hear mediocre reviews. For leaf spring cars, NEVER RUN BLOCKS, de-arch the springs and/or reverse the eyes. Blocks are terrible, you're likely to get terrible wheel hop, or at least terrible axle wrap which will leave you running hard on the pinion snubber the entire time you're on the throttle, leading to unpredictable bouncy handling. In my KE10 I run a custom main leaf about 25% thicker than the stock one, flat with reversed eyes. Then, I de-arch the rest of the stock leaves flat to match, and make sure the clamps are nice and tight. This gives about 4-5inches of drop and very decent handling. If your car has rubber bushings between the axle perch and springs, get rid of them. I'm sure to get some disagreement here, but this is what works great for myself and the guys local to me. We spend a lot of time drifting Corollas at a beat up smaller oval+infield track.

Thanks guys! North America doesn't really "do" k series motors :) There are no aftermarket parts, nor racing series using them. We only got a few 3kcs and 4kcs, and with our steering box and brake master both on the same side as intake/exhaust, it makes them a real pain to deal with. 90% of Corollas here from 1970 to 1982 came with a 2tc or a 3tc. Unfortunately, we didn't get any 2tg or 3tgte cars either.