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Hydro To Solids On A 5K Help Needed


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hey guys ive been reading other post on how to convert to solid lifters from hydro. now reason why i want to so this is because i want to put adjustable rockers on, eg 3k or 4k will this work? i was thinking of going holden red 202 lifters and 1200 push rods but what do i need to do to my cam as ive already got a big cam to suit the hydro. done it need to get re ground? or it doesnt?

 

 

can i get more ideas on how to do it and what other people have done and the most easy and wont cost much so i can get my mechanic to order parts and what to do thanks.

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hey guys ive been reading other post on how to convert to solid lifters from hydro. now reason why i want to so this is because i want to put adjustable rockers on, eg 3k or 4k will this work? i was thinking of going holden red 202 lifters and 1200 push rods but what do i need to do to my cam as ive already got a big cam to suit the hydro. done it need to get re ground? or it doesnt?

 

 

can i get more ideas on how to do it and what other people have done and the most easy and wont cost much so i can get my mechanic to order parts and what to do thanks.

 

toyota landcruiser 3f lifters but you'll need pushrods to suit. I've gone with the 202 lifters and datsun pushrods. The lifters set me back 90 doi and the pushrods I bought out of Japan for 135 doi including postage. Not easy to find in this baron wasteland.

And you will DEFINATELY need your cam reground. Solid cams are ground with ramps on the lobes, hydros are not. With out it you'll end up with an engine that sounds likt the 3801! Just ask Zoidberg...

Edited by GJM85
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  • 2 weeks later...

First of all, why? What is this fascination with ripping out hydro lifters?

If you plan to rev the motor hard the lifters pump up and hold the valves open or something like that.

 

The 3f lifter can be used with 3k push rods from other posts that I have read. But don't try buying them new they cost $87 each one.

 

The other option is to strip the lifter out and just use the shell, I don't know what push rods you would use.

 

I am in the process of building a tuff 5K with a huge cam and motor bike injection, I intend on getting the 202 lifter and Datsun A12 pushrods, if I get it together soon I will post how it’s done.

Edited by Crostek
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If you plan to rev the motor hard the lifters pump up and hold the valves open or something like that.

 

The 3f lifter can be used with 3k push rods from other posts that I have read. But don't try buying them new they cost $87 each one.

 

The other option is to strip the lifter out and just use the shell, I don't know what push rods you would use.

 

I am in the process of building a tuff 5K with a huge cam and motor bike injection, I intend on getting the 202 lifter and Datsun A12 pushrods, if I get it together soon I will post how it’s done.

 

Please do....

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If you plan to rev the motor hard the lifters pump up and hold the valves open or something like that.

 

Thank you for that insight.

 

I am in the process of building a tuff 5K with a huge cam..

 

I already built one. With hydros.

 

That's why I want to know why there is a fascination with Hydro lifters, both myself and coln72 have hard revving 5K's on hydros, mine's been running for 2 years as a daily, occasionally hitting high revs, with no trouble.

Edited by philbey
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Hi,

Anti pump up hydros can also be obtained for high revving motors. But These hydros usually are just made with large internal clearances letting oil "leak" out and not pump up. Also a stock hydro you have the push rod sitting down in it with pre-load. When you get a large cam and the lifter will now sit lower as the cam has the rear side ground down if you don't shave your rocker posts you will run less pre-load.

 

Less pre load will also stop pump up. My cam grinder said high revving hydros easy just run bugger all preload on worn lifters he said for fast dirty high revving hydro setup. This is why other probably get away with running high revving hydros.

 

But if your serious about revs etc. It isnt so much the hydro pumping up can be solved it is the weight. I got rid of hydros in my 5K as at excessive RPM adn with over 0.400" lift I ripped the bottom out of about 5 hydros in the motor.

 

Another reason I got rid of hydros is that there heavy more weight moving in the valve train. I got 3F lifters (also very heavy) lightened. side wall taken down to 1.5mm thick from about 4mm stock and top cut down nearly 10mm and the bottom of them re-faced thinner so there LIGHT....This is a reason a lot of race motors go solid. There light when moded hydros are heavy.

 

But then again I also lightened my rockers....lol I got serious but as stated above 3F lifters not cheap last quote I got from REPCO was $86 each. Toyota stock them for about $30 each. There not cheap.

 

Also 3F lifters need either JDM 4K push rods or 4k-c push rods and lightened and modified rocker arms to get clearance or they wont work. I made a thread on here once about fitting 3F lifters and 4K-C push rods have a search you'll find it.

 

Cameron

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Less pre load will also stop pump up. My cam grinder said high revving hydros easy just run bugger all preload on worn lifters he said for fast dirty high revving hydro setup. This is why other probably get away with running high revving hydros.

 

 

I put a lot of work in to check my lifters were set to the 40-60 thou preload on mine, it's actually a real pain in the arse to check it. I suspect the main reason mine don't seem to cause trouble is because they don't see long sustained revs like a race car.

 

Also, looking at the hydro lifters in my 5K they seem to have quite a lot of clearance anyway, i'd like to compare to some actual anti pumpup lifters.

 

Interesting about killing those hydro's, what exactly happened to them Cam? Did they just tear up the bottom faces?

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Guess I'll jump in here as I have been mentioned by Philbey.

 

Just how many revs do you want to pull???? My 5k was race only and would see 8000rpm (sometimes more, it would be off the tacho...) with the hydros. The lifter were not limiting the revs, I think the head/cam/carbs wern't capable of flowing enough air to pull many more revs than this. It was running a reground cam, Wade 168 from memory and I never had an issue with chewing out lifters.

 

Personally, I wouldnt bother changing to solids due to the amount of stuffing around involved getting everything set up properly in the first place and the ongoing maintanence involved with the solids. When I was running a 3k, keeping the solids adjusted was a pain.... But if you want to , go for it. Its your time and money. I'd rather spend both on something that will make the car measurably faster.

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^^^ What cyclinder head did you start with for this build?

 

From the pic looks like a -c style head with the larger flat areas above the exhaust ports they were cast with for air injection. These have crap exhaust ports that you need huge porting out of to make right. Also unless you have a 5k-c then then if I am seeing correctly this head will drop the compression ratio?

 

Jsut curious in your head choice can you enlightne us more?

 

Also plannign on up righting the motor? Who did your manifolds?

 

 

Cameron

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Well if all the cool kids are doing it I might have to as well :P

 

What's involved in setting up a reground or new hydro cam in a k motor? I hadn't actually heard of reground hydro cams until col mentioned it. I had always thought that was a solid only deal.

 

I'm assuming people know what's needed to setup a solid cam in a k (or any engine really) so to help sway others towards a hydraulic cam setup how's the setup differ? If it's as easy as everyone says I will just go hydro myself in my blown 5k.

 

Hope I'm not thread stealing!

 

JP

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The cam profile for a solid lifter vs hydro lifter setup is different, I should get my head around it properly before posting but I'm pretty sure the ramp rates are different among other things. Your right though evan, you can put a k cam in and k engine (not sure about 7k's though).

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