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Diy Exhaust Upgrade


Twinky

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The system should flow fairly well, I was going to go 2.25" but the falcodores that had those systems didn't have enough straight sections to scavenge.

It would have been a good hours work just to get a few decent usable pieces. Alot of people who go to u-pullit don't give a shit about other people, they just smash

shit and grab what they need not thinking "oh maybe someone else might want this. Pieces of shit. There was a walker exhause that would have fitted great but someone

used it as a pry bar and tore it at the seam, no rust, no buldge, no carbon, it was basically new. Anyhows life has become mutch more difficult now, where the secondaries bolt

up to the extractor flange one of the nuts is totally rounded. This means I have to take the manifolds off to get at it.... ;). A few more hours and the system should be great.

 

The only problem that I see with the under diff design is the fact that the diff drops heaps when I jack the car up. my suspension is so soft that it nearly takes the full extension

of the jack to get the wheel off the ground. Unless you have stiff as suspension the diff would fall on the exhaust as you jack the car up.

Does anyone else have that happen to them?? I have also noticed just how massive my drum brakes are. What was the standard size on a ke55??

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well its not the stiffness of the suspension, but the amount of "droop" that the suspension has, ie. the amount the wheels fall away from the car when the car is raised.

 

short stroke shockabsorbers take care of this. they will hold up the diff more, and not let the diff hit the exhaust.

 

i have an overdiff exhaust, and I'm fairly sure that when i hit a decent bump, my diff goes up and hits the exhaust. its even worse when theres someone sitting in the back!!

 

nice work on the exhaust though, should be good when its all done. and yeah T series drums are fairly chunky looking!

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I beleive you can actually run sidepipes if you seize the rear passengers windows shut. I can't remember who I was talking to at the time

I think it was ke70motorsport. You just have to diable the opening of that window.

is that true? What about up in QLD? if so my ke is getting a side pipe when it's turbo :yes2: i always thought it had to go past the last wind down window are not pass the rear bumper in QLD that is

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First exhaust we donewas a side pipe, but it used to get ripped off when running it onto the trailer ;)

 

Never had a issue with the diff hitting the exhaust. The suspension never seemed to drop that much, I was running standard rear shocks and modified leaf packs (2 leaves). Anyway, we used to jack it up via the diff as a trolley jack struggled to get under the side of the car. Also it was only held on with 2 of those rubber dohut exhaust mounts at the rear and a clamp at the front. Piece of piss to drop the whole exhasut off if needed.

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in qld you need to have it a certain amount past the last seal, like if you have a 2 door sedan you could put it out the side but if you have a 2 door hatch like me you can't cause if you open the hatch you can access the rest of the car where as with a 2 door sedan you can't if you open the boot.

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The exhaust outlet must extend at least 40mm beyond

the furthermost outboard or rearmost joint of the floor

pan that is not continuously welded or permanently

sealed which could permit direct access of exhaust

gases to the passenger compartment, but not beyond

the perimeter of the vehicle when viewed in plan.

• The exhaust outlet, if to the side of the vehicle, must

discharge to the right hand side of

the vehicle and downwards at an

angle to the horizontal of not less

than 15 degrees and not more than

45 degrees.

 

From the Queensland Government's Modifications Guide.pdf

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Looks great. Hope you were flowing inert gas inside the pipe while welding though, otherwise the weld won't penetrate and you can get issues with the welds cracking under thermal expansion.

 

Hence our use of an oxy set and coat hangers for filler rod :dance:

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Looks great. Hope you were flowing inert gas inside the pipe while welding though, otherwise the weld won't penetrate and you can get issues with the welds cracking under thermal expansion.

 

 

Thats why I made the joins one side smaller to give me a lip to properly hold on to, rather than butt-joints.

I gave the welds a good whack too when I finished them just to make sure they were strong enough.

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